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Blend Door Actuator Not Working

Discussion in 'A/C & Heater systems - HVAC' started by RobertA, November 13, 2008.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. #1Ford

    #1Ford New Member

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    City, State:
    Calgary, Alberta
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    '01 Explorer Limited
    Heat stuck on 32

    Hey Guys, Bill Here, nice to meet you. I have a '01 Explorer Limited, the heat is stuck on 32, when i change it too 15 it still pumps out heat as if i havent changed it. I have 4 automatic heat controls and 4 Blendoor Actuators, i changed them all and still nothing. I checked all the fuses both in the vehicle and under the hood and all are ok. I got another blendoor actuator today from the scrapyard and pluged it in before i left and the arm wouldnt move, all the blendoor actuators/automatic heat controls cant be bad? I am mechanically inclined but not sure what to do now. Also all the heat controls work on every place u put them and the a/c works, any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

    P.S. I also did the floor/heat/automatic thing to get rid of codes, have code 24/25.
     
    Last edited: February 7, 2016
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  3. carlos.vmc

    carlos.vmc New Member

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    City, State:
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    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    2003 Explorer XLT
    Hi guys,

    think that this is my first post here on the Forum, so please go easy on me. LOL

    I just bought a 03 Explorer XLT 4X4 and it came with a low price and lots of issues as a gift from the Dealer. Now I'm working on it trying to fix them.

    But I got the problem that most of you had of a blend door working but an actuator that is not, my temperature is analog setting so I suppose I can't run the EATC and perform the reset, does someone have an idea of how can I do that?

    I just got the info about the Fuses (#2.#10 and #36) so, that will be the next items that I'll check, but if I can have a way of running this EATC check and resetting the system would be also a great deal!

    Thanks all of you in advance!
     
  4. carlos.vmc

    carlos.vmc New Member

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    City, State:
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    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    2003 Explorer XLT

    Just as an update, I had the previous owner case with me (they left that in the console for some reason) and I tested it, and it was working, so I basically did a surgery with the Actuators, I transplant the gears and motor from the Doorman actuator to the old original actuator (not without a lot of grinding, cleaning and suffering) but now everything works fine on the heater, I use the switch to heat and cold and it selects the temperature, I thought I wouldn't be able to do that, but in the end it costs me 3 hours of a lot of pain, scratched fingers but working temperature regulation as a result, thanks all of you for the posts and hope that the ones that are still facing problems keep on track and fix it, but an advice here, go with the original device on this case.
     
  5. mary tarrant

    mary tarrant New Member

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    2004 lincoln aviator
    what is codes 22 66 on the EATC?
     
  6. Bump429

    Bump429 New Member

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    City, State:
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    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    99 Explorer 5.0 Limited
    I actually got the dorman part to work. I pressed defrost to clear the code and it worked fine!
     
  7. byron9999

    byron9999 New Member

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    2001 Mercury Mountaineer
    For what it's worth I'll add my experience here. I installed a new air door actuator. Then on powering up, I thought, "What's wrong?" --because it would not move at all when i changed the temperature settings. ------ So I found several instances of the same thing happening (not moving) on here and elsewhere. ------- Finally I found that the unit needs to be re-initialized (reset) (not by disconnecting the battery) by pushing specified keys to access the self-diagnostic. ------ So, then I tried it but had no luck. I went back in and looked at a couple of videos on this, and noticed the person was pushing the first two [OFF] and [FLOOR] only very briefly like less than a second, and simultaneously, then let go and pushed [AUTOMATIC] . Lo!, the test pattern came up, ran for thirty seconds, followed by a code of 24 and 25 (bad actuator) so the i did final step: pushing {DEFROST] which cleared the codes thus allowing the unit to work normally. In IT, where i work, we call it re-initializing the controller. ----- My mistake earlier on, when it did not respond, was in holding down the [OFF] and [FLOOR] too long a period, like waiting for a timeup. ----- It is fixed now, the door moves nicely and changes the temperature in response to changing it on the panel... Note: This applies only to the automatic climate control EATC --and the unit must be OFF prior to turning off the ignition key. Then turn the key on and do the pressing of the buttons as indicated. You can retry if the first attempts get bogged down --- Be quick ---- ----- Additional notes as follows: Apparently the trouble codes disable the function in order to prevent further damage or overload. -----The actuator unit i put in (first of all choose the one for the automatic EATC) was not Ford, it was a Techsmart (Standard Motor Products) from Rock Auto, at nice low price. But any of them so long as matched to the automatic EATC should work, with proper procedure, and assuming the door itself has not broken at the pivots. ----- By the way, no reason to dis-assemble the whole car, just remove what is needed such as the glove compartment, and move a few hoses and wires aside. I cut an access hole in the plastic air box just below where the actuator sits. It was about 4 by 4 inch. Just use a draw knife such as made for plexiglass cutting, score it, then break along the scores with a suitable tool. Do not jam screwdrivers in more than a half inch. ---- You can carefully file off rough edges with a rasp file. (carefully) This should allow you to inspect with a mechanics extension mirror (like a dentists mirror), or with fingernails grab the edge of the door to move it (helpful when you install the new one) ------- Next make a template from card stock to find where to cut notches, establish perimeter, mark for holes to punch. Use template to cut out and punch holes in a tinplate piece about a half inch larger all around than the opening. Drill (carefully) holes into the plastic opening same place you punched the holes, use the plate as a guide. Use a drill size about 1/32 smaller than the screws you intend using. I used #8 x 1/2 inch long, hex head self tapping (ie sheet metal screws) Do not use screws that are too large--or the plastic can crack. The plate you made is now your access panel. Put it on to close the air box after the actuator is installed (of course) --- To install the new actuator compare to the old one and be sure the shaft position is about the same as the old one was. It is keyed, one rounded size across from a squared side). To move the shaft, find the correct pins and apply 5 volt to run the dc motor (briefly enough) to move it. To reverse direction just reverse polarity. (CAUTION: Do not use car battery or bad things can happen) To ease insertion, chamfer with a file (conservatively) around the end of the actuator shaft. Use a small bright LED flashlight for inspection of the opening and a mirror to be sure no foreign objects are in the air box (like a dead mouse or one of your tools) If there is a mouse, then a breach of the screen or something has occurred and can cause more problems if another one comes in. --- To insert shaft of new actuator, use a limber hand and sort of feel it in -- meanwhile with your other hand you can move the door edge by reaching in the opening and moving that door a little to match up to the shaft. Once in properly it is sufficient to install the front two screws only, as the back one would be a bitch to put in. As it is you'll be doing a lot of bending and stretching, and maybe a cut or two on your hands. The Ford Explorers are easy for this repair compared to various Ford cars which have less room in there to work. I do not produce videos, but there are a few you can find on Youtube under Ford EATC and Ford air mixture door actuator, or similar. One of the videos shows an access panel cut, and another shows the pushing of the buttons and the resultant test pattern.
     
  8. bgk

    bgk New Member

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    I know this is an old thread but just went through a lot of trouble replacing my blend door actuator and wanted to help others who might be in this boat -- it is mentioned in many posts but the SINGLE MOST important thing to know up front in my case: know which type of HVAC system you have (EATC/automatic has the digital screen with buttons for temp settings; Manual just has knobs you turn manually) and then ENSURE the actuator you buy matches that type of system. Duh! It's not super easy to clarify, so take the time to ensure it's a match. In my case both types showed up as a perfect MATCH for my vehicle on the auto parts site, and not knowing any better I bought the cheapest one (which it turns out was for manual, which I do not have). Both types of actuators look exactly the same and even have the same plug configuration so you'll hook it up and think it's a perfect match, but unless you get the right one it will not work! You'll check fuses and waste time thinking you've got a short somewhere and read a thousand threads when all you had to do was buy the right type! For my 99 Eddie Bauer, the Dorman 604-201 worked first try once I knew the difference (it's EATC). The 604-202 Did not work (it's manual -- and unfortunately that's what I bough first). To add to the confusion, the 604-201 had an extra plastic base fitting attached to the unit, so online and in person it looks totally wrong, but that base fitting just pops off and viola it's perfect! OK, I am sorry for the length and now I will shut up and enjoy the heat.
     
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  9. bgk

    bgk New Member

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    p.s. for the diagnostics you QUICKLY press OFF+FLOOR at the same time, then hit automatic within 2 seconds (do not hold down OFF+FLOOR).
     
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  10. footballboy3

    footballboy3 New Member

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    City, State:
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    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    2000 Explorer Eddie Bauer

    I have been working on this for 6 hours and I finally made it to this post! I got a 604-202 Dorman part from Autozone and I just ordered a -201 on amazon. The local stealership wanted almost $200!!! and I found a Motorcraft on Ebay for about $70 but I think the issues people are having with the Dorman parts is probably that they have to wrong Dorman part number. This post is the first mention of 2 different Dorman part numbers that I've found in hours of working on this and reading forum posts. I really hope this is my fix, I think it will be....now to wait on UPS...... thank you for this info!!!
     

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