Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer.

Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.

 

[FR-425]

Have to get in an e-brawl with ya on the master cylinder operation though.

Dual piston operation: Note the statement where the "primary" piston moves the "secondary"

Also noteworthy: It doesn't matter which piston is primary in relation to front brake or rear. That's a vehicle specific choice. Whether fronts come on first or rear.

http://www.thecarguys.net/brake_system_operation.pdf

 

[FR-425]

Hey that raises another question.

I wonder if what makes sense is actually backwards?

Huh?

Is it possible that you have the front and rear reversed on the master?

that would be easy enough to try. ..

 

[BKennedy]

Well I have the front brake line to the front and the rear to the rear. Otherwise, I think it would nosedive something fierce.

 

[BKennedy]

Back to the tow bar rattling. I finally got time to go pick up a couple 5/8-11 fully threaded grade 8 bolts. Yesterday I was getting paid to watch the Chargers lose, as usual.
At one time I had one of these:
http://www.discountramps.com/anti-r...tm_term=keyword&utm_campaign=Bing+Product+Ads
But it broke.

So I used the part that goes inside of the receiver and ran a bolt through it, but that broke too (the funny spring loaded square bolt, not the main bolt).

So then I made this J hook pin.

It works by the short end going into an added hole I drilled into the side of the receiver, putting side pressure on the mount. I decided before even using it that it would not last, but those two pins together gave me this idea. Ladies and Germs....I give you....

Only works with hollow receiver mounts. The tabbed flange locking nut I made up goes inside the receiver. The fully threaded bolt goes in the pin hole and threads onto the nut, pulling the mount tight against the receiver on one side. Then, the other nut goes on the end protruding from the pin hole, snugged down. I still need to cut the locking flange off the J pin and weld it to the end of the bolt, so should have that done by tomorrow. I know the odds of someone walking by with a 15/16 wrench in their hand to steal the tow bar are in my favor, and a locking pin is probably not necessary, but we leave the RV parked for hours in isolated places so I want to make it too hard to bother with trying to steal. And they do get stolen, that tow bar cost $1200.

 

[BKennedy]

This is why it comes loose and rattles. I need this extension to raise the tow bar so it is even with the mounts on the Explorer.

Adds lots of leverage. The tow bar fits tightly into the upper receiver, and as you see, I added two set bolts, one top and one side. It doesn't move. The RV hitch does, even with the added set bolt I added (broke a 3/8 bolt off coming or going to Truckhaven). So the new pin dealio, and a added 7/16 grade 8 set bolt as far back as possible on the bottom.

I also added a gusset to the back of the extension, and two to the RV hitch.

 

[RockRanger]

The real fix would be to lift the motorhome so it matches the explorer Hope it works for you.

 

[BKennedy]

The real fix would be to lift the motorhome so it matches the explorer Hope it works for you.

Its already over 12' tall. Could you imagine what a wild ride that would be, swaying down the highway, ready to tip over at the slightest breeze..

 

[BKennedy]

On this one I say no. As long as the feet of the cage are large enough to not punch through. It's over-kill to got too the frame unless you're run'n 100 mph.

If the cage fails it won't matter what it is attached to. Strong cage is more important than frame attachment. The body is not gonna tear off and if it did the cage would go with. yes?

Besides all you need to prevent punch trough is an interior cross bar on the floor at the B pillar just behind the front seats . If the floor pan folds the cross bar will push down to the frame rails.

On the Ex there is a lot of meat under the A pillar so I can't see punch'n through there. Large backing plate yes. Frame no.

The cage was built with 3/16" plate feet so I don't see it punching through. I thought tying it to the frame in a couple of places would make the overall body and frame more rigid. The "B" pillar bar is welded to the floor, directly above the frame. There is less than two inches between body and frame there, so even if it punched through the sheet metal, it would contact the frame and stop. Don't need a bar across the floor.

 

[BKennedy]

Got the RV hitch pin finished and installed. It seems to work very well.

 

[Stic-o]

The real fix would be to lift the motorhome so it matches the explorer Hope it works for you.

Or get a flatbed like a normal person :

 

[BKennedy]

Or get a flatbed like a normal person :

When you say normal, are you including yourself in that category?

 

[Stic-o]

When you say normal, are you including yourself in that category?

As the son of Zukman and Zukmam, are you seriously asking that question?

 

[FR-425]

The cage was built with 3/16" plate feet so I don't see it punching through. I thought tying it to the frame in a couple of places would make the overall body and frame more rigid. The "B" pillar bar is welded to the floor, directly above the frame. There is less than two inches between body and frame there, so even if it punched through the sheet metal, it would contact the frame and stop. Don't need a bar across the floor.

That's my point, it's over-kill..

 

[BKennedy]

As the son of Zukman and Zukmam, are you seriously asking that question?

Not serious.
If I had room at the house for a trailer, I would have one already.

 

[Stic-o]

Not serious.
If I had room at the house for a trailer, I would have one already.

Ditto

 

[FR-425]

You need to raise the roof of your garage so you can get it in there ON the trailer!

12' doors - YES!

 

[BKennedy]

That would be great, if I didn't live in yuppie-ville. As is, I had code enforcement come out and "ask" me to remove my RV canopy. They agreed it met the non-permit temporary structure requirements, but asked me to remove it because they got a complaint. I politely told them to never "ask" me anything again, unless they had a lawful reason. Haven't heard from them since.

 

[RockRanger]

but asked me to remove it because they got a complaint.

The complaint probably came from the end of the street house. They would be my primary suspect.

Can you fit a trailer where the horse trailer was? Or is that project still there? It has been a while sense I have been to my Aunt and Uncle's house.

 

[BKennedy]

You mean the lady that drives down the street like its a race track in her British wanna be sports car? That would figure. I was more irritated with the Code Enforcement person about the way they handled it than who complained. They came out, saw that it was compliant with the law, and asked me to remove it anyway so they could appease someone who was wrong. Usually no one notices it since it is set a ways back from the house, and looks like a privacy wall.

The other side of the house's gate is too narrow to accept a trailer. The Explorer fits with a few inches to spare.

Went seat redo estimate shopping today. Expensive to recover some old seats in vinyl. Leather is crazy expensive. Might have to take a different route with the seats, like cover the back seat and just redo the driver seat.

 

[Stic-o]

Went seat redo estimate shopping today. Expensive to recover some old seats in vinyl. Leather is crazy expensive. Might have to take a different route with the seats, like cover the back seat and just redo the driver seat.

No joke here! SD seats are ripped on the leather seat cushions, and just replacing each is about $250 each off eBay. I have been contemplating set covers, but really like the seats the way they are, minus the rips