8.5 lifted explorer!! 4inch body, 4.5 suspension with BTF arms | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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8.5 lifted explorer!! 4inch body, 4.5 suspension with BTF arms

Joined
October 16, 2018
Messages
49
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5
City, State
Kent ohio
Year, Model & Trim Level
2005 explorer xlt 4x4
06-10 explorer/mountaineer knuckle, tie rods, front struts caliper brackets and brake caliper helps ease the lift (the knuckle ) and I have 37x12.5r22s

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What gears are you running?
 


















Gears are what your axles turn at in relation to the driveshaft. 37s on factory gears have to be terrible. Not only that, it’s hammering out that v6 transmission.

Looks good though. I’d swap out to 35s max. With real tread they’d probably be roughly the same OD as what you’re currently running.
 






I'm still trying to understand I mean I think I get it but it's an auto? It seems to be shifting fine and going into the correct gear everytime I drive it, I haven't had any problems with this
 






Your differential gearing. Has nothing to do with shifting. Typically when you change your tire diameter drastically you regear your axles to bring it back closer to stock overall ratio. Running way oversized tires will cause excessive wear on your transmission.

These transmissions aren’t very stout with factory size tires.
 






Did you calibrate the PCM for proper MPH and correct shift points after the tire size change?

If not, how far off is your speedo and OD right now?

If yes, than your going to have to do it again after you change the gears out.

For a 37" tire, 488:1 is the lowest I would go, and since a D35 can't go any bigger than 513:1, that's your max.

You can find out what size gears you have by finding the code on the door tag for axles. Also the rear differential should have a tag on one of the bolts, saying what it is. I like to match them both up, to make sure they are the same. If not, then the cover comes off, and finding out the old fashioned way.

What MBrooks is trying to tell you is there is no faster way to kill an expensive transmission repair, by changing to bigger tires, without doing the rest of it. Gears and PCM flash are part of it, and there is more you can do, but those are bare minimum.

If you already know all this, awesome, but for someone that doesn't, and happens upon this thread, they will after.
 






nice...
Front Axle: D30 Yukon 4.10's
Rear Axle: Ford 8.8 Yukon 4.10's
 
























Ok I just put back on my 17s for now because like you said I need to do some work before I run those daily, I don't think my 315s are going to cause any problems right?
 






Those 37’s looked great but I suspect you have a bit of rub?

There must have been a noticeable performance drop with them and stock gears.

How did you get around the rear axles rubbing / bottoming out on the frame?

I noticed in one of your pics that a strut mount nut appears backed off. Better double check everything is tight.

Be safe.

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Yes I understand but mine came with 17s and I took off the 37s for now until I do more work I have the 315s on now and that nut is crossthreaded so I cant tighten it and the rear is around 8 and the rear axles are holding up with being around 4inch suspension lift 3.7inch total in the rear with 2 inch spacer
 






And the 37s aren't rubbing maby a bit in the rear over bumps but the front is clear
 






Fix the nut with a die set. Driving around on on improperly fastened suspension is a danger to everyone on the road. Especially when doing it on huge tires.

The stock rim size is irrelevant, the tires OD is all that matters.
 






Besides that one there is two others that tight, I've been driving with that one untight for months with no problems but I'll try and fix it soon but I'm running the 315/70r17s and they are right around 35" tires
 



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You take a corner off a triangle and you reduce its strength drastically. There’s a reason there are three. It’s not suitable for stock sized tires. Lifting things is dangerous if you aren’t going to do it correctly.
 






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