'99 ohv 4.0 cam build

Im new to the forum, wondering if anyone has any suggestions or advice. Goal is to cam it, head milling,porting and polishing, and a single 2.5inch exhaust with a good 87 octane tune. Motor has 153k on it. All stock car. Parts list so far:

Sealed Power ZH2244 roller lifters, $40 a piece
Comp 49-422-8 camshaft, $300

As you can tell I need some advice on rods, valve springs, rocker arms, and gaskets, or anything else

thanks

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

Oh that scope is cool. If the leaks persists ill check it out. I tightened down the lower intake tonight. The bolts were not tight. I torqued them to specs originally but I guess the heat cycling settled things down. I replaced the oil filter adapter o-ring when I did the rear main seal. The bolt itself does have an o-ring on it but I decided that no oil could get past. The big o-ring about 3' diameter was likely leaking though. It didn't look so good and was smashed flat. but that bolt tapers to mate with the adapter. That sucker was damn tight, no way oil was getting past. I think you'll need to take the y-pipe off and go through the fender well to gain proper acces to the bolt. If you were wondering this is it

http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/sh...783567-p?searchTerm=Oil+filter+adapter+gasket

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

.......I think you'll need to take the y-pipe off and go through the fender well to gain proper acces to the bolt. If you were wondering this is it

http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/sh...783567-p?searchTerm=Oil+filter+adapter+gasket

Thanks for the tips, Sleeper. I had one side of the y-pipe
loose recently and reassembled it with anti-seize. No
problem with it; hope the other side comes loose easily.

The adapter bolt takes a 10mm hex/allen bit, right?
Do you torque it, or use the calibrated biceps method?
I'm guessing about 40 ft lbs?

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

Man I can't remember exactly. But I'm pretty sure we used a 10mm socket allen. With the y-pipe removed its pretty easy. Just take the wheel off, pop out the plastic button, pull the inner fender well back and you should have a direct line to it with an extension. I used 1/2" stuff and it gave a nice crack when popped loose. Its gonna be damn tight though. Yea specs are 40lbft but I just cranked it down by feel. The o-rings on the bolt looked good but the large one on the actual adapter was smashed flat. Just make sure you really clean it up nice to get a good seal.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

I bought a set of metric hex sockets just for this job.
This adapter bolt must be the only hex bolt on the
entire truck; never saw so many torx fasteners, though.
Seems like everything is held together with a torx,
from headbolts to the plastic ice shield.

Thanks for the wheelwell access tip.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Update

Sorry this isn't speed related, but just thought
I'd update my oil filter adapter leak fix. Just
finished today. The main O-ring was flat, the
small one on the bolt was brittle and broke when
removed. I too reused the green outside O-ring
since I didn't have a replacement. It still looked
good though, flexible and not deformed.

The hardest part was removing the Y-pipe. One bolt
was a bear, so I sprayed it with PB Blaster and quit
for the night. The following night it turned right out!
Couldn't believe it; this stuff really does dissolve
rust if you give it enough time.

Anyway, I fired it up while still on the ramps and
checked the adapter. No leaks. Glad to get this
job over with; hate to work underneath a car
these days.

Thanks again for the tips.

 

[jd4242]

Hell yea!!

 

[Dono]

Excellent.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

I envy your leak stopping skills!!!! Mine is still spewing. Going to try the oil filter again, then the pan. The worst part is I can't run it hard. As soon as it heats up the oil starts a flowin.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Thanks for the kind words guys, I appreciate it.

Sorry you still have a leak, Sleeper. The only thing
I can think of is maybe what Dono suggested;
the rear 'corners' of the oil pan where sealant is
required...???

 

[malohnes]

Sleeper...I have had a bad leak on my truck ever since I replaced my heads and ran new headers, cat and exhaust. I cured one thing, the oil filter adapter leak, but not the rear main seal. I still have LIM bolts that loosen up and leak oil every where after I torquee them back to spec. I torqued my intake and heads steps as prescribed and it sealed well, but still loosens up. So, I suggest you look there. I too have the Perma-dry valve cover gaskets and cured the leaks there but 6 months later they are leaking again. You are not the only one to have troubles with leaks...makes one batty!

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

Malohnes, are you sure your rear main is it? Im not sure if my rear main was ever really leaking. or the oil filter adapter housing for that matter. Those things just seemed to slow the leak. When I pulled the trans to change it there was a lot of oil sitting in the bellhousing but I dont know if that was just from it dripping through the holes above. Im 90% sure my cam sensor is the culprit. I have had the UIM off 4 times since I originally put it back together. Two times were the valve cover gaskets. I tightened the valve cover bolts by feel and they are now leak free, knock on wood lol. On the fourth UIM pull i inspected the LIM bolts. They were NOT tight. I chose to tighten by feel since the torque specs never held. I got them as tight as I felt comfortable on the aluminum.The leak is now very slow its still coming from around the top of the motor. It has to be the cam position sensor. I should have replaced it as it had some slop in it but I didnt. The o-ring looked good so I used it as it was. But there is no way Im tearing the motor apart one step shy of pulling the heads to access it. ill fix it when I do the next motor build. Until then it gets parked on the street for bad behavior

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

So the weather is getting a bit warmer and Im still without a fan. Ive been doing serious research for two weeks now and cant find a solution. The budget is $70. Hayden fan contoller is $36 but cant handle my MarkVIII fan. So I want to use a 100amp solendoid triggered by the controller to carry the load. Problem is when that fan kicks on its going to slam my electrical system. I want to use a soft start cicuit or variable speed switch but Ive had no luck in research. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

[malohnes]

No, I never looked in the the cam sensor since my leaks appear to come from above it and to the drivers side bank. Not alot, but still leaking. LIM bolts on this truck simply don't stay tight. I have a phenolic spacer and use bolts instead of studs to attach the upper intake. Thus a simple job of tightening the LIM bolts means messing with the whole upper section. The life of a working truck I guess.

The main leak still seems to be coming from the rear main seal. I can't see evidence of the oil coming form anywhere else. Strange, it is getting better now that spring is here and the temps are not below freezing. Anyway, when I replace the clutch and upgrade to the beefier 5 spd tranny this summer, I'll throw a new one on and see what happens.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

Malohnes.... The 5 speed is a blast. I think the 3rd gens had some stronger parts in their trans due to the SOHC. I havent done much looking but I think the synchros are better, or something like that:scratch: You should look into it if you havent already. I thought about modding mine buts its taking rip shifts lift a champ. I figured out the efan btw. Ill post some pics after about a week or so of testing.

 

[jd4242]

Malohnes.... The 5 speed is a blast. I think the 3rd gens had some stronger parts in their trans due to the SOHC. I havent done much looking but I think the synchros are better, or something like that:scratch: You should look into it if you havent already. I thought about modding mine buts its taking rip shifts lift a champ. I figured out the efan btw. Ill post some pics after about a week or so of testing.

Better synchros and lower first gear.called the m5od-hd.the lower first gear is a little much but the synchos can be bought and come with most rebuild kits.

 

[Dono]

really looking forward to your efan solution.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

When I build the bottom end Ill get the upgrade sychro rebuild kit. The Mark VIII fan is a monster. It works great with my home built budget circuit. I got a defective solenoid so Im making due with a starter solenoid for a '65 V8 stang for now. Its not for continuous use so it gets super hot. But the fan must be working for warm weather.

Plans for summer:
-1/4 mile passes. Have no idea what it'll run. Hoping for 14.99
-shorty headers
-upgraded y-pipe
-and if things go really well, 100 wet shot plus tune

 

[Dono]

Ive been looking at radiators. Desert cooler makes one for the ohv. They don't ship across the border though. Its a bit of an inconvenience for me, to say the least.

What I'd like to do, is go with a monster radiator, and then use a smaller fan. I have a big a$$ fan, but its really rattles under there sometimes. Makes my truck sound like a piece of crap. I will need to fix that.

What about using a rad out of a V8 designed for gen 2's?

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

I would think the v8 and v6 all use basically the same depth radiator. The Mark 8 fan fits beautifully. I turned it vertical and mounted it using the existing mounts for the old fan shroud. Mine does not rattle at all. What fan do you have? You aren't still running the 195 t-stat are you? Btw my fan was $25 at the junkyard.

 

[Dono]

I don't even know what fan I have. I think its a mark 8, but maybe a worn out one.

I have a fan off of a police interceptor. Now, that's a beast. It would take lots of work to mount it though. I really think more radiator, and less fan is the best solution.