96 Ford Explorer: Ignition switch replacement- old one jammed

[Diginick]

Hi folks,

The 'ignition switch' or 'ignition lock/coil', not sure the proper name for it, but the thing where you put the key in to start the car lol, has been jamming/sticking for awhile, until it finally got the best of me, and stopped turning altogether with the key in. I had just drove back from work one night, parked the car, realized I needed to go somewhere still, and the key stuck.
-One thing to note is that my power locks have been acting up lately as well, and the same time my ignition locked, the power locks jammed as well (driver side will occasionally get stuck in the lock mode)
Oh and the keyless entry (keypad on the door), stopped working the same time the locks began to jam. But that's not the main issue here...
I discovered it should be a pretty easy fix, where you just put a screwdriver/or push tool in a little hole under the steering column, which will push a little pin inward on the ignition switch, then you can just pop it out with your hand. Sounds pretty easy, except you need to turn the key into the on/drive position (first turn of the key where it starts the battery/radio/ant-theft etc), which I can't even do now. So I can't get out the old switch, in order to replace it.
How to video for reference:

Once I put the key in the ignition, it won't turn at all now.
One tip I received is to just spray some WD-40 in the switch, but I'm not sure, and afraid that might mess with electrical stuff.
How can I get out the ignition switch, if I can't turn the key to the drive position first? I hear some people drill it out somehow, but I don't know if and how to do that either.
Also, I did find there are a few fuses that are for the ignition/and power locks, I'm going to check if those are blown, and maybe replacing them will help me turn the key, and unhinge the power locks as well. Hoping to find some answers as I check the fuses tomorrow, thanks in advance.
-Nick

 

[CDW6212R]

That's a key cylinder issue, the tumblers etc, inside have broken or become dislodged. I've only had that happen once about 25 years ago. You have to physically turn the key cylinder to the run position. How to do that is tough, try to get something like a pick to get in there and dislodge any pieces you find. I don't know of any great solution, the cylinder won't come out until it's at the run position and the tiny pin pushed in. You don't want to break the column but you have to force the key/cylinder to turn. If that's you only key, don't ruin that before making a duplicate. You can re-key a different cylinder, locksmiths do that easily.

I've got my 98 acting up in a way that may result in the same thing, I need to replace mine soon too.

 

[Turdle]

Posting this in hopes it helps you to use your existing keys in a new lock cylinder.

If you have another key, you might try it, along with some graphite powder lubricant inside the lock. some wiggling of the key and lube powder might get it to turn.

How to: - Ignition Switch broken, How to fix lock to use original keys

 

[Diginick]

Posting this in hopes it helps you to use your existing keys in a new lock cylinder.

If you have another key, you might try it, along with some graphite powder lubricant inside the lock. some wiggling of the key and lube powder might get it to turn.

How to: - Ignition Switch broken, How to fix lock to use original keys

Might try the graphite powder thing, I been wrestling it again with no results, thanks.

 

[Diginick]

That's a key cylinder issue, the tumblers etc, inside have broken or become dislodged. I've only had that happen once about 25 years ago. You have to physically turn the key cylinder to the run position. How to do that is tough, try to get something like a pick to get in there and dislodge any pieces you find. I don't know of any great solution, the cylinder won't come out until it's at the run position and the tiny pin pushed in. You don't want to break the column but you have to force the key/cylinder to turn. If that's you only key, don't ruin that before making a duplicate. You can re-key a different cylinder, locksmiths do that easily.

I've got my 98 acting up in a way that may result in the same thing, I need to replace mine soon too.

Thanks, I'll try to find some ways to dislodge it. Found a trick in this video, you turn the wheel to the left, and hold it tight as you try to turn the key. Hasn't worked for me yet, but I feel it getting closer.. need another pair of hands-

 

[CDW6212R]

That is true, the steering wheel can put pressure on the shifter mechanism, but it's a bad pressure. It is possible that the wheel is turned and being held that way against the shifter mechanism. That would stop the greatly resist the key from turning. That happens occasionally with most cars normally, the wheel is being held by hand while the key is turned off and removed, leaving some pressure from the wheel, upon the mechanism. So the answer in those cases is to see which way the wheel wants to turn or remain, and manually turn it the other way, which relieves pressure.

If you can turn the steering wheel gently each way, then that shouldn't be an issue. If it won't turn one way at all, but will with high pressure the other way, then it is applying pressure to the shifter mechanism.

 

[Diginick]

Hey Don, thanks for your help so far. Well, I finally got it out! Somehow after I decided to take off the panel beneath the wheel, the key magically turned to the on position, I could see the pin and I pushed it out.

After that, I inserted the new switch, reconnected the negative battery, closed all doors and locked the car, and tested both keys. All the electric signs and noises came on, both keys could turn in the on position, and then I attempted to start the car- but nothing, the engine had one small gasp until it killed everything. It almost seemed to kill all the electric at one point, but I got it back after a few tries.
I knew that I may have to program the key as it's a transponder key I believe, but I had hopes I could skip that; mostly out of fear because programming the keys calls to first turn two old keys to the on position, then take out the old switch/and put in the new switch within ten seconds- making sure the doors are closed and locked during the process. I guess that's what I may have to do, but I'm worried about the old switch getting stuck again.
Decided to take my time with that, and took out the new switch for now.
Goal 1 complete, now onto getting the new key to work..

 

[CDW6212R]

That's a 1996 Explorer yes? So you have a new key cylinder with different keys. The new keys will work fine in your 96 truck. They just won't work on the doors or hatch. If you want to have a key that operates all of them, then you have to get the key cylinders altered to accept the same key.

If the truck doesn't start, that will be unrelated to the keys. Check the battery and cables for proper 12v.

 

[Diginick]

Yes Don, it's a 96 Explorer, and I have a new key cylinder with different keys. I know they won't work for the doors, I just want it to start my car... but when it wouldn't start I thought maybe I have to program the key, you don't think so?
I never had an issue with the car starting before, hmm. Well I did clean the battery corrosion while I was at it, I wonder if I ruined the battery somehow? Crap

 

[CDW6212R]

You're just down to a normal starting issue. The key switch messing up may have had the battery being drained for some time. It may just need a jump and have it run enough to charge the battery. If you can check the voltage, you can know if the battery is low or low enough to need a longer charging.

 

[Diginick]

Cool thanks, I wouldn't have thought of the battery draining. Well my paps is stoppin by, so I'll see if we can jump it then, and check the voltage perhaps.

 

[toypaseo]

Check for corrosion between the battery cable and the battery terminals.

That was an issue when I had a turn key, click, and everything dead problem.

 

[Diginick]

Thank you guys, that's all it was, the battery wasn't connected securely enough.
So, I was just over thinking it by then! Any other day I would say duh it's the battery.
Once I secured the battery connection, my truck started with the new key! I made it to a dinner last night, thanks to this forum.
Thanks so much for your help, got me through it

 

[CDW6212R]

Well done, you got the old key cylinder out without hurting anything. That's fixing it before it became a bigger deal.