95 explorer won't idle more than a few seconds

[Darins explorer]

95 4.0L. It Starts and then dies after 10 or 15 seconds. New pump and filter. Ist it possible I didn't connect the pump right? There is a steady flow of fuel from test valve. Maybe fpr? I don't Jane test gauge. Can I use a water pressure test gauge? Or air gauge? Please help I'm missing work...

 

[koda2000]

95 4.0L. It Starts and then dies after 10 or 15 seconds. New pump and filter. Ist it possible I didn't connect the pump right? There is a steady flow of fuel from test valve. Maybe fpr? I don't Jane test gauge. Can I use a water pressure test gauge? Or air gauge? Please help I'm missing work...

You can use a tire pressure gauge to test the fuel pressure at the shrader valve. I believe you should be seeing around 36-37 PSI on a '95.

The fuel pump itself should only have 2 wires. A red (which is power) and a black (which is the ground) there may be a yellow and a tan wire, but they don't have anything to do with the pump working. Did you have to splice any wires for the pump? If you bought a complete fuel pump assembly for your truck it should have been a plug-and-play installation.

 

[fastpakr]

Did the problem start after the pump and filter change, or is that why you changed them?

 

[Darins explorer]

The pump did have only red and black wires. The problem was ongoing. That is why I changed the pump and filter. I' sorry I'm trying to navigate through this forum

 

[koda2000]

I just PM'd you a few questions.

 

[fastpakr]

Correct me if I'm wrong here...
Pump fires automatically for two seconds when key is cycled as a priming pulse.
Pump runs continuously when engine movement is detected (crank or cam position sensor I think?)

Would it make sense that the priming pulse is loading the system with enough fuel pressure to run briefly, but the signal from the computer to the fuel pump relay to continue running the pump is breaking down somewhere?

 

[koda2000]

IDK why you went with a "performance" fuel pump rather than a more stock replacement. I guess that explains the 100 PSI you're seeing at the regulator (which seems extremely high). It doesn't seem to me that you connected anything incorrectly, but I'm wondering if you are overpowering the stock FPR with that much fuel pressure... ? I'd still like to know what pressure your seeing at the shrader valve.

 

[Darins explorer]

That could make sense but I

IDK why you went with a "performance" fuel pump rather than a more stock replacement. I guess that explains the 100 PSI you're seeing at the regulator (which seems extremely high). It doesn't seem to me that you connected anything incorrectly, but I'm wondering if you are overpowering the stock FPR with that much fuel pressure... ? I'd still like to know what pressure your seeing at the shrader valve.



The rerplacerment pump is a OEM replacement pump. Don't believe its high performance. Its equivalent to stock pump. I haven't check the pressure from the valve yet. Don't have a gauge. Another guy mentioned the crank/cam sensor. I didn't mention that yesterday at the end of the day I removed and replaced the pump again because I couldn't hear it running . its working fine as I could tell.But the car wouldn't even turn over. I'm sure it will now. But won't idle. There was a connector by the regulator that was disconnected? Didn't start either way.

 

[Turdle]

Silly question but does the check engine light illuminate when you turn the key on and turn off when the engine is running?

Will feathering the gas pedal help keep the engine running, or does it die hard?

 

[Darins explorer]

Just tried to start truck and wouldn't even turn over. No fuel to rail. Hey turtle, the check ingine light has been coming on and off since I bought it in may. Just came back and tried to start it and won't turn over at all. It ran great except for the intermittent starting issue. Every now and then it would not want to start so I wait a bit, then it starts

 

[Turdle]

won't turn over as in will not even crank, or does it crank well and not fire up?

Battery cables. Fuel pump relay socket connections.

 

[IronCurtain]

If battery died may be alarm issue, if it won't even crank.

 

[Mbrooks420]

If battery died may be alarm issue, if it won't even crank.

Alarm won’t stop the motor from turning over, it stops fuel delivery, and the theft light would flash very rapidly.

I’d replace the fuel pump with a factory style, and forget any universal ‘performance’ parts on this.