410Fortune 96 AWD Ex - goes low range

I picked up my transfer case last night.
Two t cases were included in the deal, one is strictly for parts.

The t case I will be using in my 96 5.0L AWD explorer is a 2001 F-150 BW 4406 manual shift this makes me very happy. I will no longer have full time AWD, instead I will have 2wd, 4hi and 4 low, increased RWHP, better MPG, and less tire wear. Also a more capable truck off road for light wheeling (getting to the fishing spot, colorado winters, etc)


I have ALOT of research to do before I get started collecting more parts and modifying the t case so it can be installed...I am just beggining this conversion.
Once I get a better picture of everything that is needed I can post more.

I know I need to get the manual shifter linkage and driveshafts/driveshaft parts at the very least.

I will have to figure out how to make a speed sensor talk to my 96 computer from this case, I will have to make this sucker fit under my truck, and I will have to modify some driveshafts to work or the T case itself before I can bolt it in.

For now the pictures:

Mid 80-90's full size bronco T case (possibly use the driveshaft yokes, sensors, tailhousing, etc we will see):

The FSB t case tag:

And now the new baby, 2001 BW 4406 manual shift:

Oh my 4406 T case has 7 miles on it hahahaha and I bought it for likely less then Ford would pay BW for this case!! Shhhhh....dont tell anyone.

Anyone want to buy a 96 AWD t case, work perfect, approx 85K miles.

 

[kevettom]

AWD to 4X4 Switch

i had to buy my linkage. Damn JY's, why the hell do they throw em away.

I was just wondering why you can put a transfer case from a v/6 explorer of the same year in place of the AWD unit? Thanks.

 

[410Fortune]

Kevettom,

If I understand your question correctly, you cannot use the V6 T case behind the V8 transmission.
The bolt pattern and spline count on the output shaft are totally different. The v8 drivetrain uses a full size AOD style transmission, basically any t case that was used behind the 4r70w auto trans in the 4.6 & 5.4L trucks can be made to work, but the 4406 from the F-150 can be had with a manual shifter so you dont have to mess with wiring up a 4x4 switch and GEM module to control the 4x4 shift motor found on e t cases. Also the electric shift 4406 would require a 2 door fuel tank to make enough room for the shift motor to sit under your truck.

This manual t case inthe explorer is REALLY NICE, during the recent snow storms I just reach down and pull her into 4x4 effortlessly, then back into 2wd whenever I want. Having true 4x4 in a 4 door ex makes the AWD look stupid.

 

[5.0L96Exp]

410Fortune. I’m looking at the pics of the 2001 4406 you have and Im wonding why the stock 96 AWD front driveshaft wouldn’t work. It looks like the flange on the 4406 is the same as the flange on my 4404. Did you have the double cardan joint or the CV equipped 4404 front dreiveshaft. Take a look at http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145663&highlight=bw4404 I have the driveshaft at the bottom of the pic (by the foot). Will this work? What’s the deal with the single carden joint on the F150 vs the double carden on the Expo?

 

[410Fortune]

Update!

Truck was making an awful rotating noise on cold days, when I hit the brakes. Continued to get worse and worse, until I stopped driving it

Today was a bit warmer so I put the rear up on jack stand and took a look see

The driveshaft flage at the slip yoke was hitting the gas tank , I likely had 1/8" of clearance.
It looked as if the trans mount at the crossmember had slipped a little bit, thats what you get playing in the snow in low range. So I loosened up the gas tank mounts and the trans mount, jacked the t case up just a hair and pryed it back over away from the tank, then tightened the trans mount.
I then pryed the gas tank over as much as I could (maybe 1/16") and tightened its front mounting bolts down.
Last I removed the rear driveshaft and used a BFH to clear the gas tank just a bit, a nice softball sized dent and folded back the lip just a bit.
Re-installed the d shaft and now I have 1/2" all the way around.

I can get it to hit the tank with a pry bar (too much play in the factory trans mount) and the factory mount really looks like its taking a beating supporting that huge transfer case on the back, it is squashed down 100%. So I will be replacing it with a urethane unit and that should help give me even more clearance.

Other then the noise and the possability of an eventual gas tank leak everything else looks just like it did when I installed it and the t case works awesome, having real shift on the fly 4x4 has been a HUGE bonus in the Explorer this Colorado winter..

 

['97 V8]

Whoa, that was close. Its good to hear all is well with your case. My mom had me worried as she was saying that after my dad put it in 4hi, that when she drives it, it feels different. I had my sister take pics of the shifter and all is well. She is still not used to the resistance of the 33's.

 

[410Fortune]

actually suprisingly it hardly made any marks on the tank and it had been making noise for 2-3 weeks hahaha

It sounded like a e brake cable came loose and was rubbing on the tire, I am guessing this is because the tank just amplified the sound.

 

[Hokie]

410Fortune. I’m looking at the pics of the 2001 4406 you have and Im wonding why the stock 96 AWD front driveshaft wouldn’t work. It looks like the flange on the 4406 is the same as the flange on my 4404. Did you have the double cardan joint or the CV equipped 4404. Take a look at http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145663&highlight=bw4404 I have the driveshaft at the bottom of the pic (by the foot). Will this work? What’s the deal with the single carden joint on the F150 vs the double carden on the Expo?

410.. any opinions? I am wondering the same questions

I have a spare rear DS, would it be cheaper to just modify it or buy the Expedition one?

 

[5.0L96Exp]

Hokie. In addition to the front driveshaft I was also wondering about the rear driveshaft. F150's are not so hard to find but no junk yards have Expeditions. Is there any reason why an F150 rear driveshaft, cut and welded to fit wouldnt work. Provided it is long enough to be shortened and it will mate with the 8.8". Plus I would get to use my Miller Dynasty200DX TIG.....ohhh yaaa rubbing it in...

 

['97 V8]

the reason they dont fit, is becuase the mounting holes are diffeent. Also it would be cheaper to buy a ds then cut and measure then get it balanced etc.

 

[5.0L96Exp]

the reason they dont fit, is becuase the mounting holes are diffeent. Also it would be cheaper to buy a ds then cut and measure then get it balanced etc.

So far I'm looking at about 300 for an expedition Dshaft by the time it is shipped.. DANG expensive.

How about the front Dshaft 97 V8. Did you go the f150 route or could you have used a stock double cardan style explorer driveshaft. With the exeption of the dable cardan vs single cardan they look the same from the images I have seen. Of course nothing beats seeing them side by side.

 

['97 V8]

wow your getting hosed on that rear driveshaft. For the front i used an f-150. I compared the two and saw that i was unable to use the d-carden shaft(bummer). As i said previously, the flange holes are different.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Update!
The driveshaft flage at the slip yoke was hitting the gas tank , I likely had 1/8" of clearance.

That's why my truck has a 17gal tank...

 

[Hokie]

That's why my truck has a 17gal tank...

Hmm, i thought the manual shift's didn't need the 17 gal tank?

Have other people had the same problems as 410?

 

[5.0L96Exp]

4406 shopping list

Edit #1 - Added more parts
Ya I know Im getting hosed. My jaw nearly hit the floor when I heard the quote. This is why Im looking into every alternative. Even the transfer cases seem unreasonble. So far I have seen between 700-1000Cdn for an Xfer case with around 120000km on it. For that much money I might as well buy an F150 at auction and get the Xfer case, 4R70W and an engine to part out on Ebay plus 300 bucks for the scrap steel.

To summarize:
FRONT DRIVESHAFT:
1. Stock explorer double cardan will not mate with 4406. The flange holes are different. This may/maynot be corectable with a homebrew 1/2' adapter plate.
2. Stock explorer cup CV will not mate with 4406. Who wants the failure prone CV anyhow.
3. 1997-2003 F150 front driveshaft bolts right up.
4. 1997-2003 Expedition/Navigator 4x4 front driveshaft. Either the 4.6 or the 5.4L should bolt right up.
5. U-joint up front

TRANFSER CASE:
1. 1997-2003 F150 BW4406. There are four versions I know of:
a) Electric w/Torque on Demand, front & rear sensor, with speedo hole
b) Electric w/Torque on Demand, front & rear sensor hole, no speedo hole
c) Electric w/o Torque on Demand, with speedo hole
d) Manual w/o Torque on Demand, with speedo hole, shift on fly
2. Transfer Case Speed Sensor (TCSS) -> Just in case I cant find VSS tailhousing. Will make it work with some mad science.
3. TCSS wire harness connector
4. Transfer Case Clutch wire harness connector
5. Transfer Case Shift Indicator wire harness connector
some part numbers
Manual XL34-7A195-AB
Manual XL34-7A195-AC
Electric XL34-7A195-BC
from what I have read there is not difference between the AB and AC. Please correct me if I am wrong. This is the big ticket item and I want to ensure I dont get the wrong one.

5. 96-97 4406 Tailhousing to fit gear driven VSS

I will be looking for a manual with the speedo hole (TCSS or VSS) and bonus if it has the correct tailhousing (97-98 for VSS). All the manuals shift on the fly.

REAR DRIVESHAFT:
1. 1997-2003 Expedition/Navigator 4x4 rear driveshaft. Either the 4.6 or the 5.4L will bolt right in.
2. 1997-2003 F150 rear driveshaft. May require extensive modifications.

SHIFT LINKAGE:
1. Lower lever (part that bolts to the transmission) F65Z7210BC
2. Upper lever (the rod in the cab) F65Z7210AB
3. Rubber boot F75Z7277AA
4. Linkage (piece that connects to the t/c) XL3Z7B051AA

TRANSMISSION MOUNT:
1. New Urethane mount to help support the added weight of the 4406.

Anything else I should keep my eyes open for...

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Hmm, i thought the manual shift's didn't need the 17 gal tank?

Have other people had the same problems as 410?

Both the manual and electric shift cases have the same slip yoke and take the same driveshaft. The 17gal gas tank helps on clearance on the side of the tank (the slip yoke, driveshaft) and infront of the tank (shift motor). The shift motor clearance is required, the driveshaft clearance is prudent.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

TRANSMISSION MOUNT:
1. New Urethane mount to help support the added weight of the 4406.

Where would one find this aftermarket mount?

 

['97 V8]

That's why my truck has a 17gal tank...

hmm, i have lots of clearence between my gas tank and the case. No hammering or anything(aside from modifying the mount which was nothing) However for those going electric, it looks like your shifter would rub against the gas tank mount.
As for the urathane mounts, i would think that it s a good idea. My case moves more than i would like and the bushing does have 160k on it.

 

[5.0L96Exp]

Where would one find this aftermarket mount?

Not sure but Ill let you know if I find one. Probably be cheaper to cast my own. Maybe this time I will use an industrial 2 part urethane instead of PLPremium (granted the PLPremium motor mounts did last 3 years and only cost me $5 - plus they added 10Hp/mount ).

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Hmm, i thought the manual shift's didn't need the 17 gal tank?

Have other people had the same problems as 410?

You don't have to have the 17 gal tank to do the manual shift. I guess it depends on the truck. On mine with the stock tank, the yoke rubbed the plastic shell over my metal tank, I cut away a 4" square piece and I have about 1" between the yoke and tank. There is a picture of what I cut out in my write up.

 

[AMMO_HOOAH]

I've got great clearance between the tank and shaft too, but I did have a major pain getting the strap back on maybe my tank's slide to the outside some. Definitely let everyone know if you find an aftermarket poly tranny mount. My original one split in half, and broke the metal strap too. I'm sure that the poly would hold the whole unit a little better.