93 XLT With Water in Oil

[Konakid]

Hi all,

I've spent a bit of time searching the forum for answers and haven't found them. My problem that I would greatly like your collective opinions on is as follows:

I have a 93 XLT with over 200K on it. I am the original owner and have changed the oil and maintained it fairly well over the years. No smoke and no oil use. On my last oil change, I drained the oil and found lots of brown milky gunk coming out of my engine. It was antifreeze in my oil. I was unable to see any oil in the radiator or on the radiator cap/neck, and since have drained the radiator with no oil found. After draining the oil, I filled it back up and parked it until I could get the garage cleaned out to make room for the Ex.

After reading the forum, I decided that it could be a head, head gasket, or lower intake gasket. I put the torque wrench on the lower intake manifold bolts and found most of them turned at least one full turn before achieving 200 in-lbs. I had been having some challenges in the past with shifting not working well until heated up, but found pack rats had eaten small plastic vacuum lines and my MAF was dirty. Cleaning the MAF caused the engine to really run great, and replacing the vacuum lines fixed the shifting issues. I had also had some problems with coolant leaking out the driver side of the engine and couldn't find the leak. I replaced the water pump and that stopped the leak, even though I never really saw it leaking out of the water pump.

So... I decided to pull it apart to find out what was wrong. After taking off the upper intake, I realized that I hadn't done a compression check, so I did one. All cylinders were at 155psi. I waited after each cylinder was pressurized and didn't see the needle coming off of 155 any time soon. One of the cylinders was at 160psi (I think front Drivers Side). I tried to duplicate it after the fact and couldn't. Now I'm wondering if it is a head or head gasket.

I pulled the lower intake off today, and can't tell anything from looking at it. There may have been a leak in the front and there may have been a leak in the rear on the left, but it is inconclusive. The intake manifold is crusted up with a bunch of carbon all around the walls, but it is consistent in all ports, making me think the leak could be occurring through the intake after turning off the engine and pressure from the radiator driving coolant into the crank case under the intake manifold. I found some coolant around one of the lifters, but think it flowed there when I pulled the intake. The manifold is wet in every port, but it smells like crankcase fumes, so I assume it is oil residue and carbon from the PCV and EGR.

If I pull the heads, how do I get them Magnaflowed? What is magnaflowing? Where can I get this kind of procedure done?

After reading all the heartburn stories about exhaust manifold bolts, I'm not looking forward to it, and would like to get out of doing it....

Any thoughts or recommendations?

Thanks!

 

[JohnnyO]

If I pull the heads, how do I get them Magnaflowed? What is magnaflowing? Where can I get this kind of procedure done?

You mean Magnafluxed. Magnaflow is a muffer. Magnafluxing detects cracks in the metal. Look for an engine shop or engine builder in your area. If they don't do it, they will know where to get it done.
Depending on where the head gasket is blown, it may or may not show a low cylinder. With 200,000 miles on it I can say with 99% certainty that it is a blown head gasket. Just change both of them and be done with it. Checks the heads for warping while they're off.

 

[Anime]

You probably are best off just pulling the heads and changing the head gaskets. There's also the very real possibility it's a coolant leak from a cracked head.

You'll have to decide if you want to keep the stock heads and pay for magnafluxing, or buy new ones. If there's any sort of crack, I'd strongly advise just buying new ones. New, complete heads are just ~$200 each. Good brands like Alabama Cylinder Head also flow more air than stock and are heavier, stronger heads than factory. The 90/93TM heads aren't that strong and eventually crack, so replacement while you have the heads off anyway is recommended. You should also replace the rocker arms at the same time, even if you don't replace the heads, since they wear down and cause the valve clatter at high mileage. It's some money to spend, but it's worth it in the end to do it all at the same time rather than spread out, plus you just have to change gaskets once.

 

[Konakid]

Thanks JohnnyO and Anime. I'll let you all know what I find when I get them off.

 

[wood1]

You probably are best off just pulling the heads and changing the head gaskets. There's also the very real possibility it's a coolant leak from a cracked head.

You'll have to decide if you want to keep the stock heads and pay for magnafluxing, or buy new ones. If there's any sort of crack, I'd strongly advise just buying new ones. New, complete heads are just ~$200 each. Good brands like Alabama Cylinder Head also flow more air than stock and are heavier, stronger heads than factory. The 90/93TM heads aren't that strong and eventually crack, so replacement while you have the heads off anyway is recommended. You should also replace the rocker arms at the same time, even if you don't replace the heads, since they wear down and cause the valve clatter at high mileage. It's some money to spend, but it's worth it in the end to do it all at the same time rather than spread out, plus you just have to change gaskets once.

X2. I wouldn't bother checking for cracks though. For the low cost and the peace of mind I just changed mine rather than checking them. Mine were on EBay for 175 ea, assembled.

 

[Konakid]

Heads Off

Well, it's taken a while working part time on weekends, but I've finally got the heads off. The gaskets look fine and I can't see any signs of leaking. I've ordered gaskets and tried to order heads from Alabama Cylinder, but they don't have them in stock.

I've considered 95TMs from Engine Quest, but I'm not sure my A/C and other accessories will bolt up the same way. Can anyone say with certainty that the 95TM heads will bolt up directly and enable my A/C and Power Steering pump brackets to bolt on the same way?

Thanks!

 

[jd4242]

Well, it's taken a while working part time on weekends, but I've finally got the heads off. The gaskets look fine and I can't see any signs of leaking. I've ordered gaskets and tried to order heads from Alabama Cylinder, but they don't have them in stock.

I've considered 95TMs from Engine Quest, but I'm not sure my A/C and other accessories will bolt up the same way. Can anyone say with certainty that the 95TM heads will bolt up directly and enable my A/C and Power Steering pump brackets to bolt on the same way?

Thanks!

They are a direct fit but will raise your compression (10:1 & 90+ gas is needed)and come bare.they sell 93tm witch are bare also but would leave your compression at 9:1

 

[Konakid]

Thanks jd4242. I've decided to go with the 95TMs and standard stuff out of Rock Auto. Valves, Springs, rockers, push rods.

One last question.... are the valves and seats all precision ground so that you don't have to lap the valves? Can I just put them in an go?

 

[topher1069]

My Dakota did that it was a blown head gasket.

 

[jd4242]

Thanks jd4242. I've decided to go with the 95TMs and standard stuff out of Rock Auto. Valves, Springs, rockers, push rods.

One last question.... are the valves and seats all precision ground so that you don't have to lap the valves? Can I just put them in an go?

Yes they are but its allways good to have them tested.here is a list i put together of all the parts i suggest for a 95tm head swap.i would look into doing a cam also if you have the money,if you do the pushrods would be different.

the guides come installed.you can reuse your retainers and keepers.SI is the company that makes the valve.here is a list of everything you will need to do a top end replacement.i suggest you break your lifters down and soak in carb cleaner and clean them real good instead of buying new ones.they run $47 a piece and you would need 12,but rock auto part #HT2244 if you decide you want new ones
HEAD
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-EXPLOR...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item27aca4d2da
gaskets,head bolts,valve springs,pushrods and rockers
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
gaskets-#HIS9724PT1
head bolts-HIS9724PT1
valve springs-HIS9724PT1
pushrods-HIS9724PT1
rockers-HIS9724PT1
SI valves part number,you have to call them
sev2027 and sev2028 $138 http://www.sivalves.com/onlinecatalog.html

your welcome
ps read this and use the code at rockauto
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=350140

 

[Konakid]

Thanks!

Yes they are but its allways good to have them tested.here is a list i put together of all the parts i suggest for a 95tm head swap.i would look into doing a cam also if you have the money,if you do the pushrods would be different.

Hey jd4242,

All your part numbers are the same for Rock Auto. Looks like the cut and past didn't work for that site. No worries, I can look them up while I order.

Thanks for all your help!

 

[jd4242]

Hey jd4242,

All your part numbers are the same for Rock Auto. Looks like the cut and past didn't work for that site. No worries, I can look them up while I order.

Thanks for all your help!

O dont know what happened. Ill fix it

 

[jd4242]

this is a list of all parts needed for a top end rebuild using 95tm heads(will increase compression to 10;1 when used with stock first gen pistons)the guides come installed.you can reuse your retainers and keepers.SI is the company that makes the valve.i suggest you break your lifters down and soak in carb cleaner and clean them real good instead of buying new ones.they run $47 a piece and you would need 12,but rock auto part #HT2244 if you decide you want new ones
HEAD
$209
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-EXPLOR...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item27aca4d2da
gaskets,head bolts,valve springs,pushrods and rockers
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
gaskets-#HIS9724PT1 $89.79
head bolts-# 2602509 $57.79
valve springs-# VS1630 $37.08
pushrods-# RP3332 $56.64
rockers-# R1092 $157.56
SI valves part number,you have to call them
sev2027 and sev2028 $138 http://www.sivalves.com/onlinecatalog.html
grand total of $745.86 before any discounts or shipping

ps read this and use the code at rockauto
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=350140

updated with the right part numbers and pricing

 

[Konakid]

Thanks again jd4242!

Do I need to put my lifters back in the same hole after I finish cleaning them? Does it matter?

 

[jd4242]

Thanks again jd4242!

Do I need to put my lifters back in the same hole after I finish cleaning them? Does it matter?

I would recommend it but if you soak them all at once then its kind of hard to do.take your time cleaning them real good and make sure you break them ALL the way down,take all the plungers and springs out of it.the plungers should move very freely after.i take and soak them in oil after and work the plunger so they fill up alittle.also make sure you torq the head and lower intake at the same time.

 

[Konakid]

Lifter Disassembly

I would recommend it but if you soak them all at once then its kind of hard to do.take your time cleaning them real good and make sure you break them ALL the way down,take all the plungers and springs out of it.the plungers should move very freely after.i take and soak them in oil after and work the plunger so they fill up alittle.also make sure you torq the head and lower intake at the same time.

I pulled the lifters out and I have been soaking them in kerosene today. I was able to get the top off of a couple of them and the first plunger out, but nothing else will come out of the two I've been working on. I tried Brake Cleaner, Berryman Chemtool, and penetrating oil (rust off). I've been knocking the head on a piece of wood to try and dislodge the spring and other plunger, but nothing moves!

Are they supposed to be this bound up? Any ideas?

 

[Konakid]

Lifter Disassembly Questions

Has anyone got any ideas?

These little buggers don't seem to want to disassemble...

Thanks!

 

[Konakid]

Lifter Disassembly and Cleaning Process

For all us newbies out there....

The process is thus:

I kept my lifters in two columns, left and right columns in the order they go into the engine front to back while I did the following non-trivial activities.

1. Buy a can of carburetor and parts chem-dip ($30.00). You might be able to get by with brake cleaner, but the chem-dip sure makes them shine.
2. Get a small flat blade screw driver and pry the plastic push-rod guides off the top of each lifter.
3. Put the lifters in the chem-dip for at least an hour with the holes in the sides of the lifters facing up (lets the bubbles out).
4. Take them out and rinse them very well with water or whatever the directions on the chem-dip say.
5. Spray penetrating oil into the hole in the side of the lifter to force all water and other solvents out.
6. Get a piece of wood and use the edge of the wood to try and dislodge the first piston out of the top of the lifter.
8. Spray more penetrating oil in the hole on the side and in the top to lubricate the second piston.
9. Find a drift punch (flat nose) that will just fit down inside the second piston and not damage the one way bearing valve in the bottom of the piston.
10. Try to move the second piston by pushing down with the punch. If you can't move it.....
11. Find a nice flat hard metal surface (I used the anvil on the back of my vise).
12. Place a few layers of shop towel on the surface and bang away (making sure not to deform the top of the lifter).
13. If you get the piston to move then spray some more penetrating oil into the top to lubricate the piston again. (you might try a very small screw driver and gently push the bearing valve in the middle of the piston to release any vacuum that may be holding it). A nice can of rust-off or similar with a tube that can be inserted into the hole in the side of the lifter will allow you to spray forcefully into the side of the lifter.
14. Once you get the piston to move keep lubricating and moving it until it springs up and down fairly freely.
15. Use the block of wood and bang the lifter to try to dislodge the second piston. When the top of the piston exits the body of the lifter, you should be able to pull it out with your fingers.
16. Lay the cap, first piston, second piston/valve, and the spring on the bench for later cleaning and reassembly.
17. Put the lifter body back into the chem-dip and soak it for another 30 mintues.
18. Use brake cleaner or whatever to clean off all of the parts. Pay special attention to the valve in the second piston. I used the tube on the brake cleaner and sprayed in one of the side holes in the ball retainer to get out all kinds of tiny gunk particles (probably holding the valve closed).
19. Once all parts are clean, you can use light oil to reassemble. (I was using WD40, but broke 2 of my plastic rod guide (caps), so I went back to light oil. The WD40 appears to make the caps brittle. (Never put the plastic caps in the chem dip, and keep them away from strong solvents)
20. I used 3-in-1 oil to reassemble the springs and pistons into the lifter body. Then I snapped the caps back on and only broke two. So I'm off to the auto parts store to buy a couple of lifters...
21. jd4242 likes to soak his lifters in oil and actuate them to get lots of oil inside them before reinstalling them. I'll probably do the same.

Happy lifter cleaning!!! Oh by the way, I ran into another forum where they were having a heated debate on what to call these things. One side called them Lash Adjusters and the other called them Lifters. Lifters works just fine for me

 

[jd4242]

Has anyone got any ideas?

These little buggers don't seem to want to disassemble...

Thanks!

Aww man im sorry,i dont know how i missed this email.i get a TON a day about engine questions. Man sounds like yours where do for a cleaning.very good write up man.people dont know that you can clean them and them work great after and ALOT dont know there is more than one part.what you describe here is just about what i did but a new set came with my rebuild kit.sorry i missed your email man again

 

[jd4242]

If you got a junk yard near by alot of time your find motors with the intake off that you can still the caps from.i would send you some but then it would make my spare set incomplete and knowing the mail they would break on the way;(