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Brake Lines

Discussion in 'Elite Explorer 911!' started by RMBranch, December 30, 2004.

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    1. RMBranch

      RMBranch New Member

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      City, State:
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      Thanks to everyone about bleeding the brakes...Now need to know if anyone out there has changed a left rear brake line (metal line extending from engine compartment/along left framerail/terminating at flex hose). Last night's discovery was that 11 1/2 years of New England salt apparently led to the demise of the line and considering changing the line (or scrapping the truck).

      1) Large portion of brake line is sandwiched between framerail and gas tank. Do I have to drop the tank or has anyone snuck the new line up and past?

      2) Any tips? Don't have a flaring tools yet, but if I need 'em rather spend money on tools than pay to have someone else use 'em.

      Again, thanks to everyone out there for their shared wisdom and advice - transfer case motors, mass air flow sensors, brake questions, etc.
       
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    3. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      I have DOUBLE flared brake lines twice. The first time was on my 1986 Crwon Vic, in the left rear also. The line wore where it laid along the frame going up to the rearend.
      I changed a section about two feet long. I bought a line which had the correct end to match the fitting above the rearend. I bent it to run forward, until it was at a point where I could cut and flare the stock line. The car had 335,000 miles on it when I sold it(mail vehicle).

      The second time was when I added ABS to my 95 Crown Vic. I had to change every brake line on the car. It is a four wheel ABS system, so there are two lines going to the back. I bought the front 55% of those lines from one car, and the rear 55% from another car. I fished them in, and cut and double flared them in the middle.

      Buy the double flaring tool, practice many times, and take your time. Be very patient, and you should be fine. Good luck,
      Don W
       
    4. marragtop

      marragtop Well-Known Member

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      If you don't want to mess with flaring the lines, you should consider replacing the entire line providing you can loosen the connections on each end. I suggest soaking the connections for a day or 2 with PB or WD40. Then try and break them loose with a line wrench (not a regular open end). Once you have the old line off, you can go to any auto store and buy straight line and connectors and bend it as needed.

      Mike
       
    5. Eneurb

      Eneurb Active Member

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      I don't know if your brake lines use double flares or ISO flares (an ISO flare looks almost like a bubble)... both are rather easy to make with the correct tool. You can also install bulk tubing in sections with the correct (made for brake lines) joiners if access is difficult, just make sure that the lines are secured and not rubbing frame rails, the floor, other lines, etc.
       
    6. DeRocha

      DeRocha NEX Vice President Elite Explorer Moderator Emeritus

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      Here is a link to my Rear brake line replacement thread. I replaced the hard line from the ABS controller all the way back to the hose connection above the rear axle. I would recommend you keep the brake fluid level maxed out to prevent the Master cylinder from running dry and introducing air into the system. Once air gets in it will be a PITA to get it out.
      In my thread I dropped the tank to replace the line, but others have snaked new lines in and just cut off the old lines after the job was down. Unless you drop the tank don't even try to remove the hard line next to it. I was leary at first to work with the brake lines. But other members said it was a piece of cake -> they were right :thumbsup: . I bought a tube bender at AutoZone, but most of the bends were made with just my bare hands. Total parts including tube bender, fluid, lines, and fittings were <$30... I bought several lengths of each size of hard line from the auto store and returned the ones I didn't need. Although the job may seam tough it is completely doable and its cheap.... A lot cheaper than buying a new ride for such a minor problem.
       
    7. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Ditto, more information is better. Also, to anyone opening up a brake system with ABS, don't let any air get into the ABS pump itself. Most later ABS pumps cannot be bled without a very special tool, a tool which cannot be bought cheap or locally.

      Air in the pump will make the brakes spongy until you have the pump bled by the special tool(read...dealer tool). Good luck,
      DW
       
    8. RMBranch

      RMBranch New Member

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      Happy New Year, and my wife would like to thank everyone for their help in trying to get big green out of her garage. I'm going to the parts store tomorrow/Tuesday, and we'll see what happens next. Will probably go for the run the new line routine, as the bolts holding the gas tank are *really* corroded and don't feel the energy to snap them/drill out/retap and replace. Life is challenging enough as it is...Sure I'll I have a few more questions before we're done but you've given me the confidence to get it done. Thanks!
       
    9. marragtop

      marragtop Well-Known Member

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      Hopefully you are soaking the 2 ends of the line that you are going to replace with WD40 or PB. Hopefully, you can get them loose with a line wrench, but be prepared to use a small set of vice grips if needed.

      Mike
       

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