97 ranger 2.3 Getting worse instead of better

[Aquapro]

Ok, I apologize in advance for the lengthy post but we have tried a lot of suggested fixes but things have snowballed and I could use some advice. Bought a used 97 ranger 2.3 for my son. 109k. Standard transmission. Ran well for a few days and then got a check engine light. Code reader said there was a misfire and a suggested fix was plugs and wires. Installed the plugs and wires which Cleared code and it didn't come back. Few days later, truck began to start hard after warmed up and then sometimes not at all. No codes. It would start when you popped the clutch or when it cooled off completely and then run fine until you go to start it again. I thought it might be weak fuel pump. I could hear fuel pump when key was turned on but thought maybe it wasn't pumping enough. Used tester at fuel rail and cycled key 3 times. First time about 8 psi, second about 25 psi, 3rd 40 psi and held firm. Figured that pump was ok? I found a related thread with the same symptoms that suggested to clean the throttle body and MAF. Did that and replaced MAF. Still didn't help. I told my son to disconnect the battery for the day and perhaps it would reset something. Now it just cranks and won't start at all. Any help much appreciated.

 

[jremington59]

Did you check the fuel pressure again?

 

[Aquapro]

Yea, hooked the gauge back up and have about 8 psi with first turn of key and then 40 psi on 2nd turn and crank.

 

[Carguy3J]

That sounds like a weak fuel pump to me. 8psi is not enough to start the vehicle properly, and you should have enough to start the truck on the first key turn. A fuel pump on its way out will usually work even worse after its been running a while and has gotten hot.

You could also check for a "leaky" injector,etc... You say it will hold the 40psi after the 3rd crank, but how long does it hold it for?

You should also check all the various engine sensors, such as coolant temp and intake air temp, as well as the TPS. You need a real scanner, not just a code reader, so you can view "live" sensor data. You need to see if what they are reporting to the ecm is within "reality". You can have a sensor reporting very bad data, and still not set a code. The ecm just looks for a sensor to report a number within an accepted range , but it has no idea if that data is accurate otherwise. For example, its 50deg outside, but your IAT sensor is reporting 80deg to the ecm. No code will be set, because 80deg is within the normal expected range, but in this case it would be very wrong, and would cause all kinds of driveability issues, since you the ecm would call for less fuel and you would be running lean. Same thing with coolant temp, tps, or even o2 sensors, etc... Just because there is no code doesn't mean there is nothing wrong.

 

[Aquapro]

Thank you for the reply. Yes, I was still concerned about the fuel pump and was probably going to change it as a last resort. Now however, I am baffled that it will not start at all after disconnecting the battery. I do have a pretty decent reader that does live data, etc.. but i do not know how to read the data. I only know enough to be dangerous. lol! and since I cant get it started now i probably wont have much live data. I am also concerned now that any info i get from the onboard monitor test might be skewed because i disonnected the battery and havent been able to run it any period of time I did print out some info from the onboard test that indicated a fail with egr numbers and something else but I dont have that in front of me right now.

I felt a lot better when it was at least starting.