Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer.

Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.

 

[BKennedy]

Did you ever get rid of your old rack and lights?

Sold them on CL about a month ago for $250 for the whole enchilada. Paid for my roof light bar anyway.

 

[Stic-o]

Sold them on CL about a month ago for $250 for the whole enchilada. Paid for my roof light bar anyway.

I was thinking it mite have looked good on my SD.

 

[BKennedy]

I would not have sold that to a friend. The rack was beat. The guy who bought it was OK with it, but it was on its last legs.

 

[BKennedy]

I did a little maintenance, but that has been it since I last posted. Changed the plugs for Motorcraft double platinum. Had Autolite's prior. The old plugs looked great, except I noticed the passenger side, rear plug was wet. Is it possible that there is a slight fuel leak into that cylinder while the engine is off? Engine runs smoother with the new plugs.

I was going to change out the injector O-rings as a maintenance item, but then realized I would have to pull the intake, so I think I will wait until its needed.

 

[DUDER 1]

What backspacing are you running on your wheels. Thank you.

 

[BKennedy]

What backspacing are you running on your wheels. Thank you.

-27, which is about 3.75 if I remember correctly. They are just cheap Ion Alloy Chinese wheels. I did not want to spend a bunch on them because I knew they were going to get beat. I got five of them for under $500 shipped through eBay. They are true and balanced with no issues. I am still halfheartedly looking for a set of alloy bead locks.

 

[DUDER 1]

OK got it thanks. I am running 15x10 with a 3.75 backspacing and I am going to get 15x8 steel wheels. I like the off set that your wheels have.

 

[BKennedy]

OK got it thanks. I am running 15x10 with a 3.75 backspacing and I am going to get 15x8 steel wheels. I like the off set that your wheels have.

I prefer 8-9" wide rims with 12.5" wide tires. It forces the sidewall to bulge to help protect the rim from rocks.

 

[BKennedy]

I have been helping my neighbor install a 4" Full Traction short arm lift in his TJ. Nice, well made kit. Its the first complete bolt on kit I have ever worked with. Only issues so far was removing OEM pitman arm and tie rod ends that are 14 years old. They just didn't want to pop loose.

I can already see a few of the brackets I won't be able to leave all bolt on. The front track bar frame mount and the rear track bar axle mount would stay in place better with a little welding.

 

[BKennedy]

Still helping my neighbor with his TJ. Working on it as time allows, but got the front suspension all finished. Rest should go quicker, less stuff and now I know which bolts take which wrenches. I think we should have it knocked out soon as we have some time this afternoon and all day tomorrow. I was surprised at how thin the plating is on the link brackets on the axles. The track bar axle mount is about 1/8" plate. I was so concerned with a single shear 1/4" plate track bar mount on my rig that I double sheared it.

For the Explorer, I ended up changing out the bellows type differential breathers. They could not expand enough to keep up with the pressure and were forcing fluid out of the seals, mainly on the front differential. Got some cheap ebay fuel line and ran it up to the engine compartment near the termination of the transfer case breather line at the top of the firewall. For the rear I ran it up as high as I could get it and still be practical, so it ended up right above the fuel tank. The front was easy as I simply ran it along with the brake line and locker wiring. Rear, I actually had to get creative to keep it away from all the stuff back there. I ordered some Briggs & Stratton 1/4" fuel filters for the ends of the hoses. They are small, use a paper or cork type filter and should keep the dust out while still allowing two-way air flow. To keep moisture out, I simply angled the end of the hoses down.

 

[gmanpaint]

I ran the rear diff breather hose up behind the tail lights. Has worked well for years now. Just left some slack in it for the flexing. If I get in water high enough to submerge that hose, the EX is now a boat.

 

[BKennedy]

I ran the rear diff breather hose up behind the tail lights. Has worked well for years now. Just left some slack in it for the flexing. If I get in water high enough to submerge that hose, the EX is now a boat.

I was going to run it along the fuel tank filler hose to the body, but its the same height off the ground where it is now. Above the back side of the gas tank, the body curves up about a foot for the rear seat backs. It's at the top if that area. I also figured out where to put my air tank, there is a bunch of room up there.

 

[gmanpaint]

I was going to run it along the fuel tank filler hose to the body, but its the same height off the ground where it is now. Above the back side of the gas tank, the body curves up about a foot for the rear seat backs. It's at the top if that area. I also figured out where to put my air tank, there is a bunch of room up there.

Funny you mention the air tank and a place to put it back there.

I am going to try to use a stock t-case skid plate to mount the air tank on the rear frame rails. Should tuck up nicely there.

 

[FR-425]

Found these slick little babies:

http://bagriders.com/modlab/products/AVS-ALUMINUM-2-GALLON-SLIM-TANK-(BLACK).html

Gonna mount them to the inside of my sliders.

4" diameter and 37" long Perrrrrrfect!

 

[BKennedy]

Found these slick little babies:

http://s1308.photobucket.com/user/E...inny-Black-01__60230_std_zpsjchgpr5x.jpg.html

http://bagriders.com/modlab/products/AVS-ALUMINUM-2-GALLON-SLIM-TANK-(BLACK).html

Gonna mount them to the inside of my sliders.

4" diameter and 37" long Perrrrrrfect!

Those look great but I am too cheap. They would fit nicely in between the body and outside of the frame. I am going to dissemble my Puma compressor and use that tank and mount the compressor inside of the right-rear quarter panel, if it fits. I think it will, I just haven't taken it apart to test it yet.

 

[BKennedy]

Spent the day down at the bay and saw this Explorer. I think it was 2wd and a Limited, or I would have offered him $1000 as a parts rig. I am going to post this on Dr. Jacks thread because the body was very straight.

 

[Kirby N.]

I have been helping my neighbor install a 4" Full Traction short arm lift in his TJ. Nice, well made kit. Its the first complete bolt on kit I have ever worked with. Only issues so far was removing OEM pitman arm and tie rod ends that are 14 years old. They just didn't want to pop loose.

I can already see a few of the brackets I won't be able to leave all bolt on. The front track bar frame mount and the rear track bar axle mount would stay in place better with a little welding.

That is very common to weld those brackets. My last lj had a shop installed lot and the rear trac bar bracket was welded only.
No bolts. I usually bolt it on then weld it. Those brackets have a ton of force on them and when they loosen you get problems which lead to wobbled out holes which leads to brackets that need welded on.

 

[BKennedy]

That is very common to weld those brackets. My last lj had a shop installed lot and the rear trac bar bracket was welded only.
No bolts. I usually bolt it on then weld it. Those brackets have a ton of force on them and when they loosen you get problems which lead to wobbled out holes which leads to brackets that need welded on.

I am going to weld around where if it had to be removed, a 4-1/2" angle grinder with a cut off wheel will fit. It will be bolted on, and only welded after it gets back from the alignment shop.
We are having trouble lining up the front track bar with the axle. There is a lot of side pressure on the bushing as it sits. Going to loosen the bolts on the track bar drop bracket and try to turn it slightly to see if that works.

 

[FR-425]

beefy: TJ track bar bracket.

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kit...um9x6fDwZ0ZpBzmpXAU44WH5CgR3DaqecsRoCAFjw_wcB

 

[BKennedy]

beefy: TJ track bar bracket.

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kit...um9x6fDwZ0ZpBzmpXAU44WH5CgR3DaqecsRoCAFjw_wcB

The rear track bar bracket seems much more stout than the front. I am not taking on a six month project here, just helping my neighbor out to save him some money. We did a trade, I help him pick lift and install, he gave me the old tires/wheels for Sarah's Ranger (same size). My neighbor really just wanted the look of a off-road capable Jeep. I talked him into getting a kit with longer lower control arms, a new front track bar, drop pitman arm, Fox 2.0 shocks, etc., so it would ride more like stock, and would be a capable off-road vehicle if/when he gets bitten by the bug after I take him out on a couple of easy trails. It will save him a lot of money in the long run if he does decide to off-road it in the future. I also drove one of my other neighbor's Jeeps with a "make it taller" lift and it drove like crap. Bump steer, shorter wheel base, crazy drive line issues, all the stuff you don't want.