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Axle Pivot Bushings, how do I remove?

Discussion in 'Stock 1991 - 1994 Explorers' started by SwaintaN, March 4, 2009.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. SwaintaN

    SwaintaN Well-Known Member

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    Im trying to upgrade/replace some bushings as I can afford them, thanks to Limited X i got the red poly axle pivot bushings.. how do I remove them to replace with the new ones?
     
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  3. Maniak

    Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    I don't remember seeing a how to and I didn't see a thread in the useful thread section about it either.. I nominate you to do a how to :)

    Basically, once you have the bolt out and the beam pushed out of the way you use a hammer and a punch to push in one side of the metal part of the bushing. Once you do that you should be able to knock the entire bushing out. Look at your new bushing so you know which way to push the bushing.

    I found it is easier to move the axle beams around if the sway bar (I don't have one), spring and shock are pulled. I also loosen the RA bushing (don't remove the nut) so the beam moves easier. Two floor jacks help in raising/lowering the beam and of course you will have the vehicle help up with jack stands under the frame.

    EDIT: I've seen some axle pivots not come with the metal sleve. If it doesn't come with the sleeve you won't remove the metal sleeve from the beam but I personally don't like that style of replacement..

    ~Mark
     
  4. SwaintaN

    SwaintaN Well-Known Member

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    pretty sure they came with the metal sleeves.
     
  5. SPORTEXP

    SPORTEXP Active Member

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    flaring them out is the trick. I made the tool to do this with, since I couldn't find at the auto parts stores and I didn't want to go to Snap On or those other expensive guys.
     
  6. 410Fortune

    410Fortune Firewood Season Staff Member Moderator

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    air hammer

    I have done SEVERAL this way and it takes minutes
    With the beam out of the truck (Hopefully) use the air chissle around the edges of the metal sleeve that is pressed in from the factory with a lip (like a rivet), you work around the edges and fold the lip over in on itself, the bushing will almost fall out of the beam :hammer:

    When you press :hammer: the new bushing and sleeve into the beam I like to use a small tack weld or three to retain the new bushing, this keeps the beam from "walking" on the bushing
     
  7. Maniak

    Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    I've never done the welding of the bushing but I've heard some people like doing it.. it makes sense, but isn't necessary if you can't do it..

    The air hammer does make short work of it.. last time I did it I didn't have access to the air hammer (friends house) and I found the bending in one side only worked really well (knocked it in pretty far). On the 2nd bushing I knocked in about 1/2 of the bushing and made it tight again.. Once I got all the way around it did just about pop out by hand.

    Oh, when pressing it in, a clamp didn't work well for us.. nor did a ball joint press (basically, a bigger c-clamp). What worked well was a nut/bolt and a bunch of washers.. I could do that with the beam still in the truck.

    ~Mark
     
  8. 410Fortune

    410Fortune Firewood Season Staff Member Moderator

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    good tip, no air = use a BFhammer (8# sledge comes to mind) and hefty metal chissle to accomplish the same thing
     
  9. SwaintaN

    SwaintaN Well-Known Member

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    appreciating the info, absorbing it all, while the bushings are on their way
     
  10. Limited Ex

    Limited Ex Elite Lurker

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    Man you guys approached this with a lot more tact than I did. I took a butane torch to the bushings, just long enough to get them flaming, then sat and monitored the situation until I was able to push the remains out with a screwdriver:D

    As for the metal sleeve, I left it. Everything went back together smoothly, but at the time I don't think I realized it could have been removed, its been a long time since I did those bushings:p:
     
  11. Maniak

    Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    That my more tactful, experienced way of doing it..

    The 1st one I ever did was when we installed the lift kit way back in the late 90's. We just used a drill and drilled all the way around the rubber part of the bushing by drilling in and then just pushing the drill around the rubber part.. wasn't purdy and didn't work well.. Then spent almost an hour getting the metal part out. A framing hammer isn't heavy enough and we broke 3 screwdrivers.. a 3 pound baby sledge and a drift works much better.

    ~Mark
     
  12. 410Fortune

    410Fortune Firewood Season Staff Member Moderator

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    ah the memories, sounds almost identical to my first attempt! Then I ended up pulling the beam and trying the drill some more :)

    You should have seen my first ever, just bought a black and decker grinder, radius arm bushing install/attempt LOL

    Now it takes 2 hours total, that one took 3 days!
     
  13. SwaintaN

    SwaintaN Well-Known Member

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    lol im hoping they come out kinda easy, can be time consuming, but easy.. have to wait and see, but im keeping all this info in my head so when i go to do it, i can try and get them out
     
  14. Limited Ex

    Limited Ex Elite Lurker

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    Lmao, a grinder for radius arm bushings? Now THAT is tact:thumbsup:

    Learning is awesome:hammer:
     
  15. 410Fortune

    410Fortune Firewood Season Staff Member Moderator

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    I still use my black and decker 5" disc grinder for radius arm bushings silly, it takes 2.5 minutes to cut the head off a rivet and get it flush to the frame with the grinder, enlarge the holes a bit for 1/2 grade 5-8 hardware, scuff with sand paper and paint flat black..... BLAMO, radius arm bushing replaced quick and easy
     
  16. SwaintaN

    SwaintaN Well-Known Member

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    i got so used to sticking things in the stock... well my ride is not stock no more, it has the RC 4" lift will this cause any problems, make it easier or worse?
     
  17. Maniak

    Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Radius arm bushings will be easier.. Axle pivot bushing will be about the same EXCEPT.. many bolts have already been touched (i.e. front spring retaining bolt) so they shouldn't be as stuck.

    ~Mark
     
  18. SwaintaN

    SwaintaN Well-Known Member

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    will taking the springs off cause my alignment to screw up?
     
  19. 410Fortune

    410Fortune Firewood Season Staff Member Moderator

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    nit if you seat them back into the same place as they are seated now, your alignment will not be effected UNLESS

    you adjust your tie rod ends (rotate them)
    You move your camber shims (if you plan to remove the knuckle MARK the position of the camber shims on the beam and the shim)
     
  20. SwaintaN

    SwaintaN Well-Known Member

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    was thinking, take out springs and just pull the axle pivot down, removing in some of the ways suggested then putting springs back on, hoping it wont screw with any of it.. i guess if it does, it dont matter, gotta do ball joints in a few weeks
     
  21. SwaintaN

    SwaintaN Well-Known Member

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    ok so have an axle that is out of the explorer, getting ready to clean it and extend the ras, but before i throw it in im finally gonna do this... HOWEVER...

    i stole this from another member.. mine look like these exactly but red polys... where does the fat rubber go? in front facing the front of the ex or facing the rear of the ex?

     

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