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94 Sport Full Width Dana 44 and 9 inch

Ok it's finally looking like something. This thing should be complete by the end of next week, so I am posting this in the registry instead of the projects section, I hope that's OK with everyone.

Front:Full width Dana 44 from a 78 Bronc with 4.88s and a Lock Rite
Wild horses coils, custom drag link and radius arms. Bronco buckets and stock track bar.

Rear: Full width Ford 9 inch, with 4.88s and a EZ Locker, stock springs and 4 inch blocks.

No cutting down here. There are pizza cutters on her right now, but I'm picking up the 35' Muds tomorrow.
(dead links)
Thanks for looking!!!!
 



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In one of the first few posts, he said that he spaced in the retainers and spaced out the buckets. ;) Svande, do you have any more pics of the coil buckets spaced out? Also, by extending the radius arms, did you not have to space out the r/a mounts?
 



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I second for more info on the coil buckets maybee even pics.My buckets are at an angle at the top so if i mounted them (like how you did) flush the bottom would stick out and rub on the coil.Also did you just line up the top of the bucket with the top of the frame.
 






Hey bmxking in the first part of the thread he says he does space out the buckets. But later on he answers a question for trckmagic and says he doesnt. Judging by the pics it looks like he didnt. But as for my question svande. Is thier a diff between 78-79 buckets? Like i was asking in the prevoius thread if i mounted mine like yours the bottom of the bucket would rub on the coil and the spring would be at a wierd angle. At least thats what it looked like when i was mocking it up. heres a pic of my bucket.
 

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My coil buckets are only spaced at the top so that they are verticle. I have seen some good looking coil buckets that have been spaced out with 2x4 steel, so I know that works well. If I did it again, I would use 2x4 steel to space the buckets.

As far as I know there is no diff between the 78 and 79.

The RA mounts are just heavy wall square tube that is mounted at an angle to the frame rail. I extended the RAs and mounted them at the point where they intersected the frame rails.
 






ohe_boy said:
svande8952 - did you move your axle foward 2"? Does the front diff hit the crossmember when its at its highest point?

Yes it did hit the xmember, but I just cut it out with a plasma cutter so the diff would fit at full flex.
 






Thanks for the info. I am extending my arms from bentandtwisted.com and am looking for some female heim or jonny joints that will thread right on to the arm with a jam nut and the call it good. Not sure on the thread though. Also it looks like you moved your buckets until the drivers side fits right into the frame groove where it forms out for the steering box? (which is 2 inches right) . I was thinkin about cutting a piece of 2x4 steel (like you were talking about) and cuttin the same pattern in it to make the frame flush and move the bucket 1 inch farther so would be around 3 inches Foward. Thanks again.
 






this is good. i am using the same front axle as you are. and at ride level about the same as yours. but i have a problem, i cant find a front drive shaft with enough drop. you seem to have worked this out. can you post a few pics or tell me what you did, it would help so much. i have all of the other things done but this is holding me back from going wheeling. the 1330 is good with no problems but the top is no good. i used the stock spicer and it is almost enuogh. douse anyone know if they make one with more drop?
 






brnbomr, I think you should consider making a square driveshaft. You can make it so it's got a TON of "slip" and you won't have any problems with that. It won't be balanced, but I don't know if you run high speeds while in 4x4. I plan to make one for mine too.
 






ya that is what i want to do its not that pinion angle from the axle its the transfer case angle. my friend has square driveshaft and he can run it up to about 40mph, but then it starts to rattle. bmxking5 instead of moving the coil buckets on the frame, try the axle. this is what i have done and have not had any broblems. till the driveshaft.
 






brnbomr said:
bmxking5 instead of moving the coil buckets on the frame, try the axle. this is what i have done and have not had any broblems. till the driveshaft.
Yeah, I was planning on getting a 78-79 front axle, which wouldn't be able to be moved in from the bottom. But when I finally found one locally, it was a 77, so I'm going to be moving in the c-wedges and won't have to worry about pushing out the buckets.
 






nice. what coils you runnin.
 






Wild Horses 5.5" EB
 






I saw that thing rollin around town the other day, I cut you off pulling into express stop so I could get a better look, made me want to SAS my 98 ranger, so I went and got an 86 waggy d44 and so it starts............in those last pics you posted, is that ALTO PIT!!!!????
I LOVE THAT PLACE!!! maybe we can get together sometime and go wheelin!!!!!
 






I know you can use the stock track bar but I'm curious to know how you rigged up your steering? did you use the stock bronco center link with the stock explorer pitman arm also is your rig street legal?
 






im curious about your steering also, could you tell me what parts you used to hook it up
 






whats a good way to keep the axle even on both sides when you go with full width?
 






My steering is custom chromoly with heims. I drilled out the pitman arm to make it happen, then I moved the tie rod to the top of the steering horns. It was actually very easy.
 






Here is the latest version of my steering.
Iam going to modify it slightly and move the drag link botton attachment on to the tie rod instead of having it on the knuckle
 

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svande8952 said:
Here is the latest version of my steering.
Iam going to modify it slightly and move the drag link botton attachment on to the tie rod instead of having it on the knuckle
^^Similar to the BC Broncos setup they sell that welds on the tie rod?
 



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Here is phase III of my steering. I moved the drag link onto the tie rod via the two brackets and installed high misalignment bushings on the pitman arm end. This will eliminate the binding I had in my steering.
 

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