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Completed Project Brandon's mild 4.0 OHV build

Use this prefix for completed projects that are not "How to" articles or threads asking for help.
So, as of 5 hours ago Ronin8002, or James' built OHV block became mine; and with the stea.. I mean deal I got and all the extra goodies he threw in, he seemed a little too happy to get rid of this thing :shifty_ey... lol! But WOW this thing is in good shape! As a christmas gift from my parents, I've been given the opportunity to really dig into an engine like I've always wanted to do. I've watched and assisted a couple chevy 350 builds over the past few months but have never done anything by myself.. so here goes nothin!

The Meat (James' Block):
- 1995 block bored .030 over and torque honed
- Keith Black Hypereutectic 1995 Style Pistons (staying around 9:1)
- Total Seal piston rings
- Clevite bearings
- Stock Water pump/timing cover (awesome shape!)
- Stock Fuel Rail
- SOHC Oil pump/pan - to strengthen up the bottom end
-- Possible port/polish on the lower intake, we'll see when I get there

The Goodies:
- Comp Cams 49-422-8 Cam
- Comp Cams 988-12 dual valve springs
- 95tm heads with minor porting/polishing

(on the way, supposedly 11/28/10)
- SI sev2027 and sev2028 valves
- Delta Cam rockers
and pushrods will come later down the road when properly measured

I'm going to keep a diary as things progress on the motor, once I get all the parts in it really should start coming together quickly. I'm down for any type of constructive criticism you have, if you don't like the way I'm doing something PLEASE let me know, as this will be my true first solo go at an engine! JD4242 has really given me a lot of direction when it comes to the 4.0, by reading through his posts in the forums I'm still baffled by the amount of knowledge he has of these things. So, many thanks to you JD!

First order of business, I need help tracking down a full gasket kit, reasonably priced as the budget is dwindling down, I hear an ebay seller has them for around $130??, as well as new head stud/bolts. I'm not feeling ARP's $400 set of head bolts/studs. Does anyone have any suggestions or leads on either?

Thanks for lookin! Here's a couple of teaser pics! Pics of the motor when I get it all unpackaged and on a stand.

-Brandon
 

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I thought I had all of them pretty well put in there :/.. I wish I had someone here to turn the key while I watched to figure out where the fuel leak is hahah

I shot a video real fast of the latest start up cause I wanted to come inside and get warm for a bit lol.
 



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A video for you guys;

Note - COLD start up, it did NOT get into full lope. I put it in gear so you could get an idea of what it sounds like.. that failed.

It does sound a little different than this.. for some reason the video makes it sound like a farm tractor? Oh well.

 












You can try putting some vaseline on the injector rings to make sure they get seated completely in the rail/lower intake.

I'm not too familiar with the 96 fuel system. Is it a return style or returnless? Reason I ask is that you could also be leaking from the fuel pressure regulator where it hooks into the rail (for a return style fuel system)

In that case, try the vaseline trick for the fuel presure regulator O-ring also.
 






That much gas it should be easy to find.glad it sound like the code cleared for now
 






James, It's a return system, when I first hooked it all up I noticed I smashed the o-ring on the FPR, had to go replace that, but it's in there and not leaking now. I will definitely try the vaseline method, I really hope I didn't smash any of the O-rings on the injectors as they're going to be darn near impossible to replace. I'm almost there, just have to disconnect the ERG crap to get the upper intake off..
 












Will do, I got down to the fuel rail now, I'm just taking a little breather to get warm. It appears like it's somewhere in the #5 - #6 area, possibly even on the other side near #3 as well.

IS is possible that one of the Injectors themselves is leaking? Like, can fuel literally come out of one of the creases in the body of the injectors?
 






Ive never seen an injector leak out the body. After our rebuild i did have to replace an oring as i pinched it when installing the rail. I used olive oil to lube them the next time. Also, putting the fuel rail on the lower intake before installing the lower intake makes it easier.

~Mark
 












could be the line also
 






Real fast;

What is the correct socket size (star bit?) for the fuel rail studs? I read somewhere it was like a reverse security star T6 or something? I'm going to run up to Lowe's, I used a 5.5mm 5 star bit, I'm not sure I got it torqued all the way down with that.. anyway, anyone know? I'm going to keep searching the forum, I know I seen it somewhere..



EDIT -- Here's an idea, why don't I just take the stud up to Lowe's with me, and try and find the bit..
facepalm.gif
 






E-7 quick enough!!hahha
 






E-7 you say? Jeeezus tap dancing Christola JD is there anything you DON'T KNOW?

I'm going to PM you my number, can you shoot me a text so I can get your number and just text you whenever I have a problem from now on? loL!!
 












Naww my dad Sven Pruett did though!!;) haha j/k
 






This site is where i learned alot!!
 






So far I'm down to the lower intake and valve covers.

I don't know what could cause this other then over tightening the valve covers, but the cork gasket actually is broken around the bolt holes!! I'm going to remove it and use some of the right stuff err I forgot what it was called, squirt on gasket just to be safe. Here's some pictures of the leak; it appears the #4 injector is the culprit so far, it was spraying fuel EVERYWHERE. I did notice dripping fuel on the cam sensor, so I'm going to investigate it further before I put everything back together.

p.s. - Like my vacuum line fix? :p:
 

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