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Brandon's Ongoing Problem/Repair List

Discussion in 'Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers' started by omgyouresexy, January 26, 2009.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. omgyouresexy

    omgyouresexy New Member

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    '99 Eddie Bauer
    So if you've peeked over in the new member section recently, you might have seen that I've joined as a new member who just recently bought a '99 EB from some guy off Craigslist. I got a pretty good deal on it due to a few cosmetic and running problems, most of which I weel would be easy to fix or won't matter if I fix.
    I figured I keep a running list of these issues as sort of a record of what I've done to the car, and possibly provide an opportunity for you guys to give advice if you feel so inclined about what to do or point to some useful how-to threads or websites. I have to run to work in a minute, so I'll just list some of the stuff that's wrong with it and come back and add what my plans are or what I've read might solve the problem later.

    Cosmetic:
    - Flecks of white primer on front passenger panel near wheel from where previous owner was painting his porch - don't know if its oil or latex
    - Broken driver side front bumper trim (that reflective part that goes around the fog lamp) - should be a cheap fix, but I might try an auto salvage yard first before I buy 2 new ones
    - Want to clean the engine components under the hood... not to make it ultra shiny, just to make it look a little nicer and less gunky, just dont know what to use

    Possibly Not Just Cosmetic:
    The same ding that the guy was in that cracked the front bumper trim, he said did something to the driver side panel over the wheel. It seems to have pushed it backwards just enough so that when you open the driver door, it will rub against that side panel and make a loud POP noise as it slides past it. It's not horrible, but kindof annoying and embarrassing. It gives the car a "beater" feel. I don't have any clue how you'd see if you could readjust that panel, like if it's just bolted on or what. I haven;t looked at it to any extent yet.

    Mechanical:
    Cruise Control not working. I did a CC diagnostic test (where you use the steering wheel buttons to do the dash blink test. It said the Brake Deactivation Switch (SCDS) was open or the circuit was bad, so I looked at the master cylinder and, sure enough, it had been unplugged and taped over with electrical tape. I imagine this was the dealership's doing back when they first had that major recall, but the impression I got was that they were supposed to replace that part eventually, and maybe he never took it back in. If it's not still covered, then I know it's a cheap part, I just don't know how to fix it yet.

    Tires:
    I'm petty sure the sticker inside the driver side door recommends a PSI of 30... and this guy had the tires at 38. The rear tires are completely bald in the middle with a ton of tread on the outside. I'll have to buy new rear tires, but in the meantime, should I deflate them all to 30 or 32 and put the front tires (newer with more tread) on the back (since its RWD)? Right now I feel like I'm driving on bald, overinflated tires.

    Brakes:
    After I bought it, I started noticing this very loud squealing noise coming from what sounds like the rear passenger tire. It sounds a lot like a brake squeal, but I'm not pressing the brakes, it's when I first start to accelerate or go in reverse. It quits eventually, but this too is also very embarassing. I noticed the guy never used the emergency brake before and it seems to happen once I started using it. I've stopped in the meantime, but I wonder if maybe the brakes arent retracting enough and rubbing against the rotor slightly as I begin to drive? There is almost NO give to the emergency brake when I press it. I'm barely able to get it down an inch before I can't press it anymore. This seems abnormal to me. Any ideas? I havent looked at the brakes yet. I plan to today or tomorrow.
     
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  3. Four0Sport

    Four0Sport Jack Pewe Elite Explorer

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    you might want to try loosening the bolts that hold the fender on (under the hood on the fender rail, and when you open the door.. in the jam, there are 2 bolts for the fender. try pulling out on the fender, or lining it up better so that it doesnt rub the door. ive had to do this a few times after an accident. good luck!
     
  4. omgyouresexy

    omgyouresexy New Member

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    Four0, thanks for that suggestion. I'll try to look at that when I get home. I forgot to get the jack stands and jack out of my wifes car yesterday so I'll need something to do today before she gets home.

    Any suggestions on a good product to clean the engine? Is it safe to wash down all the parts under the hood with water after spraying it down with a grease cleaner or will the water damage anything?

    Edit: I called the Ford dealership and the SCDS was still good to be repaired by the recall, so hopefully there won't be a problem getting it fixed. I'm at the dealership now getting it taken care of along with an inspection.
     
    Last edited: January 26, 2009
  5. marragtop

    marragtop Well-Known Member

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    Your brake noise could be the rear parking brake shoes hanging up.
     
  6. omgyouresexy

    omgyouresexy New Member

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    Thats what I'm thinking, it hasnt been doing it since I stopped using the parking brake. I'm gonna go take a look at it as soon as my wife gets home (left my jack stands and stuff in her car). You got any idea where the parking brake is in relation to the rear brakes? I don't have any experience with parking brakes for disc brakes, only drums.
     
    Last edited: January 26, 2009
  7. omgyouresexy

    omgyouresexy New Member

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    FWIW, I loosened the bolts suggested and though I wasn't able to pull the panel out more than it already was, I think the act of keeping the bolts loose prevents the door from "popping" the panel. If I tighten them back up, the popping comes back, but only slightly.
    I wanted to get behind the panel if I could, but it seemed like I needed to take the wheel well trim off, which i cant do because of those stupid little plugs that hold it in. When I tried to pry one of them away, it cracked instead of pulling out. Are they designed so that you basically have to tear them out and replace them with new ones? The panel is bent a little down between the wheel well and the door and I was wondering if trying to straighten that out would fix the popping.

    Oh, and is it bad to leave those bolts slightly loosened? The panel shouldnt come off should it.
     
    Last edited: January 26, 2009
  8. James909

    James909 Active Member

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    The parking brake assembly is a small drum brake set up in the hub of the rear rotors. If you remove the calipers the rotors should just pull off revealing the parking brake shoes.
     
  9. Four0Sport

    Four0Sport Jack Pewe Elite Explorer

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    did you try loosening the bolts in the door jam? loosen them, have someone pull out on the fender, the panel the door turns in to when opened, and then tighten the bolts. theyre finicky, be patient, it will come
     
  10. omgyouresexy

    omgyouresexy New Member

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    ^ I undid one bolt. I didnt see another one farther down, btu I may have missed it. Honestly, theres not a lot of room to get in there to unbolt much. I'll take another look at it tomorrow to see if I can find a second bolt.

    ^^ Thanks for that info. I plan on getting to the breaks sometime this week. I'll probably look at this to refresh myself right before I go do it.

    I appreciate all the help and recommendations!
     
  11. Four0Sport

    Four0Sport Jack Pewe Elite Explorer

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    i had to use a long extension to fit in the narrow slit left by the opened door. but it can be done!
     
  12. omgyouresexy

    omgyouresexy New Member

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    Current state of things:

    With the bolts still loose on the side panel, the door doesn't pop anymore. It's much nicer and less embarrassing.

    Also, the SCDS has been replaced for free by the Ford dealership and the cruise control which previously didn't work (which allowed me to pay $200 less for the car), now does.

    I tried to get it inspected and it failed. I need new rear tires, which are currently on their way to my door (thanks Tire Rack).

    --------------------------------------------------------------

    New Stuff:
    Rained this morning, and when I left my house at noon to go get lunch and go to class, water was/had been dripping down from the overhead console. I know the previous owner said that water had leaked in, but he told me it was sealed and that it shouldn't be a problem. Should I call, or just take it off and fix it myself and not say anything.
    I don't really want to call him up, but I definitely need to take off the overhead console and see if I can seal that up somehow, though I have absolutely no idea how. Silicone sealant. It's a little rusted up near where the water is coming in, but I don't know how to address that without putting a lot of money into fixing it.
     
  13. marragtop

    marragtop Well-Known Member

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    If you pull the console and if the leak is coming from an area that the console covers, then you can seal it with just about anything. IF it's caused by a rust hole, sand it down and seal with some JB Weld, or liquid metal. It won't matter what it looks like once you put the console back up.
     
  14. team

    team Active Member

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    use simple green to clean the engine with.
     
  15. omgyouresexy

    omgyouresexy New Member

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    ^^ Will certainly do that. Thats what I wasn't sure about, if I could seal it from the inside, because obviously that would be a lot easier and I could hide it with the center console.

    ^ I'd heard this is good stuff. After I spray it down with that, should I rinse with water liberally or conservatively? Do I need to cover any specific electrical components or openings?
     
  16. Four0Sport

    Four0Sport Jack Pewe Elite Explorer

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    cover ALL electrical components with a plastic bag or something b4 you rinse your motor. do not use high pressure, and do not intentionally spray on an electrical component, even if its covered. GUNK foamy engine brite works great, btw.
     
  17. team

    team Active Member

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    I like to have the engine warm, rinse it first, and then spray it on. Get an old thick paint brush and use it to hit any really dirty spots. Then spray everything off. I like simple green because it is non toxic, doesn't etch the crap out of aluminum, and isn't petroleum based which might mess up my asphalt driveway.
     
  18. omgyouresexy

    omgyouresexy New Member

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    Shit, simple green is what I meant to get at Advance today and didn't. I did, on the other hand get a second bucket for the car washing, some microfiber towels and a washing mitt, cause I didn't have any of that stuff. After reading a thread on here about how bad it is to go to the quarter-operated car wash, I decided it was worth it to do it myself. Plus I figure you save money in the long run.

    Also, pleasant news! After reading in this thread about the overhead consoles tendency to lose the connection to the resistors, and since I wanted to take it out anyway to see if I could repair the leaking from the inside (which I couldnt), I decided to resolder those resistors back on properly. Lo and behold, I hook the console back up and I now have a compass and thermometer up there! :D Yet another couple hundred dollar fix taken care of thanks to some do it yourself attitude and the fine internet establishment.

    Also, I bought some silicone sealant to feed around the window in hopes that it will stop the leak. There's some definite rust damage up there, but I'm not at a point where I can fix that. I'll take a picture and post it when I get some motivation. I feel like eventually that will have to be sanded down, but I know absolutely zero about sanding/painting/body work.

    Tomorrow it's supposed to be sunny and warm. Sounds like a good day for messing with brakes.
     
  19. Four0Sport

    Four0Sport Jack Pewe Elite Explorer

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    advance auto doesnt carry simple green.. they do however carry purple power which is a great all purpose degreaser and is also bio-degradable so it wont harm the environment.
     
  20. omgyouresexy

    omgyouresexy New Member

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    ah crap. had I read this, i would have bought the purple power stuff. I ended up getting the Advance general brand engine cleaner spray. What all should i cover before i do it? The wires where they connect to the spark plug? Maybe the electrical relay up near the cab? Anything else?

    (also note, i don't know where anything is in the engine is, really. i'll have to find it.)
     
  21. Four0Sport

    Four0Sport Jack Pewe Elite Explorer

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    mass air flow sensr, the coil pack, alternator, fuse/power distribution box, throttle body, any exposed wires or sensors.
     

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