4.0 SOHC Timing Noise

[donalds]

FL1A for sure

 

[Ronjm]

Great thread guys i am looking at manual adjustment also for my front timing chain. Where in australia if possible would I buy 1 and what is the part number for this/ Thanks in advance.

 

[donalds]

Start at post#83 in this therad

 

[allmyEXes]

UPDATE- It has been a year to the day and 10,000 miles ago that I installed the manual tensioner bolt against the rear chain tensioner assy of the 4.0. All is still well.
Go to around post #86 to check out the install.

 

[donalds]

Sweetness
Such a great thread!

 

[allmyEXes]

Soon I will be back to working on the White '97 SOHC which had a left front timing chain guide failure however the right (rear) side of things is intact. I'm going to use the adjustable type on the RR head and was looking one up on ebay and was pleasantly surprised to find one for nearly $20 cheaper than last year. Here is a link.
New Manual Chain Tensioner & Gasket Timing Cam For 14-16 Polaris RZR 1000 XP & S | eBay
On a 1997 has anyone used one on the front left chain? I would consider it if I thought that with the engine fully assembled I could adjust it.

 

[410Fortune]

Thank you Polaris Rzr THANK YOU
I used to think, "ah crap the Polaris uses a Ford part"
now I think
"thank goodness the polaris used a Ford part!"
Because the aftermarket support for the Polaris engines we get cheaper manual chain tensioners!!

 

[sport trac jr.]

I changed the front TC tensioner on my late production '01 ST (Job 2 SOHC) and I did not have to remove my intake plenum (which is 1-piece on the Job 2 engine and only held on with 4 bolts). I think I removed my throttle body and the push-in-style temp sensor & sender and had plenty of room.

Koda....Are you saying on the front driver side tensioner you dont have to remove the therm housing and all that,
just the throttle body....on a 2001 4.0 SOHC
thanks....

 

[CDW6212R]

The tensioner will come out very very close to one of the temp sensors. Depending on what socket or wrench you use to loosen it, you might touch that sensor. Go slow and hope it will clear. But do not force it and push on that sensor much at all. That will break the seal of the sensor, and then the entire top of the T'stat housing will have to be replaced. The sensors typically will leak if they are ever loosened, an won't re-tighten. I got lucky the two times I R&R'd the tensioner on my 99.

 

[koda2000]

Koda....Are you saying on the front driver side tensioner you dont have to remove the therm housing and all that,
just the throttle body....on a 2001 4.0 SOHC
thanks....

IIRC I just needed to remove the throttle body and the top of the t-stat housing on my job 2 SOHC to replace the front tensioner. I might also have had to remove the temp sender and sensor, which are push-in clip style on the JOB 2.

 

[allmyEXes]

I see that you found @Brian Middleton 's original thread. I had just started learning about the 4.0 SOHC engine (in my blue '97). A year and a half later I installed the manual tensioner in my white one. I've learned quite a bit about these engines now. I just now listened to my wife start up the blue one that I put the tensioner in the right head 30,000 miles ago. It sounds the same as it does every morning.
I have been driving the white '97 for 800 miles now with the new left manual tensioner. So far so good!
IF you were performing another 4.0 SOHC preventative maintenance task, Installing an all aluminum thermostat housing, This would be a perfect time to install the LH manual tensioner!

 

[allmyEXes]

My blue '97 is well overdue an oil change but it still sounds good. I've been using Walmart high mileage 10w30. I want to install the 2nd manual tensioner in the left cylinder head but I need to get one on the way. I will do this while I am installing an all aluminum thermostat housing assembly with sensors. I need to get one of those that is currently "stateside" while they are still available.

 

[donalds]

Don't use the sensors that come with it
I learned

 

[donalds]

Don't use the sensors that come with it
I learned

Other than that I love that thing been gr8

 

[swshawaii]

@sport trac jr.

Had some luck here on my 2001 ExST 4.0L SOHC, not having to remove the IntakeManifold,
though did need to remove the ThrottleBody & relocate the left TempSensor on the relatively new Alum TStat Housing.
Modified a 27mm DeepSocket to make just enough clearance to get the left Tensioner Out+In,
along with resolving an oil leak due to an old seat scar under that tensioner.
Was tempted to try the Razor style nonHydraulic Tensioners, but chickened out, giving that more time to prove itself elsewhere.
Koda's a resident forum expert on this year\make\model 4.0L SOHC, but here's details on my TimingTensioner adventure

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/2001-ford-explorer-sporttrac-oilpressurized-timing-tensioners-replaced.488855

Hope this helps.
D

Recently shared my "experience" with Dillard replacing my front hydraulic tensioner last year. Thread damage in the head was caused by a deep well socket hitting the bottom of the intake when removing the tensioner. Loosened the intake for the added 1/4" clearance needed. Re-tapped and was extremely lucky the weakened threads held the 60 ft/lb. torque needed to seal the tensioner from leaks. If there is ANY contact with the socket and bottom of the intake I highly recommend slightly loosening the intake or using a modified a socket such as Dillard's.

 

[koda2000]

Steve, the 2 times I've dealt with the front tensioner on my 2001 Job 2 SOHC I used an SAE deep-well 1/2" drive impact socket (don't recall what size, but it fit very well, despite it's beefiness) and I had no problem with intake manifold interference. Obviously you experienced interference so your advice is something for someone doing this job to take into consideration.

Regarding the pic you included, maybe it's just the photo, but to my eye the tap looks like it is not starting straight. Maybe that's why you had to increase the torque to 60 FP to get it to stop leaking? When I installed by new tensioners this Spring I used new washers/gaskets and torqued them to the recommended 42 FP and had no leaks. 60 FP is the recommended torque spec if reusing old washers. Glad you were able to get the tensioner to seal. My advice to you would be to never touch that tensioner again.

 

[swshawaii]

Phil, After loosening the intake I threaded the tensioner with a socket by hand two thirds of the way in. Damaged threads were inside closest to the plastic guide. Started at 32 foot pounds and increased in 5 pound increments until the leaking stopped. Crush washer was new and perfectly centered. I will NEVER remove the tensioner again. Our private conversation is still there if you want to revisit. Glad it's finished and couldn't have done it without you. Thanks.

 

[Loren Smith]

WOW!! Some awesome conversation here on this tensioner topic! After reading all that (and with my engine sitting on the stand), I have to verify a couple things and ask a question.

1. I think the manual adjust tensioner is a great idea, but why hasn't Ford come out with this type of replacement, knowing they have a problem?

2. I am going to get a couple and try it. But I need to confirm the proposed method for install.
a. measure and document the travel on my old tensioners.
b. Adjust the new tensioner to this point and document the position of the adjustment bolt.
c. Back off the adjustment all the way and install the tensioner and torque the body to 35 ft-lbs.
d. Adjust the tensioner into the documented set-point. Then back it off a half turn or so. Then try it and adjust from there.

3. If this all works as planned, will I need to adjust them further as time goes on?

Great stuff guys! Thanks

 

[donalds]

You install like you said
But
You need to adjust by feel with the engine running
And
Imo you may need to adjust them every few years depending on your driving habits

 

[Loren Smith]

Thanks again. I've read so many responses, I'm not sure who did it but are you the guy who added a pre-oiler to his ST? If so, what pump did you use? My sone has an 02 ans he is interested in it.