Dismiss Notice



Register Today It's free! This box will disappear once registered!

5spdman's slow and cheap XLT build

Discussion in 'Modified 1991-1994 Explorers' started by 5spdman, March 11, 2014.

  • Searches ExplorerForum.com
    1. RockRanger

      RockRanger Elite Ranger Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      January 14, 2001
      Messages:
      6,137
      Likes Received:
      134
      Trophy Points:
      83
      City, State:
      Fresno CA
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      86 ranger no more
      Callsign:
      KK6TDL
      Glad to see you making progress on this.

      When I saw your post on facebook a few weeks back my heart sank. My brother went thru thru the same thing last year. Tracy and I lost a baby before we had Bailey though not nearly as far along as you two were.
       
    2. Support EF

      Join the Elite Explorers for $20

      Explorer Forum has probably saved you that much already, and will continue to save you money as you learn how to diagnose fix problems yourself, and learn which modifications work without having to experiment on your own. Elite Explorer members see practically no ads, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments in all forums, and Media Gallery, create more private Conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.


      to hide adverts.
    3. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      August 1, 2008
      Messages:
      9,256
      Likes Received:
      458
      Trophy Points:
      103
      City, State:
      STL MO
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      94 XLT-95 FX4
      I liked your post, only because I have been concerned for you both, and glad to hear from you. Give the wife a hug from all of us. We are your extended family Caleb, and here for ya.

      The beams and knuckles look great!
       
      • Like Like x 1
    4. WormsExplorer

      WormsExplorer Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      February 14, 2015
      Messages:
      848
      Likes Received:
      190
      Trophy Points:
      53
      Location:
      Colorado Springs, CO
      City, State:
      Colorado Springs, co
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      98 4.0 ohv sport 5
      I am so very sorry for your lose sir. My heart and prayers go out to you and all of your family.
       
      • Like Like x 1
    5. 96EXXLTinCO

      96EXXLTinCO Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      November 14, 2014
      Messages:
      456
      Likes Received:
      65
      Trophy Points:
      38
      Location:
      Colorado
      City, State:
      Colorado Springs
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1996 Explorer XLT
      Deepest condolences, and prayers for you and your wife. I cant imagine how tough that must be.
       
      • Like Like x 1
    6. 5spdman

      5spdman Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      December 2, 2009
      Messages:
      753
      Likes Received:
      86
      Trophy Points:
      28
      City, State:
      Stryker, OH
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      91 Explorer XLT
      Hey everyone! Thank you all for the kind words...it's been a trial, holidays sucked, and there were a lot of questions. Luckily, in the last two months or so, we've gotten answers and some closure. Turned out that it was blood clots in the cord that did it...just kind of a freak thing, there's no indicators that it is a chronic thing my wife has or that it would even happen again, but the Doctor is putting her on a baby aspirin to thin the blood, just to make sure it doesn't happen again.

      Back to the truck, I've got a few things coming up that will have me in the shop (an empty space at our fire hall were I do most my work when it's cold, wet, or going to take a while) here soon.

      Hunting season is over (one small doe and two squirrels, not much of a haul, but it'll do) and so now is the time to get the trans out and replace the clutch. Haven't bought one yet, as I have another vehicle and would like to get it out and inspect the condition of all the parts. Hoping I could just get a new friction disc, but I'll more than likely get a whole kit (disc, pressure plate, pilot and release bearing, disc alignment tool) from NAPA or RockAuto. Will probably get a new flywheel too. Anyone have experience with aftermarket clutch packs and/or flywheels? NAPA kit is almost $50 more than this kit (More Information for M-PACT 07077ST1) from RA, but for some reason, I'm not 100% sold on a cheaper aftermarket part, but on a budget, it's probably what I'll get. Same with the flywheel...

      During this time, I'll probably do some touch ups and maintenance on other things;
      -Ohio winters suck, so it'll get a good washing underneath to get the salt and road grime off.
      -I didn't do the best with painting the sliders and I'm getting some rust on the frame. Wire brushing and painting will be in the works.
      -After rebuilding the manual t-case, I just threw some cheap ATF in there, so I'll drain it and put in some Amsoil ATF.
      -Since the front end rebuild, I've been getting a slight vibration up front when in 4wd, so I'll be pulling/accessing all bearings and re-greasing them.
      -I've also noticed that the t-case is very loud at 40mph (only used when roads are snow covered)...not a terrible concern, but maybe some good fluid in there will ease the issue (not that it's in 4hi at those speeds often...just curious if anyone has answers as to why that might be...thinking I probably should have also replaced bearings when rebuilding as it previously was filled with gear oil.
      -Had a little post connection issue earlier today, so battery posts will be cleaned and the worn out negative post will be replaced.

      Have had a bit of a stumbling/lack-of-power issue when taking off or getting into a new gear, but isn't present when my foot is just barely on the gas. Part of this I want to attribute to needing to replace the clutch, but I'm wondering what else it could be? I'll be cleaning the throttle body and MAF (helped before), but I'm also wondering about plugs, wires, battery and that connection issue as stated before. Battery and wires were replaced when the truck was purchased (almost 5 years ago, wow!) and I can't imagine that they'd be bad already, but I've also had to put the battery on a charger twice this winter (attributing that to the miserably cold temps, and that with my battery shut-off switch, the only thing drawing power when disconnected is the radio memory). I replaced the plugs a year ago (probably didn't need to, but I did and it seemed to help a previous lack-of-power issue), so I'm guessing that's not it. Anyone else have any ideas of what it could be or things I should look at? :dunno:

      Last, but not least, I had to deal with this slipping clutch/lack-of-power deal for about 4 hours today instead of taking it to the station and beginning work on all this.

      Why you might ask?

      I sometimes browse Craigslist (all over the country) for 1st gens (hoping to find a Sport still for some reason :crazy:), and came across an ad for a guy parting out a 91, just south of Fort Wayne (1hr 30 min drive).

      $100 dollars later, I now have at my house 2 mirrors and glass for the front doors to replace the original ones to this truck, of which the Arizona sun and sand was not kind to before it became mine, and are hard to see out of...

      I did not spend $100 on just that; I in-fact got 4 complete, almost rust-free doors for those parts, and to start a half-door project that I've sometimes daydreamed about for the last 4 years! :sawzall::bounce: So if anyone needs switches and window motors, I'll have some up for grabs in the near future! And if you have any tips on how to remove window tint, that will also come in handy!:D
       
      • Like Like x 2
    7. 5spdman

      5spdman Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      December 2, 2009
      Messages:
      753
      Likes Received:
      86
      Trophy Points:
      28
      City, State:
      Stryker, OH
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      91 Explorer XLT
      This is the pile of donor doors, just begging to be picked clean of parts, cut, capped and painted...

      [​IMG]

      To be honest, seeing the paint scheme on them, kinda makes me want to paint the whole truck all over again, but maybe I'll just save it for the next project...but while they're waiting, and while I'm waiting for the time to start on this, I've got a few ideas on how to cut these, but wanted to share my ideas with you all and get your input.

      I started with this old picture of the truck (notice luggage rack 1.0 and grass-less scenery)...

      11042675_573634032735_1745921243526384844_n.jpg
      I took that and went to paint...red lines are proposed cut lines/final opening size...

      Cut option 1:

      half doors 1.jpg
      Cut option 2:

      half doors 2.jpg
      Cut option 3:

      half doors 3.jpg

      I'm using doors instead of just removing the doors or making tube doors for 3 reasons. Reason 1 being that while they're closed, they'll create a sort of "tub", keeping things from rolling out of the truck down the road and on the trails, which I could fabricate tube doors to do as well, but that's more work than I really want to do (along with mounting them to the hinges, etc.) The cuts also may not go as low as depicted, but I kinda like the feeling of there being no doors (drove my Sport with no doors for a month or so and loved it) and want to keep them low, but as mentioned, if something were to be placed on the floor, it wouldn't shift out or roll out of the truck. Reason 2, I'll still have mirrors, whether I have whole doors or half doors on, and they'll be relatively easy to swap. It wouldn't take much to mount mirrors to tube doors, but it would require me to purchase them on top of the cost of tubing. Reason 3, I won't have to locate a latch and then figure out and mess with mounting said latch as it's already in the door, I'll just have to figure out how to operate it (which I have a few ideas about already).

      Onto the reasoning and thoughts about the options. In all 3 options, it allows for the front doors to utilize the opening for the speaker that is already in the door. I like option 1 as it's uniform and both the front doors and rear doors go to the same level from the floor. Option 2 will allow me to also use the speaker opening in the rear doors, but I'm not sold on the way they aren't at the same level. Option 3 I'm not 100% crazy about as it kinda looks like I'm trying to copy a Polaris RAZR, but I do kinda like it. An adaptation to option 2 that could be considered as option 4, is to match the cuts like in option 1, but to the level of the rear doors in option 2, but doesn't keep the opening as large as I'd really like. Another possible addition to each option is a piece of tube steel inside the opening, at about the height of the arm rest, for an arm rest and as some protection on the trails.

      So what do you all think? Perhaps I should create a poll? lol
       
    8. RockRanger

      RockRanger Elite Ranger Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      January 14, 2001
      Messages:
      6,137
      Likes Received:
      134
      Trophy Points:
      83
      City, State:
      Fresno CA
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      86 ranger no more
      Callsign:
      KK6TDL
      I like two then one. Though I would have to sit in the front and rear seats to see what I would really like.
       
    9. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      August 1, 2008
      Messages:
      9,256
      Likes Received:
      458
      Trophy Points:
      103
      City, State:
      STL MO
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      94 XLT-95 FX4
      The NAPA performance clutch kit I recently installed, was actually made by LUK. Works great, and was cheaper than getting it in a box labeled LUK. Weird, that Napa sells it cheaper, but it is the same thing.

      Option #2
       
      Last edited: February 11, 2018
      • Like Like x 1
    10. yostyexplorer94

      yostyexplorer94 1st Gen Mod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      September 6, 2006
      Messages:
      600
      Media:
      2
      Likes Received:
      75
      Trophy Points:
      38
      City, State:
      Newburg, PA
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1994 Explorer
      Callsign:
      yosty
    11. 5spdman

      5spdman Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      December 2, 2009
      Messages:
      753
      Likes Received:
      86
      Trophy Points:
      28
      City, State:
      Stryker, OH
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      91 Explorer XLT
      Interesting...popular one seems to be my least favorite lol...just to give some reference, on option 1, the cut would be down to the same level as the top of the carpeting on the door panel, and option 2, the cut on the back doors would only be to the level of the arm rest o the door panel...keep them thoughts coming! It might be freakin cold right now, but I'm really itching to get back to modifying and fabricating!!

      A bit of an update, I'm not sure if it's the winter weather or the fact that I know I'll soon have it apart and not moving for a while, but I drove the Explorer to my parents (maybe a mile away) for lunch yesterday...somewhere around 9, we decide I should probably run home and let the dog out. I kinda notice the headlights flickering, and it gives me flashbacks of when I first moved out west...I was traveling I40 in the Rockies, downhill between two curves, and the headlights in my 92 Escort flickered twice and then just went out at 3am. (Turned out to be a bad relay). Well the truck lights never went out, but it made me think, so on my way back to my parents, I watched the gauges as I got on the gas...my volt meter would bounce all over the place, my battery light would just start to come on, and behold; the engine would stumble. Go to leave their place, nothing would turn on at all...wiggle around the contacts on the battery, got a good connection (for now) and didn't have a stumbling issue on the way home, just a slipping clutch...

      So, at least I have that narrowed down...now to actually getting around to doing the work...
       
      • Like Like x 1
    12. 5spdman

      5spdman Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      December 2, 2009
      Messages:
      753
      Likes Received:
      86
      Trophy Points:
      28
      City, State:
      Stryker, OH
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      91 Explorer XLT
      Well, I ended up getting rained out at work this afternoon, so I got the truck to the fire station and washed off the underside to get rid of the dirt, mud, grime and salt from the winter...best as I could at least...

      IMG_20180215_161006001.jpg

      Looks like I have some repainting to do...all the flaking is starting to bug me...

      IMG_20180215_161016520.jpg
      IMG_20180215_161040825.jpg

      It sometimes hurts me to think that I brought this almost rust free rig back to the rust belt and subject it to such cruelty...starting to get some cancer on the fenders, and I'm gonna have my work cut out for me getting those sliders cleaned up and refinished...and of course, rust coming through on parts that were just sandblasted and refinished only 6 months ago......ugh.......

      IMG_20180215_161028039.jpg
      IMG_20180215_161022856.jpg

      IMG_20180215_161118436.jpg

      Enough of that.....lets get to the big deal.....
       
    13. 5spdman

      5spdman Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      December 2, 2009
      Messages:
      753
      Likes Received:
      86
      Trophy Points:
      28
      City, State:
      Stryker, OH
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      91 Explorer XLT
      I've known for a little while now that I needed a new clutch...wasn't sure just how bad it was, and if I babied it, it would do what I needed, so I ran it through hunting season, and now that that is over (few days left for rabbit, but I take my car for that), it was time to get to work.

      Side note, just under 2 hours I had absolutely everything out of the vehicle, without removing fluids or having to lift the vehicle...a lift kit is good for more than just off-roading! :D

      Signs were not good as soon as the trans came out...

      IMG_20180215_182259425.jpg
      That black dust in the bottom of the bell housing is THICK! Not looking good...

      IMG_20180215_182327784.jpg
      Doesn't look too bad...

      IMG_20180215_182640538.jpg
      Hmm...yeah, it's not good...

      IMG_20180215_182751547.jpg
      IMG_20180215_182804939.jpg

      Also, I'm gonna assume this is not a good sign...is it normal to get a little seepage after you've removed the flywheel, or am I staring at a rear main replacement?

      IMG_20180215_184048535.jpg

      Fly wheel is smooth and shiny, and eaten in like a bad rotor in my mind, so I think I'm just going to get a replacement rather than resurfacing...the oil still has me a bit worried...

      IMG_20180215_184139981.jpg

      IMG_20180215_184152191.jpg

      IMG_20180215_184705655.jpg
      This is the sad state in which I left him...again...Edgar has been teaching me a lot and leading me to a lot of firsts when it comes to repairs and mechanics...

      With that being said, would I be throwing money away buying a complete clutch pack? Should I just buy a new disc and have the flywheel resurfaced? Or am I right in buying a new pressure plate, disc and flywheel? This is all new to me...I haven't purchased anything yet and have been trying to do some research on aftermarket companies....although, I did notice that RockAuto has the LUK kit (part # 07077) which is the same as the NAPA kit (part # 1107077) for $84, which is $65 cheaper than NAPA, so I may go with that if needed.

      At least it's out, I can research new parts, and work on some other issues that are present...
       
      • Like Like x 1
    14. RangerX

      RangerX Elite Ranger Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      July 14, 1999
      Messages:
      9,401
      Likes Received:
      108
      Trophy Points:
      83
      City, State:
      Omao, Kauai
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      '93 Ranger XLT 4X4
      Conventional wisdom is to do all clutch parts vs only some, because you're already right there with the tranny down. The labor in loved in getting to that point justifies doing everything. It's also the prime opportunity to do the real main seal, which seems to be a very common issue on first gens.
      When I did my clutch, I got the Luk package, with slave. I resurfaced the flywheel, and now 12 years later, I wish I replaced it with a new one instead. Reason is, these clutches are so damn problematic with disengaging completely, that I feel the amount shaved off in resurfacing makes a difference in operation. It's been operational since I did the clutch, but never perfect. Maybe I never bled it just right, maybe it's the thinner flywheel.
      I would get the Luke kit from Napa, seems like a good price, but can't include a slave at that price, can it? Choose wisely on which brand slave you get. Parts store slaves tend to fail in a year or two, from reading countless clutch threads here. People say bite the bullet and get it from Ford only. Or at least a luck brand one. And replace the pilot bearing while you're right there, too. Try hard to find a timken brand pilot.
       
    15. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      August 1, 2008
      Messages:
      9,256
      Likes Received:
      458
      Trophy Points:
      103
      City, State:
      STL MO
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      94 XLT-95 FX4
      I would do it all, and a new main seal. There are diff kits offered , and I chose the performance kit, because doing it once, was better than twice in my head.

      Have a read in the BH thread on this subject. I went thru exactly what your experiencing now, and have shared all my findings there, with pics. Its from last year, and will be towards the back of the thread.
       
    16. Brian1

      Brian1 Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      February 2, 2000
      Messages:
      5,048
      Likes Received:
      113
      Trophy Points:
      83
      City, State:
      Albuquerque, NM
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1991 XLT
      Callsign:
      KG5BAQ
      The LUK kit from Rock Auto is good, that is what I used last year when I did mine. I also bought my flywheel from Rockauto, it is cheap for being a big chunk of metal and it already has the bearing installed so that saves some labor of getting the old one out.

      Replace the slave cylinder with the Motorcraft one, I shopped online for the cheapest price.

      Replace the rear main oil seal with only the Ford Motorcraft one with the metal sleeve. All other seals will leak again. Ford has a TSB out that the crankshaft is too polished and the normal seals are not able to seal properly. The Ford seal comes with a sleeve that presses on to address that issue. It all goes on in 1 piece. Use the proper tool, it makes it so easy.Here is my thread on it: How To: 4.0 OHV Rear Main Oil Seal Replacement The Right Way
       
      • Like Like x 2
    17. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      August 1, 2008
      Messages:
      9,256
      Likes Received:
      458
      Trophy Points:
      103
      City, State:
      STL MO
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      94 XLT-95 FX4
      I have the main seal install tool, if you want to borrow it. Just pay for shipping. They aren't cheap!
       
    18. 5spdman

      5spdman Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      December 2, 2009
      Messages:
      753
      Likes Received:
      86
      Trophy Points:
      28
      City, State:
      Stryker, OH
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      91 Explorer XLT
      Thanks for that Brian! I wasn't sure what I'd be getting into with that...

      Greg, I might be in touch with you on that, but I'll check with my uncle (the family mechanic) and see if he's got one...much closer lol...
       
      • Like Like x 2
    19. 5spdman

      5spdman Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      December 2, 2009
      Messages:
      753
      Likes Received:
      86
      Trophy Points:
      28
      City, State:
      Stryker, OH
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      91 Explorer XLT
      Also, forgot to note, and I thought it was included before, just over a year ago I had to replace the slave, which was a NAPA brand and only lasted 2 years...I already bit the bullet and have a Motorcraft slave installed...
       
      • Like Like x 1
    20. mr cribb

      mr cribb US Army Retired Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      December 16, 2010
      Messages:
      2,221
      Likes Received:
      12
      Trophy Points:
      48
      City, State:
      Harviell, MO
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      94 Z71,
      What kind of undercoating are you using, or is any of it useful in the salt belt?

      To your door delima I liked option number one because everything is all symmetrical (and it doesn’t help that I’m OCD).

      Definitely replace the rear main while you have access to it.
       
    21. 96EXXLTinCO

      96EXXLTinCO Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      November 14, 2014
      Messages:
      456
      Likes Received:
      65
      Trophy Points:
      38
      Location:
      Colorado
      City, State:
      Colorado Springs
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1996 Explorer XLT
      Being broke as crap and needing my truck desperately a couple years ago, I was forced to use whatever slave Oreily's had. Almost 2 years to the day is how long it lasted, albeit 2 years of hard wheeling, so I've been eyeing the Luk slave. A little nosing around on amazon, and for my 96 (They list it as compatible with 93-03 Explorers) I found a flywheel, slave, and clutch kit, all Luk brand for under $200 if you're a prime member. There's only 8 reviews on the slave, and they're all 5 stars, but 8 reviews doesn't tell you a darn thing, and if I read your comment correctly, you've gotten 12 years out of a Luk slave?

      EDIT: Found the timken pilot bearing on rockauto. Fits the 93-03's also. It's TIMKEN F33126

      http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2472580&cc=1119620&jsn=595
       
      Last edited: February 19, 2018
    22. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      August 1, 2008
      Messages:
      9,256
      Likes Received:
      458
      Trophy Points:
      103
      City, State:
      STL MO
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      94 XLT-95 FX4
      The Napa kit I got, included the slave bearing, but I didn't use it. It locked in place, and wouldn't compress to allow the trans to be stabbed. I got them to break out another to compare it too, and it did the same thing. I bought a separate Napa slave unit, and it also locked. It was a plastic assembly, no boot, and a newer style bearing. I ended up shopping around a few parts stores, just so I could test it by hand. I found an all aluminum metal unit, with a nice dust boot & line tool, at Auto Zone, (of all places), and used it. I Know you already have the MC slave, but this is for you & others that might be reading this in the future.

      Old slave on top- Larger Napa bearing in kit on left- New Napa slave on bottom.
      old new slave and new release bearing.jpg
      Autozone Slave I used, and works perfectly. Better unit than all others I looked at, and was priced right.

      AZ slave top view.jpg
      AZ slave profile.jpg

      I also bought a new pre-filled & bled master cylinder line/resi tank, when I did this work, and loved it. A simple gravity bleed with a few Oz of new fluids was all it took to have a perfect pedal. I would do this again, if ever needed.
       
      • Like Like x 2
    23. mr cribb

      mr cribb US Army Retired Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      December 16, 2010
      Messages:
      2,221
      Likes Received:
      12
      Trophy Points:
      48
      City, State:
      Harviell, MO
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      94 Z71,
      Good to know @gmanpaint if I ever find another X worth buying
       
    24. 5spdman

      5spdman Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      December 2, 2009
      Messages:
      753
      Likes Received:
      86
      Trophy Points:
      28
      City, State:
      Stryker, OH
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      91 Explorer XLT
      I guess it's been skipped over, but I'm not planning on replacing the slave...I have a Motorcraft slave installed already that is less than a year old. Can't anyone read? (I'm just kidding btw...lot of words, lots of pictures...I usually read threads mostly by pics too lol)

      Anyways, I just ordered the Motorcraft main seal...$54 on Amazon, should be here by Wednesday. I've gone over the procedure a few times, but was wondering as I never read anything about it; I'm not going to have to drain any oil to replace the seal correct? Just want to be sure of this before I attempt to replace it.

      Greg, I checked with my uncle...he said it wasn't cost efficient to have all of the different sizes of seal install tools, and he usually installs them by hand, and then lightly goes around and around with a hammer and a piece of bar stock, working his way around until it's in...I don't have the years of experience he does, and not sure yet that I'll be comfortable doing that myself, so I may be in contact with you for that tool...

      I'm also a bit OCD, which is probably why I also lean towards option 1. As far as undercoating, I just used some rubberized stuff that NAPA had....for the bedliner on the sliders, I quickly went over them with a flap disc (like, very quickly), wiped them down with a cleaner and used spray can bed liner.....

      I'll be doing a better job with them soon...

      Haven't ordered the flywheel and clutch pack, but they are saved in a shopping cart on RockAuto...$185 for Luk flywheel, Luk clutch pack, Dorman shift repair kit (seeing fluid on top the trans around the shifter), and Walker exhaust spring bolts (original ones have been getting harder and harder to work with), including shipping.

      Had some trouble with the pipe-to-manifold flange bolts, and only two are original; the other two were grade 8 hex heads I found laying around that happened to match, so I'll also be going to Fastenal to get 4 new flange bolts, and 2 new wing nuts for the Hi-Lift (1 to replace the one lost in a creek in KY, and 1 to keep as a spare in case one gets dropped and lost again).

      I did do some work earlier this week. I replaced the mirrors on the truck with the mirrors on the donor doors (may take them off again to clean up and possibly paint) and ran some new speaker wire...when I built the truck, I ran all new 16g speaker wire to each door speaker, and then just wrapped wire around the speaker terminals. This was not the greatest idea as the front speakers intermittently go in and out, and I also lost the ability to remove doors if needed unless I unhooked the speakers and pulled the wire out of the rubber tube the door harness runs through. I remedied this by adding terminal connectors to a length of speaker wire, running it through the door and will be replacing the stock speaker wires in the harness connectors with the 16g speaker wires I ran throughout the truck...replacing doors will be as easy as 4 bolts and a plug now.
       
    25. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      August 1, 2008
      Messages:
      9,256
      Likes Received:
      458
      Trophy Points:
      103
      City, State:
      STL MO
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      94 XLT-95 FX4
      I mentioned you already have the slave, and shared for others searching. Sorry bud.
       
    26. mr cribb

      mr cribb US Army Retired Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      December 16, 2010
      Messages:
      2,221
      Likes Received:
      12
      Trophy Points:
      48
      City, State:
      Harviell, MO
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      94 Z71,
      Caleb, if you’re interested in something other than the rubberized coating you’ve been using, I have successfully used the DIY bedliner material from dupli-color on my Z71. I had tried the stuff you’ve used years ago, and it didn’t work for me.
       

    Share This Page







    We Support Our Troops!