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93 Explorer AC Repair

AustinM

Member
Joined
February 20, 2018
Messages
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Year, Model & Trim Level
1993 Explorer XLT
The AC didn't work when I bought the car and I quickly realized that it needs more than a recharge, it has a leak somewhere and clutch won't engage when I turn on the AC so I figure that the whole thing needs to be replaced. I know that it has the older version of the recharge port from when I tried to recharge it and found out it had the leak. I was hoping that y'all would be able to help walk me through the process on how to go about fixing my AC system, cause it's starting to get hot again and I can't go through another summer just rolling down the windows!
 






I wound up replacing all the Hose/Lines on my system as they all eventually leaked. If you can, bite the bullet and do this all at once rather than loosing freon and replacing them over time.

The Accumulator is nothing more than a catch can for any liquid freon coming out of the evaporator, it is not a Receiver/Dryer. Replace only if rusty. Replace the orifice any time you open the system for major work... they are cheap and are a good filter.

Get a cheap freon sniffer, charge the system with one can and test for leaks from the condenser, (in front of the radiator) and the evaporator, (inside the heater box) testing with the blower on low AC on recirculate and sniffing the vents. If there is no indication of leaks from these parts or the compressor then your hoses/lines or connections are the problem.

Pump the repaired system down to vacuum for at least an hour, 2 is better and then leave the system vacuumed for at least 3 hours. If no change on the gauges charge to the recommended poundage of freon and see if it holds a charge.

Best of luck
 












I wound up replacing all the Hose/Lines on my system as they all eventually leaked. If you can, bite the bullet and do this all at once rather than loosing freon and replacing them over time.

The Accumulator is nothing more than a catch can for any liquid freon coming out of the evaporator, it is not a Receiver/Dryer. Replace only if rusty. Replace the orifice any time you open the system for major work... they are cheap and are a good filter.

Get a cheap freon sniffer, charge the system with one can and test for leaks from the condenser, (in front of the radiator) and the evaporator, (inside the heater box) testing with the blower on low AC on recirculate and sniffing the vents. If there is no indication of leaks from these parts or the compressor then your hoses/lines or connections are the problem.

Pump the repaired system down to vacuum for at least an hour, 2 is better and then leave the system vacuumed for at least 3 hours. If no change on the gauges charge to the recommended poundage of freon and see if it holds a charge Mobile Truck Repair Services in Lauderdale Lakes.

Best of luck
Got a few questions for you regarding the AC system and some repairs. I've done several full systems on different cars so I've got the tools and knowledge, just need advise on the Traverse. I ran some dye thru the system as I've got a slow leak somewhere, and after searching high and low the culprit seems to be the High Pressure relief valve on the bottom of the compressor as the surface is covered in bright neon under the black light. I also see a bit of dye on the condenser near the passenger side where the high pressure hose connects to the dryer/condenser. However, the dye looks old and may not be fresh and could be from when the car was wrecked a few years ago and the condenser replaced. Anyone know how to remove the dye to see if it comes back? The system holds r134a fine and cools fine, but just seems to have a very slow leak as I will recharge it and then over time get the typical surging sound from behind the dash at idle or low cooling times. Is this a typical point of failure for the Lambda line? Also, I've used a mirror and searched all the seals and they look good and no dye present. As to the condenser, does anyone have advise on removing the front fascia to get to it and how much oil does our system hold as I'll need to add some to the new dryer/condenser assembly? While I have the system open I'll probably go ahead and replace the Orifice tube and Schrader valves on the high and low side (cheap insurance). Any advise is greatly appreciated!!!!
 






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