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5R55W Fluid Fill

Great link! Is there a way to drain the torque convertor while trans is still in the vehicle? and when you fill the trans up with good fluid will it fill the TC as well or does that have to be done on its own?

This Thread has def helped me understand this process a lot with how to check level, and fill trans with new fluid. The only thing Im confused with is how to get the extra fluid remaining in the transmission out. So far I got that the fluid should be warm and and engine must be running, then shift through all gears allowing them to engage all the while the drain plug is out??

Also what do you guys think of additives for an older transmission such as Tranny Honey, Lucas etc. good?, bad? anyone of them better then the other?
I have 127,000 on mine. Trans was flushed at 70,000 (owners manual recom.)

I have a 03 X 4.0 AWD with 4hi and 4 lo (very fun in the winter!;)) does anyone know what transmission I have, the W or S?

Thanks!

I would imagine you drain it with the engine off. Don't want it running when there isn't any fluid in the tranny! Only have the engine running when filling the tranny back up (i.e. fill it as much as you can with the engine off, then start it, cycle the gears slowly, wait until warm and fill as needed).

As for which fluid is better, I was kind of wondering that myself. My Explorer has 69K and I've been thinking it might be time to change (or at least check) the fluid. I haven't checked it yet as I bought it only a few months ago (supposedly the dealership checked the level during their pre-sale inspection, but who knows if they really did).
 



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Getting ready to do a fluid change and looked through the various filling methods posted. One I haven't seen or missed was a technique I came up with using a 3 gallon pump-up garden sprayer. Fill it with ATF, you can modify the wand to add a hose or just lop it off to go in the side fill plug. You can add an inline fuel filter to the hose to catch any stray debris.
 






this thread is a life saver. while i am here in iraq my wife calls to tell me the transmission light is on and she thinks the tranny is going out. i told her its probably low fluid level. so when i get home next month i am gonna do the drain and refill procedures and let you all know how it turns out.

side note: i just talked to a good buddy and he said he take care of the tranny before i get home so i don't have to deal with it. that way i can kick back and relax. gotta love good friends
 






Recently had my fluid changed in my 06 Explorer, 4.6 V8, 6 sp 6R60, 80000 miles. I read all of these posts but I am not that handy and did not want to screw around in 90+ degree heat so I decided to have it done by a professional. I called around this area, talked to a few shops and ended up taking it to the local AAMCO guy. I tried to talk to the dealer to give them a fair chance but they did not answer an e-mail or even a phone call. If they are that disinterested, screw em.

The AMMCO guy seemed to know what he was talking about. He knew about the special fittings required, he knew about Mercon V and generally seemed to have some experience. He claimed to drop the pan, change the filter, then pump fresh fluid (Mercon V) through to clean out the torque converter. He said the 80000 mile original fluid was "ready" to be changed. The truck does drive better with smoother shifts and much smoother R to D transition. I am satisfied with how it came out.

Don
 






Best way to fill

What is the best way to fill the fluid back up if it is sealed?????

Thanks:cool:
 






For what it's worth, I had my transmission rebuilt at a Ford dealership and was charged for 14 quarts of transmission fluid p/n XT5BM. Among the repair notes was mentioned "flushed lines and cooler"
 






I changed my fluid and filter over the weekend and there are two things that are concerning me.

The first would be the fact that I drained about 6 quarts of oil (let it sit a couple hours) but upon filling it gave indications of "full" after only 4 quarts going back in. I cycled it through the gears and let it get warm too. It runs perfectly normal though. I'll probably check it again in a few days and see if it will take any more in.

My second concern is how disgusting my magnet was. I didn't think to take a pic until after I cleaned it but there must have been close to 1/8" of gunk on it. Not really any large shavings, just really fine particles that collected into a dark mush. The top side of the oil filter also had a coat of the dark film on it. However the bottom of the pan was pretty much clean as can be minus what was on the magnet.

TransFilter.jpg



Here is the new filter by comparison

OldandNewFilter.jpg



The fluid smelled normal. No burnt smell at all. The pic makes it look a little worste than it really was.

TransFluid.jpg



Then just for fun, here is the fitting I used to fill.

Fillfitting.jpg


This transmission has about 160k on her now. She was serviced about 30-40k ago due to the infamous servo bore. The bores were sleeved and a new solenoid pack was put in at the time. I wonder if it's been overfilled w fluid this whole time. We shall see when I check again after a few drives.
 






Update: Today after going for a drive around the block, I added the other 2 quarts of oil which brings the total added volume close to the 1.5 gal I drained out. This time the fluid didn't spit right back out as it did before.

The first time all I did to try and cycle the fluid was start the engine and idle in park, reverse and drive gears for a couple minutes. It looks like this wasn't sufficient to fill all the voids in my case. Letting the transmission cycle from 1st gear to OD a couple times did the trick. Im actually going to buy another quart or so to pump in because I'm not satisfied with the very slight drip I'm getting now.

Thanks for the great thread everyone!
 






valvoline dex/merc atf

Just did mine on my 02Limited. No tq converter plug after turning it around twice to look for a drain. Filled with Valvoline® DEX/MERC ATF after checking two references that it is a replacement for Merc V. Filled with about 4 qts using a 1/8 in nipple (couldn't find a 1/8 in with a barb end) and pumped fluid in using a Harbor freight transfer pump http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-66418.html . Update: Seems like I'm getting better gas mileage after a short 100 mile highway trip. It now hits 19MPG. Just did a 600 mi trip to Pittsburgh 7 back. Now hts 22 mpg. Haven't seen that for a long time.

so the valvoline dex/merc worked? no problems after?
 






so the valvoline dex/merc worked? no problems after?

Looking at Valvoline's site they make a specific fluid for Mercon V applications. According to the owner's manual for my 2002 Explorer the auto trans should be using Mercon V so that's the fluid I'd buy personally.

As for other places in the vehicle which call for Mercon (not Mercon V) such as power steering and transfer case, Mercon has been discontinued. Valvoline makes a Dex/Merc fluid which seems like it would be OK to use. There is also a Ford TSB that OKs Mercon V in Mercon applications for transmissions and transaxles, but it doesn't mention transfer cases or power steering. If anyone had insight on this I would be interested to hear it!
 






Looking at Valvoline's site they make a specific fluid for Mercon V applications. According to the owner's manual for my 2002 Explorer the auto trans should be using Mercon V so that's the fluid I'd buy personally.

As for other places in the vehicle which call for Mercon (not Mercon V) such as power steering and transfer case, Mercon has been discontinued. Valvoline makes a Dex/Merc fluid which seems like it would be OK to use. There is also a Ford TSB that OKs Mercon V in Mercon applications for transmissions and transaxles, but it doesn't mention transfer cases or power steering. If anyone had insight on this I would be interested to hear it!


Avoid using Mercon V in applications calling for Mercon before Mercon V existed.

There are examples of people having some shifting issues in AOD's, things which suggest slipping symptoms. The Mercon V is slicker than Mercon, and transmissions were and are made for it, to prevent converter shudder as an example. The AOD does not have clutches in the converter and thus cannot have that shudder.

The best fluid for a Mercon I trans is an ATF labeled as Dexron/Mercon. I thought Ford was going to make it illegal for makers to keep using the Mercon name and description, but happily it's still be used.

The AOD is one of the best examples for your question, since it was designed in 1980 before Mercon was. Those were made for type F fluid, and thus a type F fluid should work fine in any AOD. I personally prefer B&M Trick Shift for an AOD, since I had it in my first Mark VII AOD.
 






I have an 03 with the 5R55S in it. My dilemma, it has about 325000 miles on it and I haven't changed fliud and filter like I should have but has been done a couple of times. I know fluid is dark but should I change it anyway? I've been told by different mechanics I should do it because the new fluids are different from old days as far as not loosening up everything on one that hasn't been changed regularly. It works fine, just a little shutter like everyone else's, thinking of doing servo bore fix with o-ring servo kit and adjust bands. Also I was wondering when I change fluid and filter, can I fill thru fill plug on passenger side of case? Or do I have to do it thru pan? Any advice would be appreciated.
 






The fluid should be changed in any trans at some points, you have a great example of how the Ford intention to not allow changes could hurt. 300+k is too long to expect any trans fluid to last. So well done for having it changed at any times.

I would discover what VB kits and parts etc, are available for your 5R55S, and consider them all. Any upgrades will help even if the trans fails at some point, unless the VB is found to be unusable(worn out).

If the mileage is that high, also replace any solenoids that have mileage over about 75-100k each.
I have not dealt with one of those no dipstick models, but I would probably use the high plug to fill only within a couple of quarts. Then I'd use the proper method to fine tune the fill, after the trans has warmed up and gone through the gears a few times. You should take the time to be sure it's filled just right, when all warmed up(not cold or even hot(run hard)). Regards,
 






I was looking into some measurements and came across a dumb question. When I find a level check none of the guys talk about the orientation of the vehicle. For the tranny I have found a service manual reference to a tool (looks like a level ??) that might be used for the tranny but what about the drip level of the other things such as the rear/front differential or the transfer case. Does anybody know of a point to check for level / tilt on the car for the level check for each of the other 4 units (front/Rear Diff, Transfer case and Tranny)? Is there a common point where you can level it for all fill checks?

I see no one has had a answer to this yet but I have the same question. I put mine on jack stands all around same height on the main bottom frame and took a level to the running boards on the car and it seems level but beneath judging by the Transmission pan the Transmission looks not so level....wondering what is the proper level technique to check the fluid level meaning the car level or the Transmission.... not sure it's the same orientation. :dunno:
 






I see no one has had a answer to this yet but I have the same question. I put mine on jack stands all around same height on the main bottom frame and took a level to the running boards on the car and it seems level but beneath judging by the Transmission pan the Transmission looks not so level....wondering what is the proper level technique to check the fluid level meaning the car level or the Transmission.... not sure it's the same orientation. :dunno:

Any level reference will mean the vehicle normal ride height, the tire surfaces.

The body itself is not level, basically never, not side to side, fender to fender, in any direction, at level ride height. Do not adjust the chassis to level any body panels. To adjust those properly means to move them, not the chassis.:salute:
 






5R55S Transmission

I just used this thread to change out the transmission fluid and filter on my 2003 Ford Explorer XLT. Before I lifted the Explorer, I put a long level on both running boards and found it to be exactly level. When placing it on jack stands I was able to keep it level as required. I used a piece of cardboard to track all of the transmission pan bolts. Between the pan, the filter and letting it drip overnight, I got about 6.5 quarts out. I've read the pan gasket is reusable and it looked in decent condition, but I was able to pick one up at my local dealership, so I replaced it just to be sure. Along with replacing the filter and gasket, I gave the pan and magnet a thorough wipe down. I had a large fan blowing in the garage and a small fan under the Explorer to minimize odor/fumes/heat while working with transmission fluid under the running vehicle. I put about 6.5 quarts back in and even though the transmission hasn't had any problems in the past, it does seem to be shifting smoother than before.

I had a shop do this procedure a few years back when I bought the Explorer, due to it's "apparent" complexity. This time I took it on myself and I'm happy with the results. :)

5R55S Transmission
Motorcraft Transmission Filter (FT-140)
Motorcraft Transmission Pan Gasket (1L2Z-7A191-BA) 16 bolt holes
Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF 6.5 quarts


Here are some before and after pics:

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How many miles did you drive between the last fluid replacement, and this one? I wonder if that shop replaced the filter, and cleaned the pan or just replaced the fluid without removing the pan.
 






How many miles did you drive between the last fluid replacement, and this one? I wonder if that shop replaced the filter, and cleaned the pan or just replaced the fluid without removing the pan.

The transmission was flushed at 40K miles and 80K miles before I knew better. I just now changed the fluid and filter @ 120K miles. Im pretty sure this is the first time the filter has been replaced.
 






2005 Ford Explorer 4.0L V6 with 67,000 miles.

I plan on doing a pan drop and change with filter change. I've read and re-read how to do it, but want to post my plans, and see if anyone will advise if somethings needs to be added.

Is any fluid with Mercon V ok? Any brand good to use or avoid?

1. Lift entire truck up - level
2. Unscrew middle T-30 plug, let drain
3. Drop entire pan
4. Clean pan, magnet
5. Replace filter
6. Measure oil that came out
7. Re-install pan but leave T-30 plug out to use as re-fill
8. Hand tighten pan - is that ok?

Now I'm confused. Do I NOW turn on truck and start refilling?? Or refill approximately how much oil came out first, and THEN turn on truck, get it warm, and cycle through gears, etc.

Dealer refuses to do a drop, will only flush. So I want to do it myself, but correctly of course. Thanks.
 



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You won't be able to put as much back in as came out without it running. Fill as much as you can with it off, then start it up and let it run just a bit (doesn't take long to get it up to temp), and pump more in until it wants to run back out.

I don't own it anymore but I used this method twice on our Mountaineer V6 and it worked just fine.

Rob
 






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