Adventure trailer build thread.

Rated "I/A" for Immature Adult content! Stop, and close this page if you can't handle Silly, foul, and obnoxious adult content!

Intro:
This is not a common build here on this forum, but this build is part of another long term build, that has been going on for 10 years now. I feel it is fitting to share this build here, since so much of it's companion is documented on EF. This thread is as detailed as my patience has allowed. I want to be able to help others that might be searching for methods/ideas, and "how to" for much of the build. I do belong to other Overland forums, and will link this thread from them, to share with others.

About:
This trailer is a short compact, stout, capable, high clearance, Swiss army knife of a camper. It is not a popup camper, nor is it a sleep in hard shell camper. It will offer all the creature comforts those do, but in a little different fashion. This style trailer, makes you enjoy the outdoors. You cook/dine, lounge & hot shower outside, but you sleep inside a roomy insulated roof top tent, 78" off the ground.

The tow rig:

The Black Hole

The entire build for the tow rig, has always been with this build in mind, and it has been extremely difficult to keep that to myself, and why it was built the way it was. It is a purpose build, with a specific objective.

The Objective:
To be the living quarters and storage, for off the beaten path journeys yet to come.
To have everything needed to sustain myself, and a few others, out in the middle of nowhere, only accessible by unpaved trails, such as old mining roads. Hauling all the boondocking gear behind, instead of overloading the vehicle's suspension. To minimize setup and tear down times for camping, and have camping items readily accessible, whenever needed.

The trailer needs to be capable of following wherever the tow rig goes. Matching tires, axle width, and the same, if not more height clearance as the tow rig. Sleeping & shelter for 4 comfortably, sustainable cold food storage, food prep space, gas powered cooking, AC/DC power supply, and hot showers for days at a time, are all the requirements for this build.

Goal:

This is the other half of that long term build plan. I am slow at the building and fabricating process, and this will take about a year to complete. Updates will happen as the build progresses. I have entered the 7th month of the build, and expect another 3-4 months left to get it road worthy at the least. Just like anything I have done, it never ends, and improvements will happen, as I gain experience & knowledge with what works best for me.

Baby steps:

This is the first time I have ever attempted anything like this. I am bound to make mistakes, and corrections/improvements are all but a guarantee. I do have a final vision for what I want this to be, as it has been a thought process for many many years now. Please bear with me as this thread goes. Some items won't make sense until it comes to be. I am not going to tell you how things should be done. I am just sharing how I did things on this build. Agree/disagree, like it or leave it, it's mostly a learning experience by mixing what I know, and what I had to learn, to get things as I want them. Definitely not for everybody. Heck, I know I will change things down the road, as I find ways to improve on it. That is part of the fun!



Why am I building this?
I'm Tired of ground tent camping all my life. Tired of the time it takes to set up & tear down. Tired of all the tedious packing, unpacking, moving things from place to place after every trip. Plus, I don't want a motor home that can't leave the roads.
I plan on getting lost a few times, venturing out to places unknown and unseen. We live in a large, beautifully gifted geographical location on the planet. Our own back yard is filled with amazing spectacles. Places that can only be seen on dirt trails, off the beaten paths, not by roads covered in pavement, and delivery trucks. Exploring into the dark hours of the night, and setting camp in the middle of nowhere, instead of heading back. We can traverse a lot of ground this way.

Kudos:

A few friends helped with this build, and I couldn't have got as far as it is without them. Special thanks to James, Matt, Kurt, Ryan, & Jacob. You guys rock!

A warning from the author:

This thread contains: Long drawn out boring tedious explanations, Dry humor, embarrassing anecdotes, speech in the 3rd person, countless pictures, and some content is for Mature audiences. There is a little for everybody here, but be warned, this is not your typical build thread, and not from your typical builder. I am not responsible for your emotional mood swings, due to reading this material.

Edit: Progress pics as of 10/15/18. Getting closer every day!

First real use!

Current specs:
Main Frame- 12'.5"L x 48"W
Whopping 25" of ground clearance with 35" tires
Fenders- 72" Long x 14.00" Wide tapered to 0.00" in front
Cabin- 48"W x 72"L x 36"H
Overall Width - 76"
Overall Height - 68" Roof Rack lowered - 78" Roof Rack lifted
Overall Height- 80" With RTT stowed - 140" RTT open & rack lifted
Dry weight- 2300#'s

2"x3"x3/16" Steel Tube Frame, with 1 pc center tongue beam from front to rear.
3500 Lb Timbren Axleless Independent suspension
10" Electric brakes
35"x12.5" Goodyear MTR's w/kevlar & matching spare
15"x10" Mickey Thompson black satin aluminum wheels
Lock N Roll off road articulating Hitch
14 Ga steel cabin walls & roof
3/4" Ply floor, stained, sealed, & 5 topcoats of acrylic gloss clear
Commercial 60 Mil Waterproof TPO membrane under belly skin
12 Ga steel Fenders on Sq frame & 2" x 3/16" Round slider tubes
Spare tire mount on cabin front
16 Ga swing out 4'W x 2'D x 24"H Tapered Tongue box
16 Ga Side boxes with Tapered front compartments
Telescoping Roof rack (12") with scissor jack actuation
Two rear 31" BAL C leveling jacks & swivel plate base
Dual 5K swivel weld ring flat plate base Tongue jacks
ARK dual wheel offroad 750 HD Tongue jack
Slider system for hidden Solar panel storage
Dual 11 lb Propane tank storage mounts
Quick Disconnect Water supply
All Stainless & Aluminum hardware, where applicable

Interior:
Front compartment 48"Wx24"Lx36"H
Two side doors, and upper 12 ga shelf with expanded metal rear wall
Rear Compartment 48"Wx48"Lx36"H
3/4" PT wood flooring, custom finish, clear satin marine topcoats.
Tie downs on frame tubes
1-60W Led rear cabin, 3-10w Led front cabin
Wiring plumbed with flex and hard conduit
Split cabin with full rear cabin deck, tie down racks

Power:
Dual Group 31 MAGM deep cycle 110 AH batteries
110 shore
100W Renogy Solar
Charge:
NOCO Marine 110v 20 amp onboard Dual smart charger
30 amp Renogy MPPT Solar charger
140 amp traveling vehicle charge, via smart charger
Soon to come: 40 amp-500 watt DC-DC charger from alternator
Portable Valence 80Ah Lifepo4 Solar Gen w/inverter

Accessories:
4 season 23Zero 73" Walkabout RTT W/ large Annex room - telescopic ladder w/rung pads- Ext shoe bags-Led lights- 3" thick x Ca King mattress w/anti condensation mat.
Oversized high density 3" thick 56" x 96" mattress. Cold weather cover, additional secondary rain fly.
Rhino Rack 8.5' Bat Wing 270* Wrap around Awning (2019 version)
5Liter - 1.5 gpm - On demand instant hot water heater
ARB/ViAir 150 psi onboard air system
Ready Welder II
Slide out Kitchen/storage- 1/2" Baltic Birch, sealed/stained/clear coats 350# slides
ICECO VL45 portable fridge/freezer - AC/DC
Custom powder coated locking Fridge slide out.
Wireless controlled winch (upper roof rack storage, rear bumper hitch receiver)
Rear door interior fold down table
Dual 11 lb propane tanks (rear fender mounted)
Marine control panel, rocker switches w/circuit breakers, 12v battery meter, Aux outlets
30 gallon fresh water tank & 3.0 gpm instant on pump w/ inline filter
Trailer Harness Connection lock box
First Aid field kit (large)
Dual Fire Extinguisher's

LED Lighting:
Front- 2-45w dual pods w/amber fogs
Sides- 4-18w pods
Rock- 4-10w blue IP 67
Cabin- 1-60w 3 setting round rear compartment ceiling fixture, 3-10w pods front compartment
Tails/brakes/turns- 30w 6" oval
Reverse- 30w 6" oval
Markers- 3w red & amber
7 pin RV trailer harness & J box

Tongue box build:
Full box tube frame & 16 ga sheet, w/plate and tube gussets
Dual battery mount tray
Red oak Shelf for Noco dual 20 amp charger, 20amp solar charger, 12v systems (3) circuit breakers, fuse panel, main power cutoff switch
3 space divider walls & front storage shelf
Gas lift struts, 2"x 3/16" thick Aluminum lid hinge
Dual SS locking paddle latch handles
Dual 4" SS louvered vents w/bug screens
Pass thru power cord outlet with weatherproof door hatch
NOCO 110v wall power plug w/ weatherproof cover
2k locking latch to frame, & dual 7/16" clevis pins to frame
5/8" spindle for swivel action, for spare tire removal/security

Paint:
Frame- Chassis saver gloss black
Cabin Exterior- Acid etch primer & Single stage Gloss Black automotive 2k urethane
Cabin Interior- SW DTM Gloss White
Side & T boxes, All doors- Urethane Epoxy primer & Single stage Gloss Black 2k Urethane
Roof rack- Chassis saver gloss black
Fenders-Acid etch primer underneath & Urethane base topside, Black Raptor liner w/grip additive

Trim: Aluminum



Lots to add to that list up there, and I will as the build progresses.

I hope you enjoy the thread, as much as I have enjoyed the build itself.

 

[Mbrooks420]

The electrical controls guy says nice looking wiring.

 

[gmanpaint]

Sweeeeet!!!

 

[gmanpaint]

I am replacing all the exterior hex head trim/panel bolts out with Stainless hardware. I originally planned on spraying the trim & bolt heads with UV clear coating, but have changed my mind on doing that. Reason being is I want to remove all the trims, and place thin rubber washers between the trim and body panels. All the aluminum trim will still get coated, but while loose. While I am doing that, I will use new hardware, might as well go with stainless.

So I need to choose a style to use. There are 125 total to replace, so now is the time to make the choice, as these aren't cheap, and constant removal/install will only destroy the threaded holes in the 1/8" wall frame tubes.

Tell me what you think. Here are the choices....

SS Hex head, like already installed.

SS Phillips

SS Randolph

SS Truss Phillips. These have a thinner flatter head.

The Hex heads give it an industrial look, but they really stand out. I don't know, if that is a good or a bad thing.


What say you Explorer Forum?

 

[CDW6212R]

If the non hex head bolts have large tool inserts in them, a #3 Phillips for example, I'd prefer those. If they tool used to remove them is small, like a #2 Phillips, avoid those if possible. Stripping any bolt because the tool doesn't hold it well, is bad, and we all know how much a pain typical Phillips screws are. The #3 sized screws rarely will do that, and I think the same will be the case with good sized Allen or Torx tools. If you think one might be a problem, use something else, the hex headed bolts won't do that in light duty applications.

So I vote for the one you like the best, as long as the tool size is bigger than average.

 

[gmanpaint]

These are a #12 18-8. Unfortunately, the Phillips & Randolph style SS only come in #2.

I also prefer the hex bolt heads for reasons of stripping, but replacing these after install, will be extremely low, for the future. The hex heads are the clear winner for stripping reasons, but... because of the amount of them, they do play into the overall look of this trailer.

SS bolts of this size are difficult to work with, as SS is brittle, and they do snap in half a lot easier than galvanized steel versions. It's a catch 22. Strip the Phillips slots, or snap the heads off.

 

[gmanpaint]

Not sure how others spend a Holiday, but I changed out the brake wires to 10 awg today. Only took me 4.5 hrs.

Happy Easter All!

 

[toypaseo]

Torx?

 

[Mbrooks420]

I’d go with square (I know these as Robertson?) or Torx.

 

[gmanpaint]

I didn't see any SS torx from my supplier in the #12's x 3/4". Those would be much better than Phillip's for sure.

I've always called the sq bits Randolph, but if others call em Roberts, that increases my searches for pricing. these also work well, and are common in SS screws, but mostly in wood screws for decking.

Guess I'm curious to what others think about the hex head look, before I choose. They look industrial to me, and not sure it fits with the look of this thing. Smaller heads will not stand out as much, and be more streamlined.

Just don't know what to do here. Lol

 

[CDW6212R]

I really like the Torx head bolts, but the applications are somewhat limited.

 

[toypaseo]

I think a low profile pancake head or wafer head would look good...

 

[gmanpaint]

Pancake looks the same as Truss heads. I am considering those, if they come in something other than Phillips. Haven't seen those wafer heads before. I will search them out, to see if they come in stainless or not.

I have decided to stay away from anything in Phillips. I have some counter sunk Phillips flat heads, holding the main walls to the frame, and thinking back to install, I hated them. Stripped out at least 25% of them while installing, but that's what I had at the time. That's back when it was first being built, and over 100 miles away from home, and was pressed for time each and every day, I was there working on this thing. Stopping to go find different screws in BFE, wasn't an option. Live & learn.

 

[Dono]

And...I like the hex head. Maybe not as pretty, but for practical reasons its sure nice. Doesn't fill with crud, no real issues of stripping the head, etc.
In my opinion, the phillips head looks the nicest, since its the flattest.

edit: I missed the last couple of posts....Busy working while I'm browsing/replying. I like flat....

 

[Turdle]

You'll need to use some washers under the head anyway because of how the threads run out when attaching sheet metal. You'll see what i mean once you get going.
since you are concerned with appearance I suggest an upholstery ( flush finish) washer which makes screws appear more flush. several styles out there.

 

[gmanpaint]

Yep, already accounted for. I have a couple hundred rubber washers that have aluminum washers on top of them. They are used on all the existing screws as is. I am doing all this because, I am adding a 2nd setup under the trim, to the panels to seal them up tight.

With the aluminum trim, and the two rubber washers with alum washers, there is 1/4" gap between the heads and the body panel. The washers I am installing work on any #12 bolt/screw.

Also have to stick with a metal screw with 18-8 thread, as the frame tubes are already tapped for them, and the holes drilled in the panels are for this size, and I'm not going bigger, as that would require paint work.

 

[BKennedy]

Torx or square. If you use a hex head screw, you run the risk of scratching the paint with the socket.

 

[gmanpaint]

Torx or square. If you use a hex head screw, you run the risk of scratching the paint with the socket.

Lol

 

[traveler]

Low profile. You'll agree as soon as you catch a finger (or anything else) on the screw head sticking out. It does happen. Besides the low profile gives it a much cleaner look.

 

[gmanpaint]

If I can find the truss heads in something other than Phillips, and in the size needed, think those are the way to go.

Jon, I will try to find a couple of those washers, and see how the rubber washers fit under them. I am using flat heads for a flush fit, so not sure if these will help any. Thanks tho.

Edit: I used pan heads for the body panels, and had to countersink each one with a special bit, to make the heads flush with the panels. That was a royal PITA, but was worth it in the end.

 

[gmanpaint]

On tonight's episode of....... Night Shade!!....The builder was bored, and hot glued some junk together.


Staring at a pile of cut off scraps, then the trailer, then the scraps, then the trailer,..... a light came on.

Test fit for my brain fart idea was a success. Talley Ho Scallywags!! Let's do this.....

Broke out the chop saw, the welder, some clamps, and the gloves. Wasn't long before I had a nose full of black soot, and this thing came to be.

More on this after it's finished and installed, stay tuned for the next episode of..........

Night Shade!!