5R55W Fluid Fill

[BrooklynBay]

I see that your gasket has 16 holes for pan bolts.

 

[daveleeander]

Yes it does. re-usable gasket too.

Dave

 

[borland]

My 2002XLT has no factory fill port, apparently it was never drilled out and taped to install the plug shown. Had they installed a plug, it still wouldn't be accessable due to the exhaust piping routing. So the only way to fill is through the drain plug.

Here's how I did the refill:

At pan drain plug, Remove inner plug using T-30 wrench (counter hold drain plug with 22mm wrench). Install temporary fill brass hose barb (1/8” NPT x ¼” hose). Install hand pump (valvoline fluid lubricant pump, fits most standard quart bottles, about $7 at Kragen Auto) and suitable pinch clamp.

Click photo to see a larger version:

Remove pinch clamp, and refill with new Mercor V. Start by adding with 5 qts. Without disconnecting the pump, switch between fresh quart bottles.

Reconnect battery (if doing the solenoid pack replacement: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=164055 ). Run engine for a 30 seconds.

Add remainder ATF. Install pinch clamp, remove pump.

Restart engine and cycle tranny between reverse and drive gears. Let engine idle in "Park" and remove pinch clamp to drain excess fluids. Excess should flow until a very small stream or drip is observed.

Add more fluid if necessary, but install pinch clamp before shutting off engine.

With engine still running, reinstall inner plug. Tighten inner plug to 89 in-lbs.

Test drive.

 

[04 explorer 4.6]

Sorry if i'm not doing this right still new. I am wanting to change oil in my 04 explorer has the 4.6 motor 4x4. So what you guys are saying is that take the plug out of the bottom and let drain. Then put the plug back in and take out the allen screw out of the middle of that drain plug. Then to put oil back in you would take out the plug in the side of the transmission. At the bottom you would watch for the oil to run out where you would have tooking out the allen screw (plug). Is all this correct? I have about 33000 miles on the clock is that when you guys change oil? Also I have the 5r55w correct?

 

[04 explorer 4.6]

I guess I should check to see what I have first before I open my mouth. Just crawled out from underneath it. Looks like I have the 5r55w and I dont have the fill plug looks like I will have to fill from the bottom.

 

[BrooklynBay]

This link has additional information about various types of fluids, and the kinds of transmissions without dipsticks: http://www.aa1car.com/library/atf.htm

 

[BrooklynBay]

This is a reprint of that article:

Automatic Transmission Fluid.

By Larry Carley C2006

Watch out for "pink stink," the burned odor that indicates trouble inside an automatic transmission.

The next time you check the fluid level in an automatic, sniff the fluid on the end of the dip stick. If it smells like burned toast and/or has a discolored brown appearance, the fluid has cooked itself and is no longer capable of providing proper lubrication to the transmission. If you're lucky, you may have caught the problem before serious damage has been done -- but more often than not by the time the fried fluid is discovered, the transmission is also toast.

Compared to motor oil, ATF has live pretty easy. There's no soot, gasoline or condensation from combustion blowby to contaminate the fluid. The only physical contaminants the fluid must deal with are particles that wear off the friction plates, gears and bearings inside the transmission. Most transmissions have some type of internal filter to keep the fluid clean. Some do a pretty good job, but others don't. Most Asian transmissions only have a plastic or metal strainer that can only trap the larger pieces of debris. The rest circulates with the fluid and accelerates wear. Changing the fluid is the only way to get rid of these contaminants.

Heat is the main concern for ATF. Automatic transmissions create a lot of friction, and friction produces heat. The fluid is constantly churning inside the torque converter and being pumped through metering orifices and hydraulic circuits. Every time the transmission shifts gears, the clutch packs generate even more heat that must be carried away by the fluid. The greater the load on the transmission, the more heat it generates and the hotter the fluid gets.

Most ATF can withstand normal operating temperatures of around 200 degrees F for tens of thousands of miles. But if the temperature of the fluid rises above 220 degrees F the fluid starts to break down quickly. Above 300 degrees, fluid life is measured in hundreds, not thousands of miles. And above 400 degrees, the fluid can self-destruct in 20 to 30 minutes!

ATF contains ingredients to improve its oxidation stability as well as other additives to reduce foaming and inhibit corrosion. Over time, the protective additives can also break down causing the fluid's lubrication properties and viscosity to change for the worse. That's why fluid breakdown is the leading cause of transmission operating problems and failure. Most experts still recommend changing the fluid and filter every 2 to 3 years or 24,000 to 36,000 miles -- or once a year or every 15,000 miles if a vehicle is used for towing or other severe service use.

FLUID CHECKS.

The first thing to check is the fluid level. For an automatic transmission to function normally, the fluid level must be between the "full" and "add" marks on the dipstick. If the fluid level is low, the transmission may slip or engage slowly. If the level is too high, the fluid can become mixed with air (aerated) causing shifting problems, slippage and noise.

Check the level when the transmission is hot. On most vehicles this is done with the engine idling and the transmission in Park. Moving the gear selector through each gear position prior to checking the level will help assure an accurate reading.

Under normal driving conditions, a transmission should not use any fluid. A low level, therefore, usually indicates a leak. A visual inspection of the pan gasket and driveshaft seals will tell you where the fluid is going.

Next, check for fluid oxidation. The sniff test is a good one, but a "blotter test' is even better. Put a few drops of ATF on a clean paper towel. Wait 30 seconds, then examine the spot. If the fluid has spread out and is pink, red or even light brown in color, the fluid is in satisfactory condition. But if the spot hasn't spread out and is dark brown in color, the ATF is oxidized and should be changed.

If the fluid has a milky brown appearance, it indicates coolant contamination. There is probably a leak in the ATF oil cooler inside the radiator that is allowing coolant to mix with the ATF. This is bad news, and needs to be repaired immediately.

If the fluid is full of bubbles or is foamy, the transmission is probably overfilled with ATF. Other causes include using the wrong type of ATF or a plugged transmission vent.

CHANGING ATF.

The "old fashioned" way to change ATF is to drop the pan, drain the transmission, replace the filter, reinstall the pan, and refill with fresh ATF. Though better than nothing, this approach can leave up to two-thirds of the ATF trapped inside the torque converter (unless the converter has a drain plug, which few do).

A better approach is to use equipment that either attaches to the ATF oil cooler lines or the filler tube to exchange new fluid for old. This approach will replace all of the old fluid. The filter should be changed to get rid of trapped contaminants, because a plugged filter can cause the same kind of problems as a low fluid level or low line pressure.

Always use the type of ATF specified by the vehicle manufacturer. If you don't know, refer to the owners manual or a reference chart. The type of ATF may be specified on the transmission dipstick.

TRANSMISSION FLUIDS.

Over the years, there have been a confusing array of different ATF types, and specifications. Make sure the replacement fluid meets or exceeds all OEM requirements. Using the wrong type of fluid may cause transmission problems, and damage.

Type F -- Introduced by Ford in 1967 for their automatics. Also used by Toyota.

Type CJ -- Special Ford fluid for C6 transmissions. Similar to Dexron II. Must not be used in automatics that require Type F.

Type H -- Another limited Ford spec that differs from both Dexron and Type F. Can be replaced with Mercon.

Mercon -- Ford fluid introduced in 1987, very similar to Dexron II. Okay for all earlier Fords except those that require Type F.

Mercon V -- Ford's newest type, introduced in 1997 for Ranger, Explorer V6 and Aerostar, and 1998 & up Windstar, Taurus/Sable and Continental. Must not be used in 1997 or earlier Fords.

Dexron -- General Motors original ATF for automatics.

Dexron II -- Improved GM formula with better viscosity control and additional oxidation inhibitors. Can be used in place of Dexron.

Dexron IIE -- GM fluid for electronic transmissions.

Dexron III -- Replaces Dexron IIE and adds improved oxidation and corrosion control in GM electronic automatics.

Dexron III (H) – Improved version of Dexron III released in 2003.

Dexron III/Saturn -- A special fluid spec for Saturns.

Dexron-VI – For 2006 GM Hydra-Matic 6L80 6-speed rear-wheel-drive transmissions, can also be used in earlier transmissions that require Dexron III and III(H).

Chrysler 7176 -- For Chrysler FWD transaxles.

Chrysler 7176D (ATF+2) -- Adds improved cold temperature flow and oxidation resistance. Introduced 1997.

Chrysler 7176E (ATF+3) -- Adds improved shear stability and uses a higher quality base oil. Required for four-speed automatics (do NOT use Dexron or Mercon as a substitute).

Chrysler ATF+4 (ATE)– Introduced in 1998, ATF+4 is synthetic and replaces the previous ATF+3 fluid. Used primarily for 2000 and 2001 vehicles, it can also be used in earlier Chrysler transmissions (except 1999 and older minivans with 41TE/AE transmission). ATF+3 should continue to be used for 1999 and earlier minivans because of the potential for torque converter shudder during break in.

NOTE:Chrysler ATF+4 Must always be used in vehicles that were originally filled with ATF+4. The red dye used in ATF+4 is not permanent. As the fluid ages it may become darker or appear brown in color. ATF+4 also has a unique odor that may change with age. Therefore, do not relay on the color and odor of ATF+4 to determine if the fluid needs to be changed. Follow the OEM recommended service interval.

Chrysler ATF+5 for 2002 and newer models.

IMPORT APPLICATIONS:

BMW LT7114l or LA2634 -- Special forumla for BMW transmissions.

Genuine Honda ZL ATF -- Special ATF for Honda automatics (except CVT applications).

Mitsubishi Diamond SP-II & SP-Ill -- Special formula ATFs for Mitsubishi transmissions.

Nissan J-Matic --– Special forumla for Nissan transmissions.

Toyota Type T, T-III & T-IV -- Special formula ATFs for Toyota and Lexus transmissions.

NOTE: There are a number of aftermarket synthetic ATF fluids that claim to meet numerous OEM requirements. Refer to the product label for approved applications.

Automatics with No Dipsticks

According to the automobile manufacturer’s research, a certain percentage of automatic transmission failures are caused by over-filling and/or using the incorrect transmission fluid. It is important to remember to NEVER over-fill the transmission assembly and to ALWAYS use the recommended transmission fluid. To discourage over-filling, some vehicle manufacturers have eliminated the dipstick on the transmission. Unfortunately, this also makes it hard to tell if the fluid level is low.

On automatic transmissions that do not have a dipstick to check the fluid level or add fluid, a fill plug is usually located on the left side or right side of the transmission. On some, there may be a drain plug on the bottom of the transmission.

To check the fluid level, the transmission must be warm, and the vehicle must be parked on a level surface or raised on a lift. Jacking up the front wheels will tilt the vehicle, and give an innaccurate indication of the fluid level. Therefore, all FOUR wheels must be raised off the ground and the vehicle must be properly supported by four jack stands. NEVER crawl under a vehicle unless it is safely supported by jack stands.

When the fill plug is removed, some fluid should dribble out of the hole if the fluid is at the proper level (flush with the bottom of the fill plug hole). If no fluid comes out, add fluid to bring it up to the level of the hole.

Below are some of the automatic transmissions that do not have a dipstick:

• 5-SPEED 2004-UP ACURA TL, RL, RSX
• 5L40/5L50E 2004-05 CADILLAC CATERA
• AISIN 81-40LE 2004-05 CHEVROLET AVEO
• 4T40/45E 1997-UP CHEVROLET CAVALIER, COBALT
• 42RLE 2005-UP CHRYSLER 300 3.5L 2WD
• NAG-1 2005-UP CHRYSLER 300 3.5L AWD
• AF33 2005-UP CHEVROLET EQUINOX
• 5R55N/S/W 2005-UP FORD CARS
• AISIN RNJ 1998-05 ISUZU NPR DIESEL
• ZF-6SHP-26 2005-UP LINCOLN NAVIGATOR 5.4L
• 5F31J 2004 MAZDA MPV W/5SPD
• N4AEL 2004 MAZDA MIATA
• AF23 2004-05 SATURN ION
• 4/5-Speed 2004-05 SATURN VUE

 

[Opera House]

I just did a drain and fill on a 5R55W. I used a threaded nylon fitting and a 1/4hp gear type electric transfer pump. It was really fast, just stuck a hose in each bottle and it sucked every last last drop out of the bottle. I never stayed so clean doing a transmission. This was basically just a test run since I will doing about 3 more times.

There is one thing that concerns me. I drained almost exactly 2 quarts out of the pan which is much less than I expected. Is that about normal or was I down a bunch? Only had the vehicle a week and don't have any history of leaks. I put three quarts back in and haven't run it up to temperature to check level yet.

UPDATE
I checked the level today and then did a pan drop. As best I could measure, just draining the pan from the fill plug removes a little less than 2 3/4 quarts. Dropping the pan and removing the filter removes a maximum of about 3 1/2 quarts from the transmission. If the filter is not removed this amount is about 1/4 quart less. It appears this filter has an internal check valve which will not let fluid drain back and holds this in the filter and valve body. Reused existing gasket. The fill port is quite high on the pan and even the threaded part of the pan has a high tube section. This all appears intentional as if the gasket of the fill tube leaked, there would still be enough fluid in the pan to operate the transmission.

 

[BrooklynBay]

It might have been a quart low. You removed 2 quarts, and refilled it with 3 quarts.

 

[F14CRAZY]

If I go ahead and drop the pan and refill the 2-3 quarts that are lost, can I remove the cooler return line, run the engine for a moment to pump out maybe a quart, and refill? I'd like to get all the old oil out of the torque converter and all. Have done this with GM transaxles with success, but they have dipsticks

 

[Glacier991]

It IS good to have you back posting again OperaHouse. Maybe you might on one of your future drain and fills photo what you are using and post it here ?

 

[Opera House]

Check, double check......
The last drain out I drained out 2 3/4 quarts and added back 3 quarts without checking level. Figured an extra 1/4 quart wouldn't hurt and I would be adding a transmission cooler the next day. Prior to installing the transmission cooler I pulled the drain plug, 1 3/4 quart came out. Refilled with another 3 quarts, brought up to temperature and had to add another 1/2 quart. Cooler couldn't hold that much! Still waiting for a time that this becomes stable. I expect a few more plug pulls before I get the fluid clean. It might be a good idea for those doing this the first time to recheck. I have a great place to add fluid with a driveway that slopes down about 25%. Jack up the front to level and you have plenty of room to crawl under.

 

[E.B. Cornburner]

So if I'm understanding this correctly, it only takes about 3 quarts to do a complete pan drop/filter change/refill on one of these trannies?

That seems like it's awfully little fluid. Especially for a Ford...I remember the older E4OD and similar took somewhere in the neighborhood of 7-9 quarts for a pan drop/refill.

 

[A1C_Snowman]

Incase anyone is looking for the tool, you can order it here.
http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=322

 

[mrnextel]

I can’t believe what everyone is going through to change Trans fluid, granted the no dipstick system adopted by almost all manufactures is a little goofy.

Thankfully I have a reputable Trans shop locally that is very detail oriented $89 pan gasket, filter, and fluid change with mercV.

Transfer case drain and fill $59.

I honestly can’t see how getting your hands dirty is even worth it.

My 2 cents

Bleeding food blue
MrNextel

 

[E.B. Cornburner]

Just did mine today...Initial fill took 3 quarts, then once started and shifted thru the gears, another ~3 quarts was needed to top it off till a steady stream came out of the fill tool.

All in all, not a hard job to do, although I wouldn't want to do one without a hoist.

Big difference in shift quality...Shifts like liquid silk now!

 

[Glacier991]

In the newer transmissions, fluid quality is a critical component.

 

[CDW6212R]

...
Transfer case drain and fill $59.

I honestly can’t see how getting your hands dirty is even worth it. ...l

I can do a transfer case in about five minutes, and the fluid cost is under $9, so I think that $50 for five minutes of my time is very well worth it.

That's my two cents.

 

[EasyRhino]

Just an update. Yesterday I pulled the transmission drain plug (the whole plug, not just the center screw) when the tranny was at full operating temperature and let it drain overnight.

When I got up this morning, fluid was still dripping out after over 12 hours of draining.

Then I dropped the pan and got out the quart or so that sits in the pan below the drain plug boss. Then I removed the old filter for replacement and got out more fluid (think there must be a check valve in the filter line (as stated above)).

All of the old fluid was drained to a catch pan which I then measured prior to disposal. A total of 7 quarts was removed. Given that that is roughly 1/2 of the total fluid capacity of the transmission, I am pretty pleased to get that much out.

Also, FWIW, my fluid had been in about 60K miles (not severe service) and looked pretty decent, did not small bad, and passed the paper towel viscosity test. It was darker than the fresh fluid of course, but it could still be seen through (i.e. was not opaque).

The bottom of the pan and the pan magnet had a slight gray film of wear products, but no chunks, and no grit.

I took lots of pictures, and if I an figure out how to link/upload them to this site, I will throw together a procedure with pictures. Not a bad job, really.

Note that when refilling, I was only able to get 2-3 quarts into the pan before it started to flow back out the drain plug center plug. That is until I started the engine and run the shifter through the gears, allowing the tranny pump to pull down the pan level and refill the tranny, followed by repeating putting in another 2-3 quarts.

It does seem to me that checking level using the center plug on a tranny that is not fully warmed up and running could very, very easily result in running it with insufficient fluid.

 

[BrooklynBay]

This chart is # 34 in my list of useful threads: