99 EX. Drivers Door Won't Lock

[mfitz725]

Heyes guys, my 99 Limited suddenly won't let me lock the drivers door with the rod button, the key or the fob. I found a small spring lying in the latch and removed it and it started working with the rod and the fob but now nothing. I read the entire thread on replacing the latch but that all seemed to focus on not being able to open the door. Do you think this is still a latch issue that should be replaced especially since that small broken spring was found? Please let me know what your opinion is. Thanks in advance for your time and consideration.

 

[swshawaii]

Latches, actuators, rod clips, switches, and wiring are ALL extremely common failures with these vehicles. Only way to diagnose is by removing the door panel, or inspect the wiring near the hinge for breaks. I had the same issue with both front doors not LOCKING, and found small broken latch springs laying in the bottom of my doors once the panels were removed. After the panels are removed the first thing you must do for visibility is remove the rear glass run channel held my one bolt. Make sure all linkage rod clips are connected or not broken, especially the yellow folding clip. After various repair attempts, I ultimately ended up replacing both latches. You may have seen them, but jusin case here are two good threads that are not specific to your issue, but may be useful for the pics alone. Glad to help if at all possible, just ask. GL

door latch problem solved - temporarily maybe?? | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

How To: Drivers Exterior Door Handle Replacement | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

 

[mfitz725]

Latches, actuators, rod clips, switches, and wiring are ALL extremely common failures with these vehicles. Only way to diagnose is by removing the door panel, or inspect the wiring near the hinge for breaks. I had the same issue with both front doors not LOCKING, and found small broken latch springs laying in the bottom of my doors once the panels were removed. After the panels are removed the first thing you must do for visibility is remove the rear glass run channel held my one bolt. Make sure all linkage rod clips are connected or not broken, especially the yellow folding clip. After various repair attempts, I ultimately ended up replacing both latches. You may have seen them, but jusin case here are two good threads that are not specific to your issue, but may be useful for the pics alone. Glad to help if at all possible, just ask. GL

door latch problem solved - temporarily maybe?? | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

How To: Drivers Exterior Door Handle Replacement | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

I didn't see anything broken. Like I said I found the spring laying in the latch before I took the panel off. I've already ordered a new latch from Parts geek. It's a Dorman for $44.93. I'm not sure I can put it in myself as I originally pulled one in the local pull a part and that was harder than I expected. Then I thought better about using a used part and I got an estimate of $93 to have it done by someone else since I don't have the confidence to do it myself. I never shied away from working on my 94 XLT but this I just can't get comfortable with.

 

[J_C]

If it's the spring that usually breaks in the latch mechanism (pictured below) you can pull the spring off the new latch and install into the old one from the latch opening on the door, using forceps or thin needle nose pliers (and some patience) , not having to get inside the door panel at all.

After replaced, lube up the whole thing with spray grease. When my rear door spring broke too, I wasn't in a hurry to fix it and just sprayed WD40 then grease and worked it in, and that worked without replacing the spring... but it didn't work for the front door so I replaced that spring as described... not sure why lube alone worked for one but not the other.

Anyway, since you have the part ordered already, swap that spring since it's known broken then dig deeper if that doesn't fix all symptoms.

 

[swshawaii]

Wish I could say there's an "easy" way to R&R door latches, but there really isn't. Problem is all latch rods must be disconnected and replaced in specific sequence. As you know, by removing one at the salvage yard, the difficulty is the confined space and limited visibility. I was really apprehensive about doing them myself, but succeeded after MUCH trial
and error. (Lot's of nicks and cuts too) Applaud you for your effort. Either way, keep us posted with your progress. GL

 

[fixt]

I just went through this with the driver door latch. As swshawaii says, there is no easy way out and its due to juggling the linkage in three dimensions while reinserting the latch to get a screw in it to hang it. I replaced mine and it wasn't too bad only took a couple of tries. Be careful with the little nylon latch rod end clip that opens up. Get the band aids out because it is tight in there. Curse a little, pray a little and good luck. Let us know how it goes. I think its a right regular pain in the arse myself.

EDIT: Same issue, broken spring

 

[XLTrunner]

Does anyone know exactly what the function of this thin spring is? Just discovered mine was broken on the front driver side. Lock rod was sluggish in moving up and down whether by door switch, key fob or keypad on door. Removed the broken spring and all seems to work just fine. Am wondering if it's even necessary to replace either the spring (as swshawaii mentions) or, the entire latch?

 

[J_C]

^ I couldn't get my driver's door to work again without replacing the spring, but when my driver's side rear door spring broke, it worked again by just lubing it... YMMV.

It "might" be that Ford found that grease alone isn't enough if it's very cold outside, that the grease gets too hard and a thin grease would have to be reapplied... something we can do, but they wouldn't expect the average customer to do.

Regardless if I were going to put a new latch mechanism in, I would file the sharp corner of that stamped piece the spring hook sits on, down to a sloped surface so it doesn't dig into the spring as much.

 

[XLTrunner]

Well...after initial problem seemed to be solved with removal of spring, the lock rod is still sluggish when trying to unlock the door; especially, after not being cycled for awhile. Once I cycle it a few times, it's better. Took the door panel off and played with the linkage. Definitely is not the lock actuator...and, appears to be something inside the latch that is binding. I can move the lock rod link or the actuator link around and it allows the rod it to move freely up and down temporarily. Looks like a new latch ass'y is in order.

 

[XLTrunner]

Just a follow-up for those who might be facing a similar problem. I purchased a Ford door latch as I was certain that was what was causing the occasional binding. Remember...the small spring had broken and, even though I fished it out of the latch, I wasn't sure it was or would be a problem in the future. Installed the new latch ass'y and same problem...wtf? I double-checked the install to make sure the linkage was where it was supposed to be and all was good. So, decided to swap a used lock actuator I had laying around. VOILA...I had the strongest lock/unlock action that I can remember since I bought it 7 yrs and 75K miles ago. I now think the small spring does have a purpose in allowing the latch to function properly each and every time, afterall. However, in my case a weak actuator was also adding to the problem.