Amp and Sub installation

[mwoods269]

2013 explorer limited with sony sound.

Ran the power cable through the small gromet behind the glove compartment.
this seem like a slightly different location than my 2011 XLT
routed power wire through the front engine stabilizer bar over to the battery.
wiring remote amp wire into fuse panel
locating amplifier underneath the passenger seat as there seems to be no other place to put it. Grounding the amp to the seat post
pulled rear passenger panel and found sony amplifier was mounted there as well
appears the subwoofer has 2 voice coils
spliced in to those two sets of wires installed a 3 way switch
this will allow me to turn on my factory sub when I'm unable to carry around my aftermarket sub enclosure. when my sub enclosure is in the vehicle I can simply flip the switch

Questions: can I simply twist the pairs of wires to the subwoofer together to a line level converter?

Notes: removing the rear panel was a complete pain. removing the screws around the subwoofer did nothing and I was still unable to remove it.

I have a few pictures I can post after I'm finished.

 

[peterk9]

2013 explorer limited with sony sound.

Ran the power cable through the small gromet behind the glove compartment.
this seem like a slightly different location than my 2011 XLT
routed power wire through the front engine stabilizer bar over to the battery.
wiring remote amp wire into fuse panel
locating amplifier underneath the passenger seat as there seems to be no other place to put it. Grounding the amp to the seat post
pulled rear passenger panel and found sony amplifier was mounted there as well
appears the subwoofer has 2 voice coils
spliced in to those two sets of wires installed a 3 way switch
this will allow me to turn on my factory sub when I'm unable to carry around my aftermarket sub enclosure. when my sub enclosure is in the vehicle I can simply flip the switch

Questions: can I simply twist the pairs of wires to the subwoofer together to a line level converter?

Notes: removing the rear panel was a complete pain. removing the screws around the subwoofer did nothing and I was still unable to remove it.

I have a few pictures I can post after I'm finished.

Hi Mike. I think you may have better luck in getting an answer if you post this is in the 'Modified' section. I believe there are some members there that have also installed after market subs and they may be able to give you some advice on this.

Peter

 

[13Sport]

Questions: can I simply twist the pairs of wires to the subwoofer together to a line level converter?

1) I would always solder audio related connections
2) The problem w/ simply splicing off the amp output is there is a "feature" of the stock amp (or deck, I never figured out which) in where it stops raising the level of the bass after about 40% volume. I think they did this to stop you from blowing stock speakers, but at any rate it causes bass to fall off at half volume and over.

If it is the deck doing the fall off then there's not much you can do, and splicing the low level line outputs is fine. If its the amp doing the fall off then you should be splicing the high level input lines and using a sound processor/line converter to get the true bass out of the system.

 

[deewan]

Notes: removing the rear panel was a complete pain. removing the screws around the subwoofer did nothing and I was still unable to remove it.

I have a few pictures I can post after I'm finished.

You must remove the sub enclosure. There is a bolt on the backside of the enclosure that is screwed into the backside of the subwoofer driver. To remove the enclosure, if I recall correctly, you need to remove one or two screws on a metal support arm coming off the enclosure and left the entire enclosure up and away.