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5.0 lean codes a mile or so after restarting... otherwise fine!

Discussion in 'Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers' started by Ol' Mountaineer, June 26, 2019.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. CDW6212R

    CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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  3. fast_dave

    fast_dave Active Member

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    @Ol' Mountaineer

    Your fuel pressure should not drop that quickly.

    That sounds like:

    A) Leaking injector(s)

    B) Faulty Check Valve in Fuel Pump

    C) Faulty Fuel Pressure Regulator (@Dono says that's part of your Fuel Pump Assembly - Post 16 of this thread).

    You'll have to test and rule out the variables.

    You can eliminate B & C by purchasing a COMPLETE Fuel Pump Assembly (Pic 1, Post 15) ass opposed to JUST a Fuel Pump (Pic 2, Post 15).

    Rock Auto LINK: 2000 MERCURY MOUNTAINEER 5.0L V8 Fuel Pump & Housing Assembly | RockAuto

    5% Discount Code: D920117E695C01
    Expires: July 23, 2019

    Please enter this code in the ‘How Did You Hear about Us’ box to receive the discount. Please enter ONLY the discount code, no other...


    TYC is one of my go to brands I've had great service with, and I have a TYC fuel pump in my Explorer. Rock Auto sells the entire line of TYC parts. They're a Tier 1 OEM Supplier for Navistar, Daimler, Ford, Suzuki, Jaguar and Harley-Davidson, and are now branching out into the aftermarket.

    YMMV & Hope that helps!
     
    Last edited: June 29, 2019
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  4. 410Fortune

    410Fortune Firewood Season Staff Member Moderator

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    good info fellas!!
    get this thing back on the road........
    long live the 302!!!
     
  5. Ol' Mountaineer

    Ol' Mountaineer New Member

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    I'll be getting a Rock Auto magnet for my collection Tuesday, along with a complete TYC unit. Compared to the prices at the local auto parts shops (Motorcraft unit $550!) Rock Auto/TYC unit even with the extra for expedited shipping was best price. Got a full tank, on a gravel driveway with a slight incline, so got to work with a punch and chisel after scrutinizing the "make yer own access hatch" threads. Easily perforated around, then chiselled between perforations. A couple hours. Think she'll come out easily? Will find out soon.

    Pic shows end of day results. Made the hole large enough for easy access. The unit is a bit rearward and towards the passenger side. That's a 4 door 2000 Mountaineer, folks.

    gashole.jpg
     
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  6. Ol' Mountaineer

    Ol' Mountaineer New Member

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    Oh, btw, that moisture isn't leaking gas! I blew the area clean with air and ran a wet rag around as well.
     
  7. 410Fortune

    410Fortune Firewood Season Staff Member Moderator

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    well done!!!! They should have had a panel here in that shape from the factory!

    Spray that fuel line fitting with PB blaster now...let it soak
    Use air in the fitting also to get any sand out before trying to release with the tool.
     
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  8. Ol' Mountaineer

    Ol' Mountaineer New Member

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    Righto, 410! I'm posting some more photos because I found this hatch modification so enjoyable, and worthwhile, and want to encourage others to go for it. I know there's threads on this mod elsewhere, but this procedure is part of my "lean codes" story and others searching this same problem may be led here and will find this resolution useful.

    Everything is ready for the pump's arrival tomorrow. Made a hatch cover (using snips on some same gauge steel from my salvage shelf), drilled screw holes, test fit the cover and formed it around the folds a bit with a hammer. The 5/16" nuts are loosened on the pump lid. Should take 5 minutes to finish. So much easier than emptying and dropping the tank (a sweaty, dangerous and ugly job under the vehicle), and easy access for next time! And, no longer jealous of the wife's Sentra's under seat fuel pump hatch!

    Here's some tips:
    • park with windows, rear hatch window and back doors open to catch the breeze, move front seats forward.
    • unbolt and remove rear seat behind driver, unbolt front legs only for passenger side, hold passenger side seat back with bungie cord (gives you plenty of room)
    • use a hammer and center punch holes to make an outline of desired hatch (see photos to determine area)... mine's about 10" wide and goes about 2" up the back slope. Then use a chisel to connect the holes. When done, I hammered the edges to smooth them somewhat. Do not use tools which make sparks (grinders, rotary tools, etc.)!
    • once fuel pump assembly lid and top of tank is exposed, blow off entire area with air, removing anything that might fall into open tank
    • pull up and disconnect electrical connector that may lie a bit down the driver's side of tank, and tie a cord around female end so you won't be fishing for it later.
    • the other connector is a bit back and to the passenger side... a little harder to get to... but use a long regular screwdriver to press the lock tab, then use to pry male from female end.
    • ensure pressure in fuel lines has been released... (mine had none, that's how I got involved in the first place!)
    • blast fuel line connection with air, then PB Blaster (let it sit a little), then more air
    • holding a fuel line tool (get one, they're cheap) in place, rock the female end back and forth with a locking pliers as you pull it off. Don't lock on too tight and crush your fitting.

    fuelplug.jpg

    fuelline.jpg

    hatch.jpg

    hatch1.jpg
     
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  9. CDW6212R

    CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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    Seal the gap between the cover panel and the floor, with Ultra Black RTV. That will seal it strongly until you need to open it up again.
     
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  10. 410Fortune

    410Fortune Firewood Season Staff Member Moderator

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    and coat the edges of the exposed metal with something to slow down the rust, grease, paint, primer, rust fighting spray paint, something!
    I LOVE the access panel in my BII
     
  11. Ol' Mountaineer

    Ol' Mountaineer New Member

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    Ok guys, it's in! Had to saw off just a little more metal near the center seat mount with a hacksaw, but other than that it was a snap. Pressure back up to normal levels. Still getting higher than expected short term fuel trim on bank 1 at idle (18-24 @ 750rpm), but that lean condition straightens out by 1100rpm. Running some Techron through her now. All in all, problem solved!

    Thank you all for your wisdom (and patience!).
     
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  12. crunchie_frog

    crunchie_frog Active Member

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    These things are tanks, if it isn't the fuel pump, its the plugs or wires! Good call on the fuel pump!
     
  13. Ol' Mountaineer

    Ol' Mountaineer New Member

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    Todays update: Autopsy of old fuel pump shows the shop just replaced the motor last time around, not the whole unit. An inside connector was cracked and burnt (!) looking.

    Pressure in the rail first thing in am low, after a few key turns: 58, stays up while motor running, key off and it drops to 50 within a few minutes, to 40 in 20 minutes. Not completely out of the woods yet... fuel trims look better, a little higher on bank 1, getting flashing CEL every few miles and cylinder #3 is misfiring... brand new platinum plugs and wires all around.

    I'm concerned because there's a manifold leak hidden in the rear of the exhaust tube for cylinder 3. My buddy says "don't worry, you can drive forever like that". Can I? Sure makes a racket when I stick my homemade stethescope near it.
     
  14. fast_dave

    fast_dave Active Member

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    Throwing in my 02 here. Leaking fuel injector, bank 1 due to quick drop in fuel pressure and high fuel trim value. YMMV!
     
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  15. CDW6212R

    CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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    Yeah, something is still wrong with the fuel pressure. It should come up to 60-65psi in a second or so, immediately when the engine starts, 58psi is getting low.

    What is the running pressure, ignore the engine off pressure for now? It should not be under 60psi running, at any time or rpm. That's what the PCM is designed for, that determines the air/fuel ratio.
     
  16. 410Fortune

    410Fortune Firewood Season Staff Member Moderator

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    also what gauge are you using
    Leaky injector(s) is quite possible @fast_dave may have nailed it
     
  17. Ol' Mountaineer

    Ol' Mountaineer New Member

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    @CDW6212R

    58 running pressure. I don't suppose the Techron will be fixing this one.
     
  18. Ol' Mountaineer

    Ol' Mountaineer New Member

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    @410Fortune

    I'm using the Actron Fuel Pressure Tester kit with the bleed hose from Advance Auto
     
  19. CDW6212R

    CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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    It's possible that the gauge is inaccurate a little, but more likely there's a leak of pressure through the injectors. If it was just a new pump installed, we'd be pointing to the rubber hoses in the tank, or the FPR there. But a whole new assembly should be working right.
     
  20. Ol' Mountaineer

    Ol' Mountaineer New Member

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    Gonna jump ahead here to speed things up...

    Is the simplest test for injector leakage removing the fuel assembly with injectors attached, placing over a pan with paper towels and repressurizing? I'd think that would show which injector(s) the leaky bastard.
     
  21. Ol' Mountaineer

    Ol' Mountaineer New Member

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    That should be "fuel rail assembly", just to be clear.
     

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