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bats 88 Bronco II Build Up

Discussion in 'Bronco II Registry' started by bats, November 2, 2011.

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    1. 410Fortune

      410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Staff Member Moderator

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      cam synchro in a 4.0 is a real pita
      I just remove the upper intake plenum, makes it easier
      I like the 93 model computer no EGR and no CAM synchro

      TDC #1 compression stroke, I use my wet finger in the spark plug hole to determine compression stroke (air rushing past) then watch with flashlight until piston reaches top then starts to drop, that is TDC. Yes on a 4.0 this can be a one person deal :) you can use a piece of tissue over the spark plug hole also when it blows out you are compression stroke.
      Once you do this THEN look at the balnacer and see if the 0 mark lines up it should be dang close.
       
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    3. bats

      bats Active Member

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      Getting to TDC isn't that bad. I'm partial to the ziptie in the spark plug hole method. Set the timing correct this time. Took the upper plenum off go to loosen the bolt and it's stripped. Mtherfcer. Spent way too much time and blood trying to get to the bolt before realizing I could just rotate the body of the syncro and do the alignment that way. Found a note on another thread of a screenshot of a Haynes or Chilton manual. The trailing edge of the vane is supposed to align with the mark in the window. Why the f didn't they just say that from the start? I've read a dozen threads about timing tools and volt meters and that's all I had to do?!

      Anyways, got it all back together and runs great now. Took it for a rip up and down the block. Feels slower than I remember but the torque is there. Damn thing still wants to climb up walls.
      :burnout:
      Had a heart attack moment when I saw spots in the driveway after the test ride. Just appears to be my valve covers. Guess I cleaned off whatever rust and grease held them together since a few of the holes are gone completely.

      Still have the skull and crossbones on the grill so I left it in the driveway....just in time for Halloween.
       
    4. bats

      bats Active Member

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      Bunch of jumbled thoughts so I don't forget. Spent all day working in the cold. Came in and crashed and my brain isn't completely awake yet.

      Today I finally did the floor plate. Chopped up the old one. It's not pretty but for now it keeps the noise and fumes out of the cab.

      Other than the leaky valve covers I think it's pretty drivable. Would like to feel confident enough to take it to work and back when the snow starts. Tim sent me dono's old valve covers which should be here some time next week. That should solve one of my last major issues.

      I'm still 2WD since I never hooked up the front drive shaft to the e-tcase. Debating whether to put the manual one back up or just use pliers on the electric one for now. The manual one did work fine but the fluid looked like strawberry milk the last two times I dropped it. (Add a better breather this time.)

      Reminder for myself: RTV the freeze out plugs (?) on the top of the trans. They were dribbling when I started climbing on things.

      Had another mini heart attack when it wouldn't start today. Crank, spark no go. The duct tape I had holding a nut in the fuel cutoff switch deteriorated and allowed the sensor to trip from me banging around. In the spring I think I may just wire that to a safety switch.

      The M5OD setup is working great. The clutch is a little bit chattery but it seems to be disengaging and re-engaging just fine. Climbing up stuff while managing three pedals is getting easier. The bike cable throttle mod is on my list for the spring. All my Jeeps have been stick but I never really wheeled them. (Spent all my time fixing them!)
       
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    5. 410Fortune

      410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Staff Member Moderator

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      YOu can bypass the inertia switch just by twisting the two wires together, although with the commuting and 4x4ing you are planning its a good idea to have a functioning inertia switch
       
    6. bats

      bats Active Member

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      Inertia switch! That's the name of the thing!

      Many moons ago I did a trail fix to prevent it from cutting off. Some a hole left serious ruts in the beach on the path back to the entrance and banging around tripped it every 10 feet.

      Think I have a spare battery isolater switch with a key that would work good. Obviously not a high voltage application, just using what I got laying around.
       
    7. bats

      bats Active Member

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      Weekend update. Sh!t's broke.

      Firstly, thanks to vroomzoomboom for sending me Dono's old valve covers. No thanks to USPS for not updating tracking for two weeks. This is why no one likes the post office. The valve covers have just the right amounts of surface rust and Ford blue paint to match the patina of the truck. Swapped out the driver's side one because it was pretty bad and managed to pinch the rubber elbow for the FPR vacuum line at the very back. Loosed the accessible bolt and tried to pull it out with some vice grips. Think I left a little piece in but fck me if I'm about to take that intake manifold off again. Still leaking less than before.

      This week I wanted to see if the 4WD computer still worked. Pretty sure I left all the dash connectors untouched. The dash lights for the push button don't work BUT I got it to shift into 4WD high. 4Lo is a problem though. The 4WD computer wants everything at a stand still and the clutch in before it will shift. I never installed the NSS on the clutch shift lever since I bypassed it on the trans harness. Slid that sucker on and plugged in the harness. Still won't go past 4HI. Doesn't even seem like it's making an effort. Bad motor maybe? If I can get 4HI reliable that will be fine until the spring.

      Here comes the exciting part! Tried starting the truck but got the battery light on the dash. Okay, charge the battery. Still no crank. Starter solenoid clicks. Gauge says 12 volts. Grab ye old screw driver and jump the solenoid. Fires right up. (I think my timing may be a hair off but it still runs without stalling. Added to the list.) Check some stuff, jump the solenoid again skrzz skrrzzz nothing.

      Damn starter lost the top bolt and broke the lower mounting hole. But a washer on the lower through bolt and used a through bolt with lock washer on the top bolt. Still no crank from the key. Battery light even though the battery runs it fine.
       
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    8. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      no problem dan. to be honest, i just sent them to you, and didnt ask don lol. they were sitting in the back of a parts truck we both have, and i dont think either of us will own a ohv again (and by chance we do, and need another set, i can rob them off a motor i got for my cousins ranger lol).
      as for patina....i dont remember your truck having that. then again, its been, what, 4 years since ive seen it?
       
    9. 410Fortune

      410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Staff Member Moderator

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      Test the little red/blue wire at the starter solenoid make sure its getting the 12V when you turn the key to start.
       

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