AC not blowing cold

[Jack Daniel]

Update : Car was at the dealer today. They say a leak has run the system dry. They have to order compressor and new fittings and hoses. Service manager said it would normally be about a $2000 bill for repair. Thank goodness for ESP.
A couple of days for the parts, then I will update.

Jack

So it's been since July 24th, one part is still on back order...a little disappointing .

 

[peterk9]

So it's been since July 24th, one part is still on back order...a little disappointing .

That part will likely arrive when A/C is required anymore.

Peter

 

[Jack Daniel]

No doubt !

 

[Jack Daniel]

Just an update. The parts are finally here. It turns out they ordered the wrong part which caused the back order!
It goes in to my local dealer August 17 for repair . Needless to say I will not use Elliot Lake Ford again. The next closest dealer is a 2 hour drive . At this point I might take a loss to trade the vehicle on a different brand.
MANY THANKS to Benny at Levittown for helping 'educate' my dealer.

 

[Jack Daniel]

View media item 52910Today's excitement...smoke coming from under the hood, tow truck to the dealer.

 

[Jack Daniel]

Well the AC is finally repaired, thanks for the warranty ! Been since July 20th.

 

[1995E]

Hello,

My A/C for some reason stopped blowing cold air. I can hear the clutch engage. The system pressure was pretty high so I let out some pressure. Does anyone know what might be the culprit?

 

[MrQ]

Hello,

My A/C for some reason stopped blowing cold air. I can hear the clutch engage. The system pressure was pretty high so I let out some pressure. Does anyone know what might be the culprit?

As in the blower stopped working? Or its only blowing hot air? How often is the clutch cycling?

 

[1995E]

As in the blower stopped working? Or its only blowing hot air? How often is the clutch cycling?

I can hear the clutch engage every time I hit the A/C switch. I tried to check the system pressure and the pressure in the system seemed pretty high at 130 PSI on the low pressure side. I used a screwdriver and let out some of the pressure and it seemed like a lot of air coming out.

The blower blows just fine. I am unsure if the clutch is cycling.

 

[Odrapnew]

I can hear the clutch engage every time I hit the A/C switch. I tried to check the system pressure and the pressure in the system seemed pretty high at 130 PSI on the low pressure side. I used a screwdriver and let out some of the pressure and it seemed like a lot of air coming out.

The blower blows just fine. I am unsure if the clutch is cycling.

You sure you checked the low pressure side?
If I remember right, low pressure side should be less than 50psi when the compressor is running.
It'll be higher when the compressor is not engaged, but I don't think it should be 130psi.
Have you ever had the A/C system recharged(or evacuated and recharged)?

I'm not sure where the A/C compressor is on this vehicle.
Are you able to have someone hit the A/C switch and see if the compressor is actually engaging?
It might be trying to engage, but not staying on.

Also, you should see the low side pressure drop when the clutch engages.

 

[KayGee]

After reading the last few posts, I think the best course of action would be to take the vehicle to a shop for a proper diagnosis and written estimate of repairs.

 

[1995E]

You sure you checked the low pressure side?
If I remember right, low pressure side should be less than 50psi when the compressor is running.
It'll be higher when the compressor is not engaged, but I don't think it should be 130psi.
Have you ever had the A/C system recharged(or evacuated and recharged)?

I'm not sure where the A/C compressor is on this vehicle.
Are you able to have someone hit the A/C switch and see if the compressor is actually engaging?
It might be trying to engage, but not staying on.

Also, you should see the low side pressure drop when the clutch engages.

I am sure it was the low pressure side as that one is the one with the smaller port. I double checked the low pressure side, it is high for some reason.

I got the trouble codes below
B1081:13 and B1082:13 code is being given.

Left and right temperature damper motor. Not sure what this code means.

Just checked the pressure with a manifold gauge... the low side and high side are both at 50PSI... I am guessing I need a new compressor.

 

[Napalm]

you might have a bad expansion valve. Prior to entering the cabin there should be a spot to take off the line before it goes to the firewall and the evaporator. At that junction there should be a replaceable cartridge of sorts - and in there is a screen and bit of a cone shape. I've not taken apart a explorer AC but all 134 systems have these. And they are meant to be replaceable. If it's plugged up, the restriction causes the pressures to be off - and that can trigger the 2 pressure sensors to cause the computer not to run the compressor.

Or not cycle it. Somewhere there is a shop manual for the car will have the steps to troubleshoot the AC system. ALso which year is yours? I think the new ones use the new variable displacement compressors - so no clutch wheel. It will spin and inside a swash plate and spring system balance the pistons displacement against the PSI load demand such that it spins all the time but doesn't necessarily always produce high pressure. Many newer cars have these - I don't know if Ford uses them now or not. GM does as does Honda.

There is another system that uses a scroll compressor and it is also clutchless and always spins but internally there is a computer controled regulator and bypass valve so it will allow it to almost freewheel. I don't think the explorer uses this. ALso if you have 3 zone AC - there might be another expansion valve

 

[KayGee]

B1081:13Left Temperature Damper Motor: Circuit open
B1082:13Right Temperature Damper Motor: Circuit open

There are specific pinpoint tests in the workshop manual that should be done to determine the appropriate repair (fix wiring/connection, replace actuator, replace HVAC module, reflash HVAC module with new calibration, etc..). I don't recall of the top of my head if Forscan has a self test or reset option for this or not.


Normal Operation

To rotate the temperature blend door actuator, the HVAC module supplies voltage and ground to the temperature blend door actuator through the door actuator motor circuits. To reverse the temperature blend door actuator rotation, the HVAC module reverses the voltage and ground circuits.

The temperature blend door actuator feedback resistors are supplied a ground from the HVAC module by the temperature blend door actuator return circuits and a 5-volt reference voltage on the temperature blend door actuator reference circuits. The HVAC module reads the voltage on the temperature blend door actuator feedback circuits to determine the temperature blend door actuator position by the position of the actuator feedback resistor wiper arm.

During an actuator calibration cycle, the HVAC module drives the temperature blend door until the door reaches both internal stops in the HVAC case. If the temperature blend door is temporarily obstructed or binding during a calibration cycle, the HVAC module may interpret this as the actual end of travel for the door. When this condition occurs and the HVAC module commands the actuator to its end of travel, the airflow may not be the expected temperature.

Best of luck.

 

[Napalm]

OH and take out your cabin air filter when you check your AC system pressures. If it is clogged up and blocking flow air - you could be running higher pressure because there's not enough heat exchange going on at the evap

 

[KayGee]

OH and take out your cabin air filter when you check your AC system pressures. If it is clogged up and blocking flow air - you could be running higher pressure because there's not enough heat exchange going on at the evap

If his pressures are still high, he can just let some more "air" out of the system.

 

[Napalm]

Sorry but no that's not quite how it works. your AC system is meant to have a flow rate - it's not a tire. If the pressure is too high on one end or worse both ends - you have a flow problem that is most likely a blockage.

Now what I described eariler doesn't mean your compressor is bad - sadly though it doesn't mean that it isn't going bad.

OH and whatever you do when you recharge make sure you get some oil in there. Regardless of style all new compressors leak out a bit as a lubrication and control method for the bearings - they are meant to require a recharge occasionally and thus new oil.

 

[KayGee]

I know how it works, that's why I put "air" in quotes...

If his AC wasn't blowing cold (blowing warm instead) and he had the 2 codes all along, it may not even be an issue with his compressor and may have been an actuator or HVAC module issue.

 

[new to ford]

I haven't posted in a while. The AC on our 2011 FORD explorer XLT stopped working. It blows air but does not cool.
I have an appointment at the dealer on Monday but will check out fuse #62 for the AC compressor clutch.

Any other pointers?
thanks,

 

[peterk9]

If the clutch is working, you should be able to hear it clicking in. Coolant could be low or possible an A/C line leak. Let us know what the dealer finds. Thanks.

Peter