94 explorer 4.0 1354e TC M5OD-R1

[Bigsquishie1]

I have 81, 000 miles oon it justjust to replaced the master andand slave cylinder fly wheel, clutch. I was driving back from work the other day during about 75 and I just seem to have lost all gears could go in and out of gears very easy but would not move. I took the rear Driveline off to see if the transfer case was spinning no luck. I took the front Driveline off and was ready to drop the transfer case when I tried putting it into gear one more time too high 4 high 4 Low now it is spinning could it be the transfer case or could it be something in the transmission the clutch hasn't changed the way it feels please any suggestions I have a 1350 m transfer case Would It Bolts up close enough that I could at least get rear wheel drive back

 

[410Fortune]

hello and welcome

You have a 1354 manual t case not a 1350, slight differences

When you replaced your clutch and then re installed the t case you are supposed to adjust the manual shifter linkage, othwerwise your t case can very easily slip between 2wd and N or 4hi and N, etc
It maybe that you simply need to adjust the linkage
There is a large but that the shift lever pivots on, there is a smaller bolt that holds the bracket tight, believe it or not there is some adjustment here. What I do is put the T case in 4hi, then move the bracket slightly until the shifter arm is RESTING on the metal "gate" portion of the shifter bracket. The gate is the little metal tab that stops the shift lever from traveling back further, that tab sets where 4hi is on the shifter.
Hard to explain but really easy to do.
This gets over looked ALL THE TIME with the manual t case when it is adjusted properly you can easily shift from 2hi to 4hi just by pushing back and forward on the shift lever. If it is not adjusted just right, it will leave you in transfer case neutral = no power to the wheels

 

[Bigsquishie1]

hello and welcome

You have a 1354 manual t case not a 1350, slight differences

When you replaced your clutch and then re installed the t case you are supposed to adjust the manual shifter linkage, othwerwise your t case can very easily slip between 2wd and N or 4hi and N, etc
It maybe that you simply need to adjust the linkage
There is a large but that the shift lever pivots on, there is a smaller bolt that holds the bracket tight, believe it or not there is some adjustment here. What I do is put the T case in 4hi, then move the bracket slightly until the shifter arm is RESTING on the metal "gate" portion of the shifter bracket. The gate is the little metal tab that stops the shift lever from traveling back further, that tab sets where 4hi is on the shifter.
Hard to explain but really easy to do.
This gets over looked ALL THE TIME with the manual t case when it is adjusted properly you can easily shift from 2hi to 4hi just by pushing back and forward on the shift lever. If it is not adjusted just right, it will leave you in transfer case neutral = no power to the wheels

 

[RangerX]

Here’s a good thread that explains in detail what 410Fortune is saying How-To: Adjusting Transfer Case Shift Linkage (Manual Shift T-Case)

 

[Bigsquishie1]

The t case that I have in it now is the 1354 E I have an old 1350 laying around I don't need four-wheel drive at the moment but I took both drivelines out and all I hear is grinding in the transfer case I took the electronic shift motor off and tried shifting it manually and I still can't get anything to the output side of the transfer case

 

[RangerX]

Ah, electric shift.
I believe the 1350 will bolt up to your trans, should be the same bolt pattern. The front output on 95% of 1350s is different from the 1354, so you would not be able to just bolt up the front driveshaft. But you said that 4wd is not important right now.
Rereading you initial post, it sounds like you’re not really even sure that the tcase is definitely the issue. Is that correct?
A tcase swap is fairly easy, compared to dropping the trans, maybe just go for it and see.

 

[Bigsquishie1]

Ah, electric shift.
I believe the 1350 will bolt up to your trans, should be the same bolt pattern. The front output on 95% of 1350s is different from the 1354, so you would not be able to just bolt up the front driveshaft. But you said that 4wd is not important right now.
Rereading you initial post, it sounds like you’re not really even sure that the tcase is definitely the issue. Is that correct?
A tcase swap is fairly easy, compared to dropping the trans, maybe just go for it and see.

That is correct I'm not a hundred percent sure that is a transfer case but nothing in the transmission feels different except the fact that it doesn't go anywhere the clutch feels fine the fluid level and everything was fine

 

[Bigsquishie1]

Ah, electric shift.
I believe the 1350 will bolt up to your trans, should be the same bolt pattern. The front output on 95% of 1350s is different from the 1354, so you would not be able to just bolt up the front driveshaft. But you said that 4wd is not important right now.
Rereading you initial post, it sounds like you’re not really even sure that the tcase is definitely the issue. Is that correct?
A tcase swap is fairly easy, compared to dropping the trans, maybe just go for it and see.

That is correct I'm not a hundred percent sure that is a transfer case but nothing in the transmission feels different except the fact that it doesn't go anywhere the clutch feels fine the fluid level and everything was fine

 

[shran]

I'd be tempted to pull the t-case, start the engine and put the trans in gear and see if the output shaft on the trans spins and/or if any noises are present. That way you can rule out the trans.

Your 1350 will bolt in but as 410 said the front output will not work with your driveshaft and the rear yoke may be, and probably is, different - there were at least three if not four different rear yokes on 1350 t-cases throughout the years. On the bright side if your rear shaft won't bolt up to the 1350, I believe you can take the rear yoke off your 1354 and put it on the 1350.

Where are you located? There's probably someone local to you that might have a spare t-case if that ends up being the issue.

 

[Bigsquishie1]

I'd be tempted to pull the t-case, start the engine and put the trans in gear and see if the output shaft on the trans spins and/or if any noises are present. That way you can rule out the trans.

Your 1350 will bolt in but as 410 said the front output will not work with your driveshaft and the rear yoke may be, and probably is, different - there were at least three if not four different rear yokes on 1350 t-cases throughout the years. On the bright side if your rear shaft won't bolt up to the 1350, I believe you can take the rear yoke off your 1354 and put it on the 1350.

Where are you located? There's probably someone local to you that might have a spare t-case if that ends up being the issue.

I'm in spring creek Nevada I have a Doner but it's an 89 Ford Ranger with a 2.3 but it is a 5-speed I don't know if the transmission is the same I also have a 1999 Ford Explorer with a 4.0 but it's an automatic transmission

 

[shran]

The trans in the Ranger is very similar but has a different bellhousing pattern - the internals would swap over into your V6 transmission case though.

The '99 t-case may be a 1354, potentially, but it also could be a BW4404 or 4405 and they all have a vastly different front output and I do not believe they have a hole for your speedometer cable to slide into. Almost better off using the 1350 in this situation I think although neither are really ideal.

If the '99 does in fact have a 1354 you may be able to swap its guts into your 1354 case and build a working t-case.

Or just find a working one. I'd hook you up if you were closer, I have 4-5 of them on the shelf but they're not worth shipping.

 

[Bigsquishie1]

The trans in the Ranger is very similar but has a different bellhousing pattern - the internals would swap over into your V6 transmission case though.

The '99 t-case may be a 1354, potentially, but it also could be a BW4404 or 4405 and they all have a vastly different front output and I do not believe they have a hole for your speedometer cable to slide into. Almost better off using the 1350 in this situation I think although neither are really ideal.

If the '99 does in fact have a 1354 you may be able to swap its guts into your 1354 case and build a working t-case.

Or just find a working one. I'd hook you up if you were closer, I have 4-5 of them on the shelf but they're not worth shipping.

I got it out today and it actually looks pretty damn close to the other one so it should be okay I can get a reman for 400 but400 but it's 9 days out