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bats 88 Bronco II Build Up

Discussion in 'Bronco II Registry' started by bats, November 2, 2011.

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    1. 410Fortune

      410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Staff Member Moderator

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      cam synchro in a 4.0 is a real pita
      I just remove the upper intake plenum, makes it easier
      I like the 93 model computer no EGR and no CAM synchro

      TDC #1 compression stroke, I use my wet finger in the spark plug hole to determine compression stroke (air rushing past) then watch with flashlight until piston reaches top then starts to drop, that is TDC. Yes on a 4.0 this can be a one person deal :) you can use a piece of tissue over the spark plug hole also when it blows out you are compression stroke.
      Once you do this THEN look at the balnacer and see if the 0 mark lines up it should be dang close.
       
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    3. bats

      bats Active Member

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      Getting to TDC isn't that bad. I'm partial to the ziptie in the spark plug hole method. Set the timing correct this time. Took the upper plenum off go to loosen the bolt and it's stripped. Mtherfcer. Spent way too much time and blood trying to get to the bolt before realizing I could just rotate the body of the syncro and do the alignment that way. Found a note on another thread of a screenshot of a Haynes or Chilton manual. The trailing edge of the vane is supposed to align with the mark in the window. Why the f didn't they just say that from the start? I've read a dozen threads about timing tools and volt meters and that's all I had to do?!

      Anyways, got it all back together and runs great now. Took it for a rip up and down the block. Feels slower than I remember but the torque is there. Damn thing still wants to climb up walls.
      :burnout:
      Had a heart attack moment when I saw spots in the driveway after the test ride. Just appears to be my valve covers. Guess I cleaned off whatever rust and grease held them together since a few of the holes are gone completely.

      Still have the skull and crossbones on the grill so I left it in the driveway....just in time for Halloween.
       
    4. bats

      bats Active Member

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      Bunch of jumbled thoughts so I don't forget. Spent all day working in the cold. Came in and crashed and my brain isn't completely awake yet.

      Today I finally did the floor plate. Chopped up the old one. It's not pretty but for now it keeps the noise and fumes out of the cab.

      Other than the leaky valve covers I think it's pretty drivable. Would like to feel confident enough to take it to work and back when the snow starts. Tim sent me dono's old valve covers which should be here some time next week. That should solve one of my last major issues.

      I'm still 2WD since I never hooked up the front drive shaft to the e-tcase. Debating whether to put the manual one back up or just use pliers on the electric one for now. The manual one did work fine but the fluid looked like strawberry milk the last two times I dropped it. (Add a better breather this time.)

      Reminder for myself: RTV the freeze out plugs (?) on the top of the trans. They were dribbling when I started climbing on things.

      Had another mini heart attack when it wouldn't start today. Crank, spark no go. The duct tape I had holding a nut in the fuel cutoff switch deteriorated and allowed the sensor to trip from me banging around. In the spring I think I may just wire that to a safety switch.

      The M5OD setup is working great. The clutch is a little bit chattery but it seems to be disengaging and re-engaging just fine. Climbing up stuff while managing three pedals is getting easier. The bike cable throttle mod is on my list for the spring. All my Jeeps have been stick but I never really wheeled them. (Spent all my time fixing them!)
       
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    5. 410Fortune

      410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Staff Member Moderator

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      YOu can bypass the inertia switch just by twisting the two wires together, although with the commuting and 4x4ing you are planning its a good idea to have a functioning inertia switch
       
    6. bats

      bats Active Member

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      Inertia switch! That's the name of the thing!

      Many moons ago I did a trail fix to prevent it from cutting off. Some a hole left serious ruts in the beach on the path back to the entrance and banging around tripped it every 10 feet.

      Think I have a spare battery isolater switch with a key that would work good. Obviously not a high voltage application, just using what I got laying around.
       
    7. bats

      bats Active Member

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      Weekend update. Sh!t's broke.

      Firstly, thanks to vroomzoomboom for sending me Dono's old valve covers. No thanks to USPS for not updating tracking for two weeks. This is why no one likes the post office. The valve covers have just the right amounts of surface rust and Ford blue paint to match the patina of the truck. Swapped out the driver's side one because it was pretty bad and managed to pinch the rubber elbow for the FPR vacuum line at the very back. Loosed the accessible bolt and tried to pull it out with some vice grips. Think I left a little piece in but fck me if I'm about to take that intake manifold off again. Still leaking less than before.

      This week I wanted to see if the 4WD computer still worked. Pretty sure I left all the dash connectors untouched. The dash lights for the push button don't work BUT I got it to shift into 4WD high. 4Lo is a problem though. The 4WD computer wants everything at a stand still and the clutch in before it will shift. I never installed the NSS on the clutch shift lever since I bypassed it on the trans harness. Slid that sucker on and plugged in the harness. Still won't go past 4HI. Doesn't even seem like it's making an effort. Bad motor maybe? If I can get 4HI reliable that will be fine until the spring.

      Here comes the exciting part! Tried starting the truck but got the battery light on the dash. Okay, charge the battery. Still no crank. Starter solenoid clicks. Gauge says 12 volts. Grab ye old screw driver and jump the solenoid. Fires right up. (I think my timing may be a hair off but it still runs without stalling. Added to the list.) Check some stuff, jump the solenoid again skrzz skrrzzz nothing.

      Damn starter lost the top bolt and broke the lower mounting hole. But a washer on the lower through bolt and used a through bolt with lock washer on the top bolt. Still no crank from the key. Battery light even though the battery runs it fine.
       
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    8. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      no problem dan. to be honest, i just sent them to you, and didnt ask don lol. they were sitting in the back of a parts truck we both have, and i dont think either of us will own a ohv again (and by chance we do, and need another set, i can rob them off a motor i got for my cousins ranger lol).
      as for patina....i dont remember your truck having that. then again, its been, what, 4 years since ive seen it?
       
    9. 410Fortune

      410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Staff Member Moderator

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      Test the little red/blue wire at the starter solenoid make sure its getting the 12V when you turn the key to start.
       
    10. bats

      bats Active Member

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      I fixed it. Don't know why, but I did.

      The little red/blue wire at the solenoid wasn't getting power when I turned the key. Jump from the battery to it's spot on the solenoid and starts. Checked all fuses. Checked my NSS bypass on the transmission harness. Still connected. Not sure what possessed me but decided to jump the clutch interlock harness under the dash.

      Cover me in gravy and call me a biscuit. Starting with the key works again. Really stumped on why that suddenly needed to be jumped. That harness wasn't plugged into anything following the swap. Truck still started up until last weekend.

      Ran it long enough to get it warm. No dripping from the D/S valve cover anymore. Nice, one less fire hazard.
       
    11. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      It was the Canuck valve covers
       
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    12. bats

      bats Active Member

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      Continuing on with the bug stomping...

      The last time I went to drive the Bastard I had no clutch. Everything shifts nice when not running but can't disengage the clutch when running. No leaks, fluid's good. The last few drives (roughly 10 miles) I noticed the clutch being less and less responsive. Did some reading and it seems the angle of the dangle of the master cylinder traps air bubbles. Some genius on Youtube came up with the solution of putting vacuum on the feed line in the reservoir to suck the air out. I didn't have the fancy tip for my self bleeder so I lopped the reservoir off (it was a tad too long anyways) and shoved a tube down into the feed line. Put some suck on it and whadya know, air bubbles!

      Need to get some better bolts to hold the master on the firewall too. Planning on resolving all that this weekend and even getting an oil change in.
       
    13. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Back in 5 minutes Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      So did the vac at the resi work? Good to go? I hate them slaves with a passion. I had to give up messing with them.

      Old methods:
      Pulled that master out, stretch it on a post, and bled it, then throw it back in. If it still gives me heck, I gravity bled it with a fluid feed bottle. If that doesn't do it (even with tapping the lines), then the mityvac gets used, drawing air out at the slave. If that didn't work start all over, check O-rings, and put it back on the post. Blah......

      New method:
      Buy a new Pre-bled master, and flip the bird to the old one. I actually did that on my last install. Worked perfectly. Didn't even get my hands dirty. lol
       
    14. 410Fortune

      410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Staff Member Moderator

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      I have a much easier way to bleed the master cylinder, in the truck, works in 5 minutes even on a brand new master cyl
      I don't mess with hanging the whole system on the wall and pushing fluid for an hour...now I do it the easy way and I can assure you this removes that pesky air bubble every single time

      OLD WAY:



      NEW / BETTER WAY (works like a charm!!)


      Gotta love the information age!!
       
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    15. bats

      bats Active Member

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      The second link is exactly where I got the idea from! This was supposed to be a pre-bled master yet here we are.

      Spent a solid hour sucking air bubbles with the self bleeder pump. Definite improvement but not quite perfect yet.

      It's still a bit tough to get into gear when driving, needs a little extra force but then will engage and stay in. Clutch is disengaging, not grinding gears at all. Even with it being a fresh rebuilt (according to the ebay listing) it seems a little tight. Engine off it's noticeably easier to engage gears as expected.

      Throwing around ideas with my dad and we're thinking that maybe the slave cylinder plunger doesn't have enough throw. Going to play with it tomorrow.
       
    16. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Back in 5 minutes Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Well that stinks.

      Honestly, all I have ever had to do with a pre-bled, is install it, then immediately do a slow gravity bleed, and the pedal is perfect. Maybe the one you got has a bad O-ring in it, and letting air in when used?

      Do you have a mityvac? Could try it on the slave at the trans, and try to get the air out that direction. Just a thought.
       
    17. 410Fortune

      410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Staff Member Moderator

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      Did you try removing the top of the master cylinder like video #2?
      A small air bubble smaller then a pea can cause your clutch not to fully open, pre bled or not
      If you pull the master cylinder apart, let the fluid come to the top, then reinstall the plunger then there is no more air trapped in the master cylinder
      This fixes the issue you describe 9 times out of 10
      I have dealt with this MANY TIMES over the years, so many Rangers and Explorers with brand new clutch, brand new hydraulics and cannot get 1st or reverse gear easily = tiny air bubble

      The only other place it can get trapped is in the hydraulic line, but on a pre bled that is not likely
      We have also seen many issues with cheap slave cylinders, like pro torque and the other auto parts store junk
      Luk or Motorcraft ONLY!!!! I will ONLY use these two brands for the clutch hydraulics on one of these trucks
      Never a problem since

      Did I ever tell the story of how a certain 88 BII went through 4 clutches and 3 manual transmissions in one summer before finally converting to an A4LD automatic? Years later I would learn about the air bubble and finally know why I could never get the manual to work in my truck. A 5 minute trick could have saved alot of grief, heartache and money.
      Knowledge is power
       
    18. bats

      bats Active Member

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      Whoops, wrong video. Saw the Ranger and thought it was the same one I referenced.



      Next time I make it out to the garage I'll try that method. Maybe that's where the remaining air is trapped. After yesterday it DOES feel better and it's bearably drivable I think. Would I want to drive it in traffic though? Nah.

      This is the point where I'm almost kicking myself for not just having the A4LD rebuilt. Cost would be about the same and in theory I would have been up and running already. Then again there's that whole reliability thing. The A4LD that was behind the original 2.9 was rebuilt at only 40K miles and 10K miles later after two moderate wheeling trips it was slipping gears already.

      I know it's a your mileage may vary thing. I'd probably have problems even just getting the A4LD rebuilt. Always an adventure.
       
    19. 410Fortune

      410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Staff Member Moderator

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      A4LD rebuilds are more like nightmare then adventure, you have to get a builder who really knows his stuff otherwise its a crap shoot

      You likely have an air bubble, once you remove it the clutch will work as it should
      I have seen this many times
      pull the top of the master apart, be ready to catch some fluid (small amount) and then re assemble, fill the reservoir and then try again.....
       
    20. bats

      bats Active Member

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      That's partly why I didn't bother with a rebuilt. With the problem being the front pump seal and a lot of misinformation about how to do replace it properly didn't want to risk it.

      Good news and bad news. Replaced the master cylinder. After removing the snap ring on the old one and letting the juices flow they kept flowing. Something didn't seal right after putting it back together. Got a LUK replacement. Hooked it up and put some vacuum on it before attaching to firewall. Kept wiggling and tapping to get all the air bubbles out. Feels MUCH better now. Drove around the yard and went back and forth and it feels better than the other one ever did.

      Bad news is I broke the tip on the clutch fluid reservoir. Temporarily jury rigged the catch can from the vacuum pump to be a ressy. Couldn't find a part number for just the reservoir which sucks. See if I can find a universal one or something.

      The other semi bad news the drivers side valve cover still leaks when cold. I used RTV in addition to the Felpro gaskets on the back half. Fixed the passenger side but the drivers side still weaps a little bit. Definitely less than the original valve covers and they DID need to be replaced.

      The 2.9 valve covered leaked but these ones seem to drip down the block just right that it drips on the exhaust.

      Anyways, happy early new year and thanks to everyone for your help!
       
    21. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      that sucks about the valve covers. i dont think i pried them off when i took dons motor apart. and from what i remember, his motor was dry up top
       
    22. bats

      bats Active Member

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      Tim, the valve covers were mint. I made sure the surfaces were straight (they absolutely were) before putting them back on. Next time I can get out there I think I'll just use RTV and clean the head mating surface extra extra good.

      Fixed a fuel leak. O-ring on one of the injectors had a nick in it. No more fuel smell. Upper intake manifold back on...again.

      Crossing the clutch off the list. Got a new reservoir of fleabay, installed. Drove around the yard a bit again and clutch is still consistently working. The only thing is the plunger doesn't want to clip into MC like the old one did. If I'm too zealous on the third pedal it springs out and the plunger falls out of the MC. Maybe I'll just make a simple limiting strap and move on with life.

      Attached the front drive shaft and tested 4WD. Still no 4LO but I can live with that for now. Might just be missing the ground on the clutch pedal switch. I doubt I'll do any heavy duty wheeling this year so it's not high up on the list.

      More importantly on the to do list is e-brake cables. One of the steel cables I used rusted out. Something about taking the truck swimming in salt water maybe? The remaining one still does the job and actually works better than the e-brake on my daily driver. I'm still using the foot pedal for the e-brake which is annoying when you're doing it all the time. I have a floor mounted lever I pulled from an Aerostar we junked that I'm considering putting in. Lokar makes some nice kits for the 8.8 but they're spendy.
       

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