Bronco only starts by jumping Solenoid

[Redneckfordf250]

Ok so we have a 84 Ford Bronco II 4x4 Toyo Koygo 5 speed stick shift 2.8L. As of right now I am having problems starting the truck. You turn the key and just get a Brake light nothing else. However if I jump the starter solenoid it start right up (I always put it in the on position so no idea if it starts in off but it does turn off if I put it in off). It starts even when I don't push in the clutch but when she was running before she would start without pushing in the clutch so I don't think it is the sensor.

I am not sure what it could be please let me know if y'all have any ideas.



Also when I put the code reader on the truck she shows 4 cyls firing only but I have put new plugs, wires, and cap (new rotor is coming I just ended up with the wrong one thanks a lot O'rielly).

Trav

 

[colintrax]

Check voltage at the signal wire for the solenoid. If it's not 12 volts when you turn the key to start then you got more investigating to do. If it is then replace the solenoid

 

[Redneckfordf250]

Starter solenoid is brand new. I am not sure what the signal wire is it is such a mess under the hood of that thing. That and I suck and electrical work.
Trav

 

[colintrax]

There should be 3 wires on the solenoid (we are talking about the fender mounted one right?) 1 comes from the battery, another goes to the starter, and then a little itty bitty one comes from the ignition.
Pull the little wire off, hook a multi meter up and try cranking the truck. How many volts is it showing? When my transmission range sensor went out, the signal wire didn't get more than 6 volts and did all kinds of weird things

 

[Redneckfordf250]

the truck won't even crank.
Trav

 

[colintrax]

I'm not saying crank it as in make the engine start. I'm saying turn the key to the start position.

 

[Redneckfordf250]

Ok well autozone is telling me that it is more then likely the ignition switch do y'all think that could be the culprit?
Trav

 

[colintrax]

Don't just waste your time and money throwing parts at it. It's easy to diagnose this. Just follow my directions and we'll figure it out

 

[Redneckfordf250]

I will try it your way as soon as I can borrow my dad's multi meter since I don't have one right now.
Trav

 

[colintrax]

Ok, idk your finicial situation but a cheap multimeter will do what you need and it's very helpful to have.

 

[Redneckfordf250]

I have been hanging off my dad for the past month because I have 0 income. My dad and I both drive the Bronco II and I usually use his tools so its all ok (I am only 18).

One day when I can afford my own tools I will get some but not right yet. I am not very familiar with these ranger based vehicles I mostly work on full size ford trucks so this is sorta new to me although some stuff is similar. Thanks a bunch for the info you have given me.


(by the way my dad said he is going to buy a new ignition switch just because it is so cheap and he wants this trail truck to be reliable (it is mostly his B2 but I do drive it periodically.)

Trav

 

[colintrax]

If y'all really wanna replace the ignition switch go for it but IMHO its a waste of money. The autozone brand switch I got sucks. It just feels cheap when turning the key.

 

[Redneckfordf250]

I thank you much for your opinion it helps a lot. I didn't go to autozone for the switch I went to O'rielly and got the most expensive one so hopefully it helps.
Trav

 

[colintrax]

Any updates?

 

[Redneckfordf250]

Not just yet I had to run some errands yesterday and was suppose to get home quick but my damn Explorer had the water pump fail so I have to fix that today then if I get the chance I will get to the Bronco 2.
Being my explorer is one of our daily drivers I have to get it going first.
Trav

 

[Redneckfordf250]

Ok so did your test and got 1.96 volts??
Replaced key cylinder and ignition switch and no go.
Tried replacing the solenoid with one I know works and still no go.


All I hear is a clicking noise from a relay behind the kick panel on the passenger side and that is when I put it in run position.



On a side note replaced the control module and rotor and she is now running on all 6cyls. (weird having to remember it is a 6cyl not an 8 like my bigger trucks.) LOL
Trav

 

[colintrax]

Forgot about this thread quote me next time lol

Did you ever fix it?
If not, time to figure out why it's only 1.96 volts. Just to be sure, that's 1.96 with the key in the start position right?
Find a reference to the wiring on your truck. And keep going back till you find where the voltage drops at.

Here's my thread when I had a similar problem. Check Koda's post with the link for a wiring diagram
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=409006

 

[squeaky53]

Check the wire from bat to solenoid. It is probably dirty @ battery. Clean the battery cable, post, & wire. This is assuming the bat cable end has been replaced. Take the wires out of the cable end and clean. They are probably dirty or have worked loose. Good luck.

 

[Redneckfordf250]

Forgot about this thread quote me next time lol

Did you ever fix it?
If not, time to figure out why it's only 1.96 volts. Just to be sure, that's 1.96 with the key in the start position right?
Find a reference to the wiring on your truck. And keep going back till you find where the voltage drops at.

Here's my thread when I had a similar problem. Check Koda's post with the link for a wiring diagram
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=409006

No unfortunetly I haven't had time to even touch the truck as I brought home a free motorhome that I got running and that got me distracted.

I was checking out my solenoid from my F150 that I knew worked and the posts were very loose. I decided to buy a brand new solenoid for the bronco II and my F150 which together both were $20. We were inspecting something underneath and found to wires that seemed to have been cut for quite a while both are the clutch safety switch. Problem is I don't know if the one in their is good and no auto parts store sells that and I don't think I have that part from my parts Bronco II.

Yes that was in start position and it was up and down a bit but never over 2.1 volts.

Also I don't think a wiring diagram is going to help being the POs did their own wiring to get rid of a bunch of crap and some parts they did like crap. Unfortunate part is it was a certified mechanic whom did it when the engine was replaced.

Check the wire from bat to solenoid. It is probably dirty @ battery. Clean the battery cable, post, & wire. This is assuming the bat cable end has been replaced. Take the wires out of the cable end and clean. They are probably dirty or have worked loose. Good luck.

After reading colins thread I think I will check both the ground and positive cable both sides. I already replaced the negative terminal because it was so far bad off. I had just cleaned the battery terminals and the terminal but I haven't checked the wires just yet.




On a side note I did jump the old solenoid again just to get her running and used her to move a 24 ft class C Ford motorhome into the yard so that was pretty fun. LOL
Trav

 

[colintrax]

No unfortunetly I haven't had time to even touch the truck as I brought home a free motorhome that I got running and that got me distracted.

I was checking out my solenoid from my F150 that I knew worked and the posts were very loose. I decided to buy a brand new solenoid for the bronco II and my F150 which together both were $20. We were inspecting something underneath and found to wires that seemed to have been cut for quite a while both are the clutch safety switch. Problem is I don't know if the one in their is good and no auto parts store sells that and I don't think I have that part from my parts Bronco II.

Yes that was in start position and it was up and down a bit but never over 2.1 volts.

Also I don't think a wiring diagram is going to help being the POs did their own wiring to get rid of a bunch of crap and some parts they did like crap. Unfortunate part is it was a certified mechanic whom did it when the engine was replaced.


After reading colins thread I think I will check both the ground and positive cable both sides. I already replaced the negative terminal because it was so far bad off. I had just cleaned the battery terminals and the terminal but I haven't checked the wires just yet.




On a side note I did jump the old solenoid again just to get her running and used her to move a 24 ft class C Ford motorhome into the yard so that was pretty fun. LOL
Trav

You've identified the problem is the signal wire, I wouldn't worry about anything else. Battery wires are obviously good enough to start the truck.
If the clutch safety switch wires are cut that would be the problem. However that wouldn't explain why you're getting voltage. Cut wire should be 0. I guess your best bet is to physically trace the wires and keep probing. Or since the wiring is already a mess, just run a new wire from the ignition switch. Not what I'd wanna do but it's up to you