aussie lockers just came in the mail! (pics)

[LONO100]

hey all, came home from my trip to find my aussie lockers on my door step. im about to slap this puppy on and hopefully document it with pictures and maybe some video for everyone who isnt as familiar with diffs or gearing like yours truly. i have all the tools and just got back from autozone with all the other stuff i need. what i bought there for the install:

super black rtv silicone 6.99
valvoline bearing grease for ford/mercury/lincoln 3.99
2 qts valvoline full synthetic 75W-140 gear oil 17.99 (x2)
super funnel (looks like a beer bong) 3.00
brake cleaner (4.29)

anything else i need to get before i take my diff apart? any last second suggestions or tips on how i can make this install easier? anyone with experience installing these lockers in a solid axle rear ford 8.8 31 spline have anything to add or let me know things to watch out for? i will try to document it as best as i can for the forum. thanks fellas.

pics of the lockers out of the box:

 

[Brandon96]

This is going into (your current diff) an open differential correct? I would love to see a full detailed write up on the solid 8.8! I recommend reading through Ronin's, to kinda use it as a reference for a write up. He did an EXCELLENT job on pictures/detail.

This is on his IRS 8.8 -- 3rd Gen Aussie Install

 

[LONO100]

thanks for the tip brandon, ive already been talking to him about it and ive been up and down his write up. my biggest fear is putting the springs in without them flying around and me losing them. hopefully i have someone around who can help take pics while i do it.

 

[IZwack]

Pull the brakes, pull the axle shafts out a few inches, remove the spiders, drop the outer parts of the Aussie in, push the axle shafts back in, drop the center parts of the Aussie and voila! The install is pretty much just like any lunchbox locker out there.

 

[Stic-o]

It's super easy to put in. I just through a Powertrax in a D60 in about 30 mins. over the weekend.

 

[LONO100]

thanks fellas. im fairly mechanically inclined, but this is the first ive ever opened up a diff. iswack, chad from mizzou told me that he didnt even have to take his wheel off. i have the solid rear axle 8.8, do you just pull the axles out a bit because it makes it easier?

 

[Stic-o]

thanks fellas. im fairly mechanically inclined, but this is the first ive ever opened up a diff. iswack, chad from mizzou told me that he didnt even have to take his wheel off. i have the solid rear axle 8.8, do you just pull the axles out a bit because it makes it easier?

if you had drum brakes this would be true, but with disc's you'll have to pull the rear tires and calipers. You need to pull the axle shafts out a bit to clear removing the spider gears and put in the aussie components.

I'll do a write up with pics when I do the aussie install in a few weeks.

 

[LONO100]

in the installation manual that came with the lockers, it said that if you are installing into a ford 8.8 solid axle open diff, and if there are c-clips, to leave the rear wheels on. so should i leave them on or should i pull them off along with the rear calipers? if i am supposed to be taking the rear wheels and calipers off to pull the axles out, should i be removing the hubs too? id like to be to keep the rear wheel on if possible to save time since i will be doing the install tuesday morning and will have to be back at work that same evening. thanks guys.

 

[Clusterpup]

You need another quart of oil.

 

[gmanpaint]

Yeah^^ Takes over 2 QT's for the 8.8 Dif.

The calipers will stop the axles from moving outwards after you remove the C-clips, so the wheels have to come off. There are no hubs on the solid 8.8, just axle bearings inside the axle tubes. This is a great time to replace both bearings and seals.
I don't see a new carrier pin bolt on your list either. Make sure to replace that as it is a one time use only.

Tips..

After you rag out the inside, run a magnet in the diff valley to retrieve any bits, and shavings.

Keep your spider gears in grease and store in a safe place in case of locker breakage. You can re-install them while waiting for replacement parts if needed.

Take a small pc of emery cloth to the axle shafts where they ride on the seals.

If you remove the axles completely to replace seals & bearings, wrap the splines with paper to avoid cutting the new seals. Once the splines are past the seals, remove paper and continue to slide the axles inwards.

 

[Clusterpup]

I don't see a new carrier pin bolt on your list either. Make sure to replace that as it is a one time use only.

Hmm. I was not aware of that. I've taken mine off twice and put it back in but I used some blue thread lock. I hope it doesnt come loose, so far so good though after a few thousand miles.

 

[LONO100]

gman - ok, so im going to make another stop at my autozone to get another quart of gear oil, but im a little confused about the carrier pin bolt you were referring to. are you talking about that center pin that holds the spider gears in place, or the little retaining bolt that holds the center pin in place? and where would i be able to get one of those? would they have one at my local autozone or would i need to go to ford directly? i havent read anywhere that i need to replace that pin. good tip on how to store the spider gears, i will be keeping them in grease. i wasnt aware that the solid 8.8 didnt have hubs, i just got my ST at the beginning of the summer and havent really looked at it.

cluster - being that we have the same exact vehicle, did you have to remove your wheels and calipers when you installed your aussie locker? if so, i might have to wait until the weekend to do this job because i dont know if i will have the time to document the install if i will have to be takign off wheels and replacing bearings.

any replies would be most welcome as i would like to get this project started and completed later on this afternoon. thanks again for all the help guys. patiently waiting....

 

[Maniak]

The

the little retaining bolt that holds the center pin in place

needs to be replaced.

The carrier cross shaft pin bolt thingy is Dorman part# 81048 and is < $2 from rockatuo.

Just for future searches. I've also seen it called Differential Shaft Lock Bolt and Differential Pinion Shaft Lock Bolt

~Mark

 

[LONO100]

maniak - would i be able to find this bolt at a local kragen or autozone? i really dont want to have to pay shipping for something that costs less than 2 bucks, i also would like to avoid haveing to wait another week to get the lockers on. i dont know if i will have the time to do this project and might have to wait a while if i cant get it done in the next few days.

 

[Clusterpup]

The needs to be replaced.

The carrier cross shaft pin bolt thingy is Dorman part# 81048 and is < $2 from rockatuo.

Just for future searches. I've also seen it called Differential Shaft Lock Bolt and Differential Pinion Shaft Lock Bolt

~Mark

Ah damn, thats it, I'm putting the cheapest oil in my diff this time. :frustrate

 

[Clusterpup]

Lono, I didn't have to remove my wheels, I have drum brakes and once you remove the c-clips you can slide the axles in and out. I just used my foot to move them around as needed. I guess if you have disc brakes its a different story.

 

[LONO100]

i went and bought synthetic gear oil. i thought id spring for the good stuff since i dont plan on opening up my diff any time soon after this install. good idea? plus, how is your carrier pin retaining bolt holding up being that you didnt replace it? i will try to look for one locally today since i need to get another quart of gear oil. is the synthetic stuff a waste of money? should i return it and just get the cheaper stuff? it will end up costing me about 60 bucks compared to under 20 bucks for the regular oil. anyone just use the cheap stuff? i think i will pull the wheels off before i put the truck on jacks, then if i will need to pull the calipers, i cant just unbolt them and then i will have slack on the axles.

 

[Maniak]

maniak - would i be able to find this bolt at a local kragen or autozone? i really dont want to have to pay shipping for something that costs less than 2 bucks, i also would like to avoid haveing to wait another week to get the lockers on. i dont know if i will have the time to do this project and might have to wait a while if i cant get it done in the next few days.

Yes, its $2.99 at Oriellys (was CSK/Kragen/Checkers)

~Mark

 

[gmanpaint]

The carrier shaft pin bolt is sold at most places that carry Dorman/Help! products for less than $3.

The reason they are one time use is they stress crack above the threads on the shoulder when you try to remove/install it after using it twice. This leaves the head of the bolt in your hand, and the threaded end deep inside the bolt hole. There not fun to remove, but there is a special drill bit/tool made for this problem. There is even a sticky in the trans section about this. For a few $$, a new bolt every time is worth it.



I run Mobile 1 in both diffs, and I think it is well worth the extra $$. Syn takes the heat way better & longer than conventional Dino Oils. Cheap insurance for what it costs to rebuild an axle.

 

[LONO100]

thanks, on my way to kragen and autozone right now! probably going to have to wait until tomorrow morning to install the locker and document it. thanks again everyone for all the tips.