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anyone have any thoughts or experience with these types of antennas!?

Discussion in 'Ham Radio - CB - Trail Communications' started by LONO100, June 27, 2011.

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    1. LONO100

      LONO100 Well-Known Member

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      hey all, i am in the process of installing a cb radio in my 2003 sport trac and i want to replace my old magnet mount antenna. i found these antennas on sale on ebay for about 30 bucks. this tpye of antenna glues to the window and then transmits its signal through the window to a transponder on the other side of the glass that you connect the coax to. anyone have any experience using these types of antennas? im affraid that the adhesive might come undone under heat or cold. any thoughts or experiences would be greatly appreciated.

      thanks, heres a link to that antenna if you want to check it out

      http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-MIDLAND-18-...432?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item48408c81e8
       
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    3. n2epv

      n2epv Active Member

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      Radio Shack online lists the same antenna (but shows out of stock) - http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2413195

      I haven't used this model, but the 'on the glass' antenna's never seem to work as well as a magnet mount or body mount type. But they do work... The adhesive will stay stuck if you clean the glass area first with something like rubbing alcohol to remove any wax and dirt. On the other hand, it makes for a neat installation - no cable running across the roof like with a mag mount.
       
    4. ncranchero

      ncranchero Co-moderator Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Never had much luck with thru-the-glass antennas.
       
    5. rizzjc

      rizzjc Scubajoe - Radio Mod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      For a simple and clean install, the glass-mount antennas work well. I used one for years, an even had it on my tinted window. The SWR wasn't great, but it worked fine for my ham radio. I would NOT recommend putting it on tinted windows, but that's all I had to work with. The tape won't come off. It takes a lot of deliberate work to get it off once it's on there.
       
    6. LONO100

      LONO100 Well-Known Member

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      thanks for the advice fellas, another route i have been looking into is getting a
      Firestik AR-1A Matchmaker CB / AM/FM CB Antenna Splitter. if im reading correctly from the website, this will allow you to mount a CB antenna where your normal am/fm radio antenna would go, then you split the line with the device so that both your cb and am/fm radio will share the cb antenna that would be mounted where the am/fm antenna would be. does anyone have any info or experience going this route? my goal is to have as clean an install as possible, and since im planning on replacing my magnet mount, im looking into alternatives.

      if i went this route, i would like to get a 4' firestik and mount it where my regular antenna would go, then use the splitter so that my am/fm and cb would share. any thoughts? any suggestions? this seems to me to be the cleanest route, although i dont know how well it would function.

      any help would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!

      thanks, here is a link to the splitter i was reading about

      http://www.walcottcb.com/firestik-ar1a-cb-antenna-to-amfm-splitter-p-221.html
       
    7. rizzjc

      rizzjc Scubajoe - Radio Mod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Sorry, no experience with those.
       
    8. LONO100

      LONO100 Well-Known Member

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      no problem, i guess ill be the forums first guinea pig on the splitter!
       
    9. nerdplanet

      nerdplanet New Member

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      bad bad bad bad idea, especially around metallic tint film like ford privacy glass , actually if you put 4 watts on those things you will end putting 2 on the antenna , 1/2 on the air , and 1 and a half dissipated in heat , so get a K40 antenna and mount it in the hood , drivers side that works well , my moms Ranger CB antenna was installed that way , her setup is a midland SSB CB with a K40 antennas on the hood , also she runs a kenwood TS-50 HF radio with a Marine Auto tunner on the back of the cab conected to a 102 inch whip on the rollbar .
       
    10. LONO100

      LONO100 Well-Known Member

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      i ended up getting a new magnet mount antenna that is working great for me, although i do wish i could transmit farther than i currently can. any advice? im thinking about upgrading to a wilson magnet mount to throw on my roof.
       
    11. High_Order1

      High_Order1 Active Member

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      necropost!

      Nerdplanet has it. The problem is that CB is a very low frequency compared to many. That means the antenna needs to be fairly long to match up with the radio. That's why a CB radio walkie talkie has like a one foot antenna, and a police UHF walkie usually has one that's maybe two inches.

      The closer you come to the correct length of antenna, the better you are.
      The better grade of coax you use, the better you are.
      Using professional connectors (solder/crimp, NOT screw on) makes things better.
      The better you ground your antenna and radio, the better.

      Radios are a system. You can buy a kickass radio, and feed it into a coathanger. Its' gonna suck. You can buy a shit hot antenna, ultralow loss coax, gold plated connectors, shortest length of coax that is resonant, and stuff a cheap radio onto it, and blow peoples doors off. It's weird.

      In that vein, all gimmick antennas are gimmicks. The AM/FM/CB/??? splitters are a gimmick. Don't expect much out of them on CB frequencies. Same same glassmount. Like np says, you basically dead end the transmitter, and inductively couple an aerial on the other side of an insulator.

      IF you wanna run CB, and get any kind of distance, you don't need a footwarmer. You need a big antenna, and good coax. No way around it.
       
    12. The DB

      The DB Active Member

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      Necropost huh, not as bad as some others I've seen... Only what six months, better than the years back I occasionally see.

      The ones I find the best screw on then solder, never cared much for the crimp on connectors, but yes cheap connectors are just that, cheap...

      On this one, if the antenna is properly tuned the length of coax does not matter. Some people like to use this method to tune an antenna, it doesn't, the SWR ratio for the antenna itself does not change, it just hides that fact from the radio. Its based on an old CB myth that so many people swear by it just won't go away... There is actually a use or two in cutting the coax to a resonant length, however the one size fits all length used in the CB myth is incorrect, it does not take into account the velocity factors of the coax and thus the actual length for a given frequency is different with each type of coax.

      Coax on CB's is important but not as important as it is on say the 23cm ham band (or even the 2m ham band). I would stick with the RG-8's, a personal favorite of mine is RG-213 (which is the same cost as RG-8 to me and about the most durable cable I have ever seen)... These are good to run several hundred feet, and at these frequencies paying the higher cost of say an LMR-400 or lower loss cable isn't worth the minor differences you will get.

      Edited in...
      If you use gold plated connectors you want to make sure both the coax end and the end on the radio/antenna are also gold plated. When using metal connectors its best to go like to like, weather that is gold to gold, copper to copper, aluminum to aluminum ect. Its a myth from the audio world that gold is the best metal conductor out there, its not (copper is by far). While gold is slightly better than aluminum in that regard the differences aren't that much, and all of the connectors for CB radio are already aluminum. Gold plated connectors that connect to the existing aluminum connectors will loose any benefit you will get with the gold plating, and, depending on the compounds used, you may end up being worse off than using standard connectors.

      Also the connectors for much higher frequency radios are also done in aluminum with no issues. As these VHF/UHF/SHF frequencies are much pickier and work fine with aluminum connectors then the much lower and much more forgiving HF frequencies used in CB, I don't see gold plating really making any difference.

      The DB
       
      Last edited: December 29, 2011
    13. 4x4junkie

      4x4junkie Well-Known Member

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      Actually, silver is the best conductor. You want the lowest loss at RF, silver plated is where it's at.

      Also, virtually all connectors are either brass that has been plated with gold, silver or nickel, or some sort of a nickel alloy all the way through (definitely not aluminum though). If they were aluminum, you'd never be able to solder anything to them. ;)

      And ×2 on on the coax length (I still see that "must use 18 feet" crap myself waaaayyy too often).
       
    14. lounge lizard

      lounge lizard Active Member

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      hey!

      you guys ever hear of astro rings for tuning stainless steel whip antennas?

      I use to use them all the time 30 years ago. now it is getting harder to find good C.B. equipment.


      [​IMG]

      I still like a hard mount antenna. like I did the rear bumper/whip antenna
       
    15. The DB

      The DB Active Member

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      Your correct 4x4junkie, my mistake... Any which way, gold is not often used and its extra expense is pointless unless your existing connectors are made out of gold, which I have yet to see happen in the radio world.

      lounge lizard, I'm not familiar with that product. I used to use various sized springs for tuning those antennas, and with that antenna even if your at a 2-1 SWR ratio it will still outperform pretty much any other antenna out there...

      I do know there are more than one tunable 102" out there, used to run one, although it was more like a standard antenna tuning where you cut it to length and two screws hold it in place. I've seen them around on occasion so tunable 102"s are out there...
       

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