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A/C died need advice

bls2dpj

Member
Joined
July 12, 2004
Messages
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City, State
Wichita, Kansas
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 XLT
I have a '97 Explorer 122,000 miles V6 SOHC.

My accumulator rusted and has died. The shop said my evaporator core is leaking too. I was told $1000 to replace parts and recharge.

I am thinking about replacing the parts myself (about $200) and then taking it back to the shop to pressurize & recharge. Any thoughts on this? Should I suck it up and pay the grand for them to do it?

Parts I would replace:
evaporator
accumulator
orifice tube
misc o-rings

any advice??

DJ
 



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Gatorblazer said:
If you have never done any AC work... well within the $800 you'll save doing this.
 






Well, I usually do my own work but my explorer has never needed anything other than the usual maintenance. I have no problem doing the work but just want to make sure that its a do-able project. The accumulator basically blew a hole in the side of the cansister so I don't have any pressure to deal with and the system has been exposed to the elements.

I am thinking about replacing the parts and then having the shop vaccum the system, re-oil and charge it, since, I don't have the tools for that part of the project.

Any other advice,
DJ
 






If all that has happened is that you had an accumulator rust out.... and lost the charge, the open system prolem would be fixed by the new accumulator. If you are on a tight budget, you COULD just replace the accumulator (those garter spring connectors can be a PITA ,but very DIY capable with the spring lock tools) and take it in to have the system pulled into a deep vacuum and then recharged. I'd put 2 oz of PAG oil in the accumulator when you install it.

I'll correct your usage of the term vacuumed...I am sure you meant evacuated but so many folks think evacuating a system is like vacuuming carpet. Of course it is not. You have a closed system that you pull into a very low vacuum state. Any moisture will boil in a vacuum (remember seeing that in physics in High School?) And after about 30-45 minutes the mnoisture will have boile away and been drawn out of the system, at which point refrigerant (134a in this case) will be introduced in the proper quantity.

I am doubtful anything else in your system is likely bad.... it WOULD be nice to check the orofice tube, but not do or die in your situation.
 






The springs you mentioned, is there a tool to help remove them? Do you happen to know if someone has documented the procedure, other than the lousy Clymer/Haynes manuals? maybe someone on the forum? I think if the orifice tube is easy to get to, I might as well replace it while its down. Any other suggestions of what to and not to replace? Are there many o-rings that need replacing? Sorry for all the questions.

DJ
 












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