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?Any tips on replacing front struts?

Discussion in 'Stock 2002 - 2005 Explorers' started by jakedrew, September 3, 2010.

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  1. jakedrew

    jakedrew Active Member

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    Front left strut is leaking. It clunks a little bit and has a loose feeling in the front over bumps.

    I was doing the brakes today, and while in there I sprayed down the strut bolts with some penatrating oil.

    SO basically I have to remove the top 3 nuts, the big nut/bolt on the bottom, "fanagle" the strut out of there and swap the old spring/ mounts onto the new strut. ?
    Anything that I should be be aware of ? What not to do?

    Thanks.

    jake
     
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  3. jakedrew

    jakedrew Active Member

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    Also what struts do you guys recommend? Oem? Monroe? Kyb I seen on ebay? where is the cheapest place to get struts?
     
  4. BigRondo

    BigRondo USMC 1371 Elite Explorer Moderator Emeritus

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    Some guys have installed StrutTek with favorable results.
     
  5. coled43

    coled43 Member

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    Rock Auto has Monroe Quick Struts (new spring and strut assembled) for under $300/pair shipped. I'm getting ready to do this on mine. I read somewhere that you undo the sway bar to let the contol arm come open more. When I did the rears, I got a 13mm racheting box end flex head wrench for the top nuts that made it much easier.
     
  6. jakedrew

    jakedrew Active Member

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    thanks for the replies. (keep them coming).

    I seen rock auto prices.

    My local parts store wants 100$ for the monroe strut, and 180$ for the quick strut.

    I dont have a problem removing the spring and mount. I understand the ease of replacement of the quick struts. - just unbolt the old one, put in the new one.
     
  7. brpavers

    brpavers New Member

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    Rock auto has the Monroe Quik Strut for $140 ea, plus a rebate for buy 3 get the forth free. I think I will go this route. The haynes Book of Lies says you have to compress the spring to get the assembly back in. Any truth to that or are they carrying over the idea from installing a shock and not the strut spring assembly. I just had it aligned. Will it need to be realigned?

    The alignment shop wants $750 for the full job. Good guys, but I could stand to save the money right now.
     
  8. BigRondo

    BigRondo USMC 1371 Elite Explorer Moderator Emeritus

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  9. brpavers

    brpavers New Member

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    Thanks for the reply. Yes. I saw those threads. sounds like the assembly will not require the use of the spring compressor, but will require a good lever to push the control arm down. Right? Any advice on the alignment.:)
     
  10. BigRondo

    BigRondo USMC 1371 Elite Explorer Moderator Emeritus

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    I have not done this yet on my Ex so I can't speak from experience. No spring compressor required. Take the old assembly out and put the new one in using the lever. Not sure about the alignment. Better to err on the side of caution and get the alignment to be safe.
     
  11. matt0248

    matt0248 Active Member

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    The best thing abou tthe quick struts is you get teh new springs, which is a high failure rate item on these. I would recommend the quick struts if you have never replaced the springs before
     
  12. BigRondo

    BigRondo USMC 1371 Elite Explorer Moderator Emeritus

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    I agree. Have you checked these out? A few guys have installed them with favorable results:

    Prime Choice Quick Struts
     
  13. brpavers

    brpavers New Member

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    Thanks. I might just stay with the Monroes. The product cost is the same, though the Prime Choice struts are free shipping. hhmmmm?
     
  14. skier2480

    skier2480 New Member

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    So if you use the quick struts, will you need to do an alignment or not?
     
  15. jakedrew

    jakedrew Active Member

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    I didnt. But it wouldnt hurt.
     
  16. Argentimage

    Argentimage Active Member

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    I just did this one July 4 wkend. No alignment is needed, you aren't opening up anything that affects alignment that can be adjusted.

    Found the quick struts on the fleebay by a local parts wholesaler that has gotten smart, saved $200 in just the cost of the assemblies them selves. Rears were the simplest once I threw out the instructions, you cannot ever think to get a deep socket on the nut that is encapsulated by rubber (dumb design) assembled before the body was dropped on. Get a chisel and a big hammer, 10 blows and its flying off, actually that was quicker to get the others off too. Then you drop the bolt that holds the lower control arm on, a big pry bar to pull it down and you get the old asy out & new one in. Fronts PITS - that upper ball joint stud as noted in the ball joint thread is a major frustration as soon as it relaxes, the ball joint is spinning.
     

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