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Adding a '99 roof rack to a '92, a few Qs

Discussion in 'Modified Explorations!!' started by akcrogers, May 14, 2002.

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  1. akcrogers

    akcrogers Active Member

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    '92 Explorer 4WD 4DR XL
    How should I attach a factory rack on an that didn't have one?

    I've been planning on going to the junkyard for a few weeks now to look for a factory rack to put on my '92. So today I went. They have their new arrivals out in front, and I saw a totalled '99 with a rack when I pulled up. Further inspection showed it to be in near perfect condition. This X got t-boned right between the front and back seets, the pillar was a good 2 feet inside the car. Somehow, even though the roof buckled in several places, the rack was perfect. The driver side rail was a little twisted, but not bad, and one of the little upside down Ts that holds the crossbar in the channel was broken, not a big deal. They told me $50, I told them I wasn't sure if it would work and showed them the twist and the broken T, and offered $20, which they accepted.

    So, one of the amazing things is that the rain chanels on the roof are in exactly the same places on a '99 and a '92, so the rack fits perfectly. My Question is how should I attatch the rails. I see a couple of options,
    1. Doublesided 3M tape... this holds on both my scoops and my spoiler, would probably hold the rack, but it will be carrying snowboards, which might create a lot of drag. I would hate for it to rip off with $2000 (4 snowboards) on the roof.
    2. Drill some holes, silicon the crap out of the holes, and then screw the rails on.
    3. Use liquid nails to hold it on?
    4. A combination of 1 & 2, drill and silicon holes, and use 3M tape also.

    Any ideas or recommendations?
    Thanks
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2002
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  3. akcrogers

    akcrogers Active Member

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    Anyone? I'd like to put it on tonight if posible, so any opinions would be great.
     
  4. akcrogers

    akcrogers Active Member

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    please, anyone??
     
  5. akcrogers

    akcrogers Active Member

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    btt
     
  6. JoshC

    JoshC Only rolled it once honey

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    I've got an after market rack that came with little sheet metal screws(sucks) that are wrapped in silicon. It worked great until i stripped on out. I don't know how they are suppose to be put on, how did you take it off, was it screwed in? If so i then i'd do it just like it was with 3M tape to act as a sealant for the rest of it so water doesn't get under it, just a thought.

    Happy trails!!
     
  7. Blake D

    Blake D Active Member

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    I ws thinking about this as well. I have no rack and want to put one on. I would like to eventually get a Safarii style so I think 3M would be out of the question. I am wanting to secure a rack holder for extra storage of suitcases so it needs to be strong.
    Someone told me that silicon attracts water so after time it could help cause leaks.
    I wonder if a boat supply place could have something.
    Please keep us up to date and anyone out there with the answer let us know!
    Thanks
    Blake
     
  8. akcrogers

    akcrogers Active Member

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    I ended up using some good coarse #12 countersunk screws about 1/2 inch long. Stuck the rack up top using silcon, drilled the holes, siliconed it some more, and then put the screws in. Feels sturdy.
     
  9. Blake D

    Blake D Active Member

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    did you remove the headliner?
    Do you think that will be strong enough to hold a safarri rack or luggage container? How did you decide how far left and right/ front to back to go?
    Please let me know as soon as you can I want to get this underway! :D

    THANKS
    Blake
     
  10. akcrogers

    akcrogers Active Member

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    I just measured it out so it was dead cener, Plus I looked at the top of the 99 I took the rack off, so I had a pretty good idea of where it was supposed to sit. It sits about an inch forward of where the rear hatch-gap is. Don't know if you've looked at the roof or not, but there are rain channels that are evenly spaced... you just center it up on the raised sections. I just put the rack all together and tightened it down so it was the right width, and set it up there, a couple trips side to side was all it took to make sure it was even. I didn't remove the headliner, I was just super careful when drilling. It feels pretty strong, its not going to move very easily, however, if you really wanted to be extra sure, I would remove the headliner and drill the holes, then use nuts and bolts rather than screws. Stick all the bolts through, and then stick a big round washer on and then a lock washer, and finally one of those nuts with the rubber thingy thats supossed to keep them from backing off. Get bolts that are just a couple centimeters longer than this, you don't want too short, and too long will poke into the headliner and look funny. That would be the long, drawn out, pita way to do it. I'm happy with the screws.
     
  11. Blake D

    Blake D Active Member

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    Any testing for leaks yet? Have you heard about silicon attracting moisture or is that incorrect?
    Thanks for your help!

    Your truck looks SWEET! I couldn't tel from the pics, do you still have the light bar on top?
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2002
  12. Chris Collorafi

    Chris Collorafi New Member

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    I've put aftermarket racks on cars at my old job with the same screws, suppose to be good up to 100 lbs. If you want ot to be stronger you could drill the holes a little bigger and put some of those ( i can't remember what they are called) things that you tighten in the hole and it compresses behind the sheet metal. I've used them to hold down the shelving units in vans and they're strong. Those unit's hold alot more than 100lbs though.
     
  13. Blake D

    Blake D Active Member

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    Chris what do you use to keep water out? Silicon or something else? Would you drill, screw or bolt in, then silicon on top of the screw and under the headliner, or silicon then screw into it? I just want the best way to keep out water and look good.
    PS if you find out what they are called or where you can get those "things that tighten up" please let me know

    Thanks
    Blake
     
  14. akcrogers

    akcrogers Active Member

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    I think that is wrong about silicon, but I'm not sure. I do know that PIAA has started making silicon wiper blades because its water repellant, and makes the water ball up (like rain-x). I comercial fished for a few years, and we used silicon on everything. There were a few small holes in the boat that we patched by puting a piece of sheetmetal on eather side of the hole, and loading the space inbetween with silicon, and then riveting it together. The holes never leaked in the two years I was on that boat.

    Here is my complete rack install process:
    1. Washed roof with good soapy water, and dried.
    2. Set rack on roof and positioned it where I wanted it.
    3. Drilled holes.
    4. Removed rack
    5. Put a pretty good-sized bead of silicon around all of the drilled holes.
    6. Set rack back on roof and realigned holes.
    7. Put a glob of silicon on each one of the holes.
    8. Tightened screws down, careful not to tighten too far and strip the hole.
    9. Put a glob of silicon on top of the screw, and spread it thin with a stick.
    10. Done

    I haven't tested to see how waterproof it is, but I doubt it will leak very much. I don't know what those expanding screws are called, but I know what he is talking about. You use them in sheetrock too. Basically, threading the screw in causes a metal backing to expand and snug tight with whatever surface its against. That would probably work exceptionally well for the roofrack, but again, I think my method is plenty strong.

    Hope this helps
     
  15. Blake D

    Blake D Active Member

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    THANK YOU!!!!!!!!
    I will plan on doing this. I will try to find those things you are talking about, (any suggestions?) if not then I will use the bolt and washer method.
    Since I am putting one on anyway is a rack from a different vehicle any better than a stock one? I know the ex has a different style from vans etc (two channles withe the cross members vs two upraised rails with flat crossmembers) Is one stronger than the other or should mabye I try to get a longer one than stock?or would the roof not handle a larger/ longer one?
    Just curious about this thanks for all the help!!!!!!
    Blake
     
  16. akcrogers

    akcrogers Active Member

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    The biggest thing would be to make sure that the rack is the right width. You don't want the rails to sit down in the rain channels, that would definitely increase the chances of leaking. You want a rack that will sit on the raised portion of the roof. Other than that I don't see why a longer rack wouldn't be okay.
     
  17. Chris Collorafi

    Chris Collorafi New Member

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    Well When i put the roof racks on i they come with this coating on the threads that's suppose to seal the hole as you screw them in. It's not alot and doesn't look like it seals but i never had one come back in the 4 years i've done them. As far as sealing them silicon works fine. I.ve sealed sunroofs, Raised roofs, visors over the windshield and it works fine. Another way you could seal it up is with butyl tape. We use that to seal up the sunroofs. Basiclly it's this black sticky stuff that you can put around and in the holes and it'll squeeze out the sides to seal. Then you just peal off the extra that squeezed out. As far as those things that compress behind the metal, i have no clue what they're called, wish i did, but i think you can get them at a home depot or a hardware store, just make sure you get a large enough one but not to big so it shows. But that's only if you need it stronger. It after market rack i installed could hold those clamshell carriers, basically about 100lbs and those racks were cheap. The ford rack should be stronger. give it a shot, if i find out what those things are called i'll let you guys know.
     
  18. Blake D

    Blake D Active Member

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    Thanks for the info, should i install the slat things that go on the roof in the guttering? Or are they just to help from scratching paint? (I think it would give me just that many more holes to watch for leaks)
     
  19. akcrogers

    akcrogers Active Member

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    Those are riveted on originally, and I didn't have a drill with me, so I didn't take them. More holes that might leak for sure.
     
  20. Blake D

    Blake D Active Member

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    Thanks! What are those slats for anyone know?
     
  21. JoshC

    JoshC Only rolled it once honey

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    If you set something inside the cross members, those slats keep what ever it is off the paint so it doesn't get scratched. Pretty nice i guess.

    Happy trails!!
     

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