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Brakes mushy after SAS

Some of you have read my thread about my SAS and the issues I am having. A little back ground info. I have a Dana 44 in the front and a 9" in the rear, I converted the 9" to disc using one ton Chevy calipers. After getting all the brake lines installed I went to bleed the brakes. While the engine is off the pedal is hard at mostly to the top of its stoke, while running it drops to the floor. Today I bought a master cylinder for a F350 with a much larger bore it seems to be better but not so much that I am confident with it. So the question is: Those of you who have done this swap did you remove the little RABS module in place of something else or did you run it.

Another though is the RABS module has air stuck in it, but I can't see a way to get it out of there, the air that is. So any help or in site you can provide would be much appreciated.

Also the lines coming out of the master cylinder what is the configuration of those? Rear line in the front and front line in the rear?

Eric
 



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I removed all of the ABS stuff from mine and ran all new lines to the MC. I THINK the front port goes to the rear and the back goes to the front like what you said. I'm using the stock MC and it works fine. I have the same setup as you but I am using bravada calipers on my 9".

There's an article on here about puting 8.8 discs on a 1st gen and it says to adjust the pushrod...DON'T DO THIS!
 






I pretty much had the same brake setup as you on my 1st SAS -- Chevy calipers on all four wheels. I did pull the ABS modulator and ran the lines straight to the stock master-cylinder. The brakes were firm and I could lock all four tires on dry pavement (which happened once in PA, unfortunately).
 






Ok so the concesus is to remove the RABS module and run it straight to the rear, that will be my next task. Thanks

Eric
 






If you don't want to run run all new lines you could probably make bypasses to take the place of the pump.
 






And if you still plan on driving on the street, try to add a brake proportioning valve to the rear line.
 






Being it is a 91 there is no ABS pump, just the little RABS module on the frame rail.
 






Mine is a 91 as well and i just ran new lines for the front and used the existing rear lines.


I can lock all 4 up on the street if need be.
 






Did you remove the RABS module Burns?


Eric
 






I think the booster is just stroking out at this point. I am wondering if the stainless lines I got for the front are flexing while I apply the brakes. The issue seems to be in the front. Any thoughts?


Edit: I ran a new line to the rear brakes, but still have the same issue. It almost acts like the calipers are no staying out when the brakes are applied to compensate for the wear if you will they are just sucking back into the caliper.

Edit #2: Thinking of getting a brake booster off a f350 to see if that works.

Eric
 






Dunno how much cash you have set aside for this project - but if ur switching boosters, might consider going the hydro-boost approach.

As for the F-350 booster: thatll def work if the booster has a larger drum diameter (and therefore piston).
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I've got so much cash I have it coming out of my ears. :D What would be the benefit of the hydro boost? My goal is to have this done next week for a local trail ride, I can pick up a booster for 65 bones.
 






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