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Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

Discussion in 'Offroad Projects' started by BKennedy, June 4, 2013.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. BKennedy

    BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Thanks, Kirby.

    Anybody know how to get in touch with cmhaah06?

    I need to get in touch with him by tomorrow. If someone knows him, ask him to check his PM's.
     
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  3. BKennedy

    BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Warn sent me two complete bolt/axle clip sets, along with about 10 stickers, so I can't complain about their customer service. Anybody want a Warn sticker?? I just wish I did not need them every time I have purchased a new product.
     
  4. Rick

    Rick Pumpkin Pilot Staff Member Admin Elite Explorer

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    :chug:

    Looks great Brian. Nice work:thumbsup:
     
  5. gmanpaint

    gmanpaint It's Always Something! Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    How important are those frame supports? I wasn't planning on doing anything like that myself. Honestly, I never thought about doing that on the 1St gen. . Only thought it was something to do on the 2nd Gens with the crumple zones.
     
  6. BKennedy

    BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    First Gen's have crumple zones also, but they are all ahead of where I did my reinforcements. You have to reinforce the area around the steering box as that is where the track bar frame mount will go and if you don't, you stand a good chance of it ripping out of the frame. I did not want any future problems. I felt I weakened the frame by taking out the coil buckets, and leaving all those unfilled holes where the rivets were. Since I am also going with coil over shocks, I wanted to stiffen the frame at the engine cross member.
     
  7. gmanpaint

    gmanpaint It's Always Something! Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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  8. BKennedy

    BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    So today I got the track bar frame mount tacked in, nice and tight up under the driver side frame rail. I was going to drop it a little more, but was concerned the track bar would contact the pitman arm. I was checking for track bar clearance and I need to trim more off the passenger side corner of the engine cross member as the track bar contacts it at about 4" of up travel on passenger side. I think I am just going to cut off the entire front lip. I loosened the axle mount and pushed the track bar forward to check clearance on the pitman arm nut. No thanks to me (I did not check beforehand), it clears by less than 1/2", at about 6" up, where the radius arm contacts the frame, so my best guess on up travel seems to be about right at 5". All kinds of room on the driver side. Trimmed 1/4" off the track bar and it bolted right up. So my track bar is 2-3/4" longer than a stock early Bronco. It appears the pitman arm will clear the track bar lock to lock. It also appears that if I get the drag link the same length as the track bar (30.5"), they will be on nearly the same plane.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Also put a tire on the passenger side and it sits a few inches below the fender lip at 5" of up travel. The other side is hanging because there is no weight on it.
    [​IMG]

    NEXT comes coil over shock mounts.......
     
  9. Rick

    Rick Pumpkin Pilot Staff Member Admin Elite Explorer

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    Looking good Brian:chug:
     
  10. BKennedy

    BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    More coilover schooling please:

    I am mocking up the shock mounts and..........
    Is it better to have the top mount of the shocks 1" towards the rear then the bottom mount on a radius arm setup?
    Or.......is there another number?
    Or.......should the shock be level front to rear?
    The reason I am asking is I know as the suspension cycles up or down, the radius arm pulls the axle towards the rear. With approximately 45" long radius arms, it could be several inches.
    Or........am I overthinking a relatively simple way to mount coilover shocks due to inexperience?

    There will be a slight angle inward towards the top, but not much due to the master cylinder.

    A master cylinder question:
    I have a 1994 F-150 master cylinder on the work bench. It is supposed to have the same brake booster mounts as the stock Explorer unit. The brake lines mount to the inside and its a little bit longer than the stock unit.. I was told it would help with brake pedal feel due to the much larger calipers on the Dana 44 axle.
    Now to the question; will it work?
     
  11. BKennedy

    BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    I think option "B" for my lower shock mounts is the one I need to go with.
    Option "A" did not allow the shocks to "lean in".
    Option "B" seems to be clearing the tire with 6" up and 8" down, which is one inch more up than my target but 1" less on the down (ran out of jack). Was not to crazy about the idea of welding to the "C", but the mounts also act as a gusset which in theory should make the "C" stronger.

    [​IMG]

    Need to do some trimming on the front fender if I want to steer
    [​IMG]

    No clearance issues. Okay, I had one. Why would Ford mount the guard for the fuel filter with studs through the bottom of the frame? Radius arm contacts the studs, need to trim the studs.
    [​IMG]

    As much flex as I could get until I ran out of jack. Still have approximately 2" of down travel to go (5" up 9" down).
    [​IMG]

    Think I will just mount the shock to the master cylinder and forget the hoop....:eek::D
    [​IMG]

    I think the 1.75" diameter hoops will fit if I cut out some of the center part of the hoop then sleeve them back together. Will also allow me to "turn" the down part of the hoops to make it easier to line up.
    Thanks to Rock Ranger for coming over, picking up all those parts and giving me a nudge in a different direction.
     
  12. BKennedy

    BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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  13. mounty71

    mounty71 It's green, not gray. Elite Explorer

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    The shocks ideally would be mounted so that at full compression they are 90* or less to the radius arm.
     
  14. BKennedy

    BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Thanks. I will have to push the axle back up and get out the plum-bob.
     
  15. Stic-o

    Stic-o Elite Movie Star Elite Explorer

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    Looking good Brian:thumbsup:
     
  16. james t

    james t Elite Explorer Moderator Emeritus

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    This.

    Just keep in mind small upper mount changes aren't going to have a huge effect... you've got some wiggle room. In other words, if you cant get it exactly perpendicular to your arms at full stuff and need to move the upper back an inch or two, it wont hurt a thing.

    Good job on the lower mounts.
     
  17. BKennedy

    BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Thanks fella's

    Because of the master cylinder location (again), it looks like I can only go 1-2" back from straight up at ride height. I have an idea that should give me a little more room. A light bulb appeared over my head this morning, partly based upon looking at DB1's shock hoops, and partly from RockRanger's input. Basically a half hoop in the front with a straight piece taking the place of the rear of the hoop. It will give me more room to work around the brake booster/master cylinder. Off to get supplies.
     
  18. Xeek

    Xeek Elite Explorer

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  19. BKennedy

    BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    You had any problems with your F-O-A shocks?
    I had the shocks in the truck yesterday and think I should have bought the 90* reservoir line fittings. I emailed Dave's Off Road Supply, where I got the shocks, and they replied;

    "On FOA shocks the only way to change that fitting out is to buy a complete new reservoir and hose with the 90 degree fitting on it already. They are $50/each and it would be $15 shipping for a pair for a pair. So your total would be $115.

    Here is a link to the tech section on FOA's site. http://f-o-a.com/rebuildinstructions.html
    Using portions of the rebuild instructions it will explain how to remove the reservoir, reinstall the new ones and everything else you have to do to complete this."


    That smelled to me like BS, so I called FOA. They did not answer the phone, and requested that I leave a message. I sent them an email, and got this:

    "Our fittings are crimped to the hoses, not and extra piece. You'd need to buy the entire hose assembly to use them.
    You should be able to get 90* adaptors locally. They are 3/8" NPT thread."


    Now, this last email seems like good customer service. Told me how to take care of it in an inexpensive manner. Dave's I am not so sure about. The fittings are crimped to the hoses, but are threaded into the reservoir. Now, why would I need an entire new reservoir??:dunno:

    I am editing this post because;
    I contacted Dave's Off Road Supply and told them what F-O-A said about the 90* fittings and not needing a complete new reservoir. Dave replied in an hour stating F-O-A was who he asked when I contacted him about the fittings. I also wanted to ask about one of the hiem's on the shocks that seemed to have too much side to side wiggle, and some scratches that were on the reservoir when it was received (I did not want them replaced, just thought he should know). Dave offered to replace the reservoirs at no cost to me, and is sending me two new hiems on his dime. Pretty cool customer service if you ask me. I am going to live with the scratches, they are no big deal and I am sure I will make more
     
    Last edited: December 13, 2013
  20. mounty71

    mounty71 It's green, not gray. Elite Explorer

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    It's hard to tell from the picture, but if you're using high-misalignment spacers, do they allow enough movement so that you can just turn the shock bodies 90* from how they're positioned now? So the bolt would be perpendicular to the frame.
     
  21. Xeek

    Xeek Elite Explorer

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    Haven't finished building the truck yet lol. What spring rates did you get?

    Hows your fitting fit? Mine are 90* off the shock and straight off the Res. I'm sure they can be easily modded to make it work how you need to.
    And about calling them, I think they're CST and he's like the only guy on the phone, I got the same guy every time I called. so sometimes he may not answer. But they're good helpful people
     

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