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Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

Discussion in 'Offroad Projects' started by BKennedy, June 4, 2013.

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    1. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Today, I fixed the only thing that actually broke on the trip; the bolt that secures my tire and gas can carriers. It broke where I had drilled a hole to put in a cotter pin to keep it in place. The new model is made from a grade 8 bolt, cut down to length with a pressed on and welded lug nut. I tacked a washer to the bolt to keep it in place so I didn't have to drill any holes.

      I also have a kind of funny end to our Mojave Road trip. The XJ that was with us pulled the left front link mounts off the unibody and sheared the top link bolt. We were just a few miles to the end of the trail, so we drove through the water crossing and to Afton Camp where we spent the night. The water crossing was deep, about an inch below the top of my 35" tires. XJ on 31's got pretty wet inside, I got a little spot on both sides of the carpet at the rear doors, and Mike's floor was soaked. Limped the XJ out to the I-15 freeway and called AAA. All three of us had AAA cards, so the first 100 mile tow got us to Fontana. About three miles from the exit, I felt/heard what I thought was a front wheel bearing buzzing. I figured one of the hub grease seals allowed water in and killed a wheel bearing. After we got off the freeway, I decided to use my AAA card to have the Explorer towed home instead of trying to fix it in the rain. After I got it home, it was being unloaded from the flat bed and I noticed the front drive shaft turning. Turns out, I must have bumped the transfer case shifter and put it in 4 Hi, hence the buzzing. I pulled my lock outs off today and there is no damage that I could see, and the wheel bearing grease looks good. I would have never thought I could bump it into 4 Hi on the freeway.

      XJ link mount
      20180302_090315.jpg

      Crossing the Mojave River
      !cid_ii_jec4fyph0_161eea31e837ba84.jpg
      20180301_143420.jpg

      Fontucky Target parking lot
      20180302_142631.jpg
       
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    3. FR-425

      FR-425 Used to be a road here. Elite Explorer

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      Fontucky! :rickfro: We need a "Mullet" emoticon........
       
    4. FR-425

      FR-425 Used to be a road here. Elite Explorer

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      XJ's are pretty tough considering the uni-body thing. That's totally fixable, it'll buff out!
       
    5. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      If you had ever been there up to a few years ago, you would understand.

      He is going to get extended arms, which bolt to a new transmission cross member. Should be easy to cut off the mounts, since the driver side is nearly off already. I never liked uni-body construction, but it wasn't the XJ's fault. The lift brackets he has on there bolt only to the lower link mount and hang way down. They transfer the load of both the upper and lower links to the lower mount with no added support, and are the lowest point underneath. Not good. The part that was the XJ's fault was the steering column bolts breaking off where it mounts under the dash.

      Today, I was replacing the engine coolant temp sensor because its faulty. It would stay way down, then bounce all over when the engine got warm. I guess the electrical short fried that too. I pulled the one off the donor engine because I know it works. Tested the wiring by grounding the wire to the sensor. Gauge went all the way up like it should. I will probably be finding little things like this that I missed in the rebuild for awhile.

      While I was under there, I was looking at everything that would have been under water when I crossed the Mojave River. I can't believe that beat up body is still sealed up fairly well. If it wasn't, the carpet would have been soaked. The water was up above the bottom of the doors by 3-4" inches. Oil pan, bottom of the transmission and bottom of the transfer case must have been in the water. I am glad I extended the breather hoses for the diffs and transfer case several years ago. That's as deep as I ever want to get. We met the only group we saw on the entire trail coming in when we got to the camp ground. It was some stock Jeeps, a H2, a mildly built 4-Runner and a stock 4-Runner. When I told them how deep the water was, they turned around for a 40 mile detour.
       
      Last edited: March 12, 2018
    6. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I pulled the thermostat to take a look and it was stuck open
      20180312_114225.jpg

      I replaced it with a 180* model.

      Temp gauge is working fine now. After the engine was running for 30 minutes.
      20180312_171221.jpg

      I have a question that I couldn't find searching. The white arrow in the pic below is pointing at the sensor I replaced. The red arrow is pointing at what appears to also be a sensor. For reference, you can see the thermostat housing in between the white and red sensors. This is on the donor engine, mine looks much prettier. What the heck does the red one do?
      20180312_171323.jpg

      And, should I have replaced that while I was at it? Or, if the engine is running great leave well enough alone?
       
    7. R.J.

      R.J. Elite Explorer

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      I know on my engine there's two temp sensors. One for the guage and one for the ecu. But I don't think mine is right there on the 2.9. But maybe it is on yours? Is this picture taken from the front of the engine?
       
    8. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Yes, from the front under the front of the intake. If it was for the PCM, and was fried, wouldn't it run bad or get a check engine light?
       
      Last edited: March 12, 2018
    9. Brian1

      Brian1 Elite Explorer

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      Red one is the temp sensor for the ECU. If your engine is running fine then leave it alone. They are known to go bad however.

      I've never seen the Mojave that deep, wow!
       
    10. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Thanks Brian
       
    11. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I cut 3/4" off the outside edge of the tables and now I like them better. The side with the gas cans looked alright before, but it was the tire side that stood out too much.

      Before
      20180221_161708.jpg
      20180221_165745.jpg

      After
      20180313_142927.jpg 20180313_142944.jpg

      I am thinking about painting them white so they blend in with the hatch.

      I cleaned up the Explorer after cutting down the tables. The only post-trip item I still have to do is check the fluid in both diffs to see if any water got in. I pulled a bunch of water weeds off the undercarriage from the Mojave River.
       
    12. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      The wife and I took a 120 or so mile drive around the back country in the Explorer last week. Going through Ramona, the transmission pressure started jumping all over the place, with no rhyme or reason. I am thinking, great, just great. I pull into a parking lot and start looking over everything. Crawl under the Explorer, and there it is; the wire for the pressure gauge sender is missing the retention nut. I stop by Tractor Supply and purchase a four pack of M4 nylon lock nuts. The pressures have been fine ever since. I think the pressure variations I saw on the Mojave Road trip were from a loose wire nut. All that worry due to a 25 cent nut.

      The Explorer has had a slight driveline vibration at freeway speeds for a few years now, but I just figured it was the price paid for having a awesome off-road Explorer. I noticed the vibration I felt on the way home from the Mojave Road trip was there. Much more pronounced than before. Starts at 60 MPH on the dot, on up to about 75 MPH, which is as fast as I went. I put the rear axle on jack stands and pulled the rear drive shaft so I could see if I could feel any movement in the pinyon or transfer case output shaft. They are solid. I pulled the slip-yoke off the drive shaft and it was full of water. Must have been from crossing the Mojave River. The U-joints looked and felt okay. I had that drive shaft built several years ago when the transmission/transfer case went in, and I did not realize the builder used grease-able U-joints. I never use them because they are weaker, usually very difficult to service, and don't seem to last as long. The double cardan centering ball was completely dried out. Ordered three Spicer 1310X U-joints and centering ball rebuild kit. Parts arrived on Thursday, I put it back together same day. I drilled a small hole in the slip-yoke boot to allow it to drain if it gets water in there again and greased the heck out of the yoke with synthetic grease. I did not have time to take it for a test drive.

      Today I went out to SMOG it and pay my outrageous registration fee through AAA. When the guy was driving it into the bay to test it, I noticed the brake lights were not working. The wiring for the brake lights is not OEM, I had to modify it for towing behind the RV, and for the transmission torque converter lockout relay. I pulled the side off the center console for access and messed with everything I could think of; relays, fuses, wiring, etc., before realizing it was not my doing but the brake light switch itself that was not functioning. Replaced it in the Autozone parking lot in about five minutes, after I put all the stuff I pulled apart back together, works great.

      Finally got on the freeway and the driveline vibration is completely gone. I am very relieved, because all I could think about was TurboExplorer chasing his driveline vibration for a long, frustrating time.

      If you are in the market for driveline parts, check out drivetrainamerica.com. I am not affiliated with them in any way, but their customer service is outstanding. I purchased the U-joints from Rock Auto, they were the best price on-line. I located the centering ball rebuild kit at Drivetrain America. It was a $12 part with a total order amount of $20. The next day, I realized I needed the rubber boot that goes over the ball. I emailed their customer service asking if they could add it to my order and I could pay the difference, or cancel my order so I could reorder with all the parts I needed to avoid extra shipping. I got a reply the same day telling me the boot was added to my order at no charge and thanking me for my business. It was only a $5 part, but it was 25% of the entire cost of the order. That is great customer service. I am planning on rebuilding my front driveshaft just because its been a long time, and am going to order all the parts from them.
       
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    13. R.J.

      R.J. Elite Explorer

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      I think I bought my double cardan rebuild kist from Amazon. It was a Moog part that I got the part number off of this site.
       
    14. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I noticed the other day that the foam around the AC condenser is gone. I think it fell apart and fell out, leaving a small gap between radiator/AC condenser and core support. I know it helps direct air flow through the radiator, but is that a big deal, or should I fill that space with some type of expanding foam?
       
    15. Spudhut

      Spudhut US Navy Submariner Elite Explorer

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      Having 100% airflow through the radiator for cooling is important. Air will always take the path of least resistance. Air through one radiator is not bad, but when you have 2 or 3 cooling units in the path of the air, makes it hard for the air to 'push' through and want to divert its path.

      Even the fan shroud should have minimal clearance around the fan (as they come from the factory) to ensure max air flow is being pulled in. I learned over the years from having my Rod Shop, gaps and shrouds were important when building Hot Rods w/ Modern/Bigger ci. motors. Big Blocks in 57' Chevys, etc. Having bigger radiators or high flow water pumps weren't always the 'fix it' to overheating engines. You start throwing AC, Trans and oil coolers in there...You get the picture. Sometimes the simplest of things are overlooked.

      On my V8 Ex, they had these small rubber flaps attached to a pinch welt they put in the gap that 'snapped' on the radiator opening on the sides. Genius! A good JY find if you can get them. Rubber seems solid I have a tripped planned tomorrow and I can see if I can pull a couple for you. I can post a picture of them tonight if interested.

      The flaps were about 1" thick and pressed on AC condenser to fill void.

      or maybe make something like this:
      [​IMG]
      on 2011-2014 F150 w/ EcoBoost
       
    16. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      The rubber looks like a cheap, easy solution. I have sheet metal flaps in place of the OEM plastic units to guide the air into the radiator and can add rubber flaps to those to cover the gaps on the sides of the radiator. I was thinking of spraying some expanding foam in there, but this is much cleaner. Thanks.

      Yesterday I went on a day drive and it entailed some long grades, which my Explorer doesn't like. The transmission temps get up to a little under max recommended for the 700R4, but the engine temps don't get past the "M" in normal.
       
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    17. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I used a piece of rubber sheet I had to block the air from going around the passenger side of the radiator and direct it towards the cooling fins. The driver side still has the OEM foam stuff in place.

      Yesterday I crawled under the Explorer to see about putting some holes in the skid plate under the catalytic converter to help move heat away from the transmission. The cat is alongside the transmission pan, with only a few inches clearance and I think its transferring some heat into the transmission fluid. While under there I noticed transmission fluid on the cross member. I pulled the skid plates and the trans pan appeared to have developed a leak at the driver side rear. When I went to re-torque the pan bolts, the threads for that corner bolt stripped. I am guessing that is why it was leaking. The bolt also has a brace for the transfer shifter cable mounted to it. I never liked the way it was mounted because I don't think any pressure should be put on the pan. I noticed the bolt in that hole appears to be one of those oblong "helper" bolts lazy people use after they strip out aluminum threads. Never noticed it before, just put it back whenever I dropped the pan because it was longer for the mount bracket. I opened the pan drain plug and went to pick up a thread repair kit. While I was at the hardware store, I got a new set of flange head bolts to take place of the washers and bolts for the pan.

      While I was repairing he threads with a coil insert, I noticed the two bolt holes that the transmission shifter cable brace attaches onto were trashed, with only about the top half of the threads intact. This was due to having too short of bolts in those locations for the several years. So, I repaired those as well.

      After all that, I decided to modify the transfer case shift cable brace. It is mounted to the Advanced Adaptor between the trans and transfer case, that also acts as the transmission cross member mount, like before. I used one of the unused transmission mount bolts above the AA mount for the brace. Its shorter than before, but at more of an angle, so should be about as strong. The cable is aligned better than before as well. Here is a pic of it while the paint is drying.
      20180418_193454.jpg

      I should have a few more pictures of the brace when I get it bolted in place. I also drilled five, 1" diameter holes in the skid plate below the catalytic converter, and welded on a heat shield. The shield is just some thinner steel plate I had, about 6" tall and 10" wide. Its booger welded along the top of the skid plate and bent so it curves around between the cat and transmission. It should help pull some of the heat coming off the cat down into the skid plate and out the holes, and away from the transmission. I will get a couple of pictures of that tomorrow too.
       
      Last edited: April 19, 2018
    18. Spudhut

      Spudhut US Navy Submariner Elite Explorer

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      Innovation...love it
       
    19. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Its back together and doesn't seem to be leaking. The transfer case shifter cable mount is very solid and I did not have to adjust the cable. The heat shield fits nicely between the cat and trans.

      Cable shifter mount
      20180419_125312.jpg

      20180419_125338.jpg

      20180419_125405.jpg

      Tight squeeze
      20180419_125456.jpg

      Modified skid plate
      20180419_133509.jpg

      Heat shield. You can see in these pictures how tight everything is under there. Not much room to work with. The heat shield is farther away from the cat than it looks in the pictures.
      20180419_145702.jpg

      20180419_145900.jpg
       
    20. Spudhut

      Spudhut US Navy Submariner Elite Explorer

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      Well done. Did you have overheating problems before?
       
    21. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Yes. I have had this Explorer since 1995 and its always had problems with getting hot. I have made great strides with the engine temps, as it rarely gets above the "M" in NORMAL, but the transmission gets hot. I have also made strides with the trans temps, but it still gets warm. Usually on a long, steep grade on the highway when the ambient temperature is hot, or when going up long, steep grades at slow speeds off road. I know the skid plates hold the heat in, so I am trying to do things to cool the temps and still protect the drivetrain.

      I am still contemplating changing the transfer case shift cable mount to increase the angle to the shift lever. It would make it easier to move the lever inside the cab. Its not bad, but could be better. The only reason I haven't is because having it take a little bit more positive pressure to move the shifter makes it harder to accidently put it into 4 Hi. It moves easily from 4 Hi to Neutral to 4 Low to 2 Low.

      I was also thinking of seeing if I could modify the shift lever to pull instead of push. My NP231 shifter is the opposite of nearly every one I have seen because it was originally for a S-10. It was the only cable system we could find when the transmission/transfer case was being installed. The shifter lever pushes; 2H, 4H, N, 4L, 2L, instead of most Jeeps which pull towards the driver; 2H, 4H, N, 4L, 2L. If I could get the shift lever at the transfer case mounted so it would pull instead of push, it would work. I was thinking of that when I was putting it back together. There appears to be enough space but I would have to figure out where and how to mount the cable. I might mess around with that when I get around to rebuilding the front driveshaft.
       
      Last edited: April 20, 2018
    22. FR-425

      FR-425 Used to be a road here. Elite Explorer

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      I put an electric pusher fan in front to boost the a/c performance which also helped with trans temps, but in your case I realize you are just out of room up there. Hopefully your heat shield will do the trick.

      Maybe time to cut a hole in the hood to push more air through the engine bay. I can picture a nice gaudy hood scoop on it. :afro:
       
    23. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      That would be Pimp-tackular, but no thanks.
       
    24. Spudhut

      Spudhut US Navy Submariner Elite Explorer

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      'pimp-tackular' ... Awesome!

      Some things shouldn't be done. Logical idea though
       
    25. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I dropped the front skid plate today to check the transmission for leaks. None found, so that's good. While I had it out, I drilled four 3/4" holes, 2-1/2" apart where the skid plate covers the "Y" pipe. Its in a area of the plate where it has a welded bend and two welded on supports, and is near the front end so it shouldn't take away too much strength. I think it will draw air up at slower speeds. No more holes in the plate or it will be too weak to bother with having it there. I also did a pan drop fluid change when I had the pan out to repair the stripped threads (six quarts), drove it around for about an hour, and then drained and added four more quarts today. During the drive, the temps stayed around 140, and went up to 165 up a steep two mile grade in 3rd gear with my foot nearly to the floor at 45-55MPH. That is at the bottom of the recommended operating range for the GM 700R4. I am just going to drive it for a while without messing with anything.
       
      Last edited: April 24, 2018
    26. Spudhut

      Spudhut US Navy Submariner Elite Explorer

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      Just a thought.....What about adding a small 'scoop' under that plate to direct air upward? I did this on a VW bug years ago for an oil cooler I had under the car because I turbo charged the engine...not alot of space, but extremely effective.
       

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