Building a 4.0 OHV for power

[jrock47]

80hp? jesus christ.
my neighbor's friend has a racing 4.0 SOHC that was pulled from a svo mustang, engine has 47k original miles, needs a rebuild from sitting.
1100$. im thinking about picking it up and building it a little bit, bringing it back to snuff and maybe throwing a few upgrades into it to reliably handle 6psi of turbo boost.
if possible i'd really like to keep the 4.0 in the truck, and if i get that 4.0 i could always run it until the OHV thats in it blows (its got like 210k miles) and then just drop the SOHC in with the turbo.

iirc the OHV used the m5od and the SOHC used the m5od-HD, is that true?

 

[MetricMuscle]

RWHP can be effected by anything between the crankshaft and the ground or dyno drum.

 

[410Fortune]

sohc engine into your ttb ranger is not like just swapping OHV 4.0L
The SOHC does not just fit in there and plug in over a weekend
Your Ranger there has TTB, this changes things when considering a conversion. No longer an "engine swap" you are looking at a drivetrain conversion
You will blow up v6 transmissions all day if you achieve your horsepower goals here
I think you are better off considering the SBF for that clean clean monster of a Ranger and 300 hp with tire ripping torque
Cheaper in the long run to abuse the snot out of a v8 and the 1/2 ton transmissions

 

[roscoe 0202]

having worked in a diesel truck shop most of my life a chassis dyno gives you the power numbers available after removing weight or resistance [tires] gear ratio you pick up torque in third gear because you are multiplying with gear ratio horsepower goes down because of resistance of going through the gears in the transmission

roscoe

 

[Mbrooks420]

I’m with 410. I wouldn’t bother building a high hp V6 due mostly to the piss poor transmissions available for them.

 

[jd4242]

I’m with 410. I wouldn’t bother building a high hp V6 due mostly to the piss poor transmissions available for them.

Yep like i said,i blew a m5 about every 3 months and since went to a custom t5 and just blew it up..trans choices suck!!

 

[jrock47]

like i said, im going to be putting a built m5 behind it. and well,l if you think the SOHC conversion will be difficult im not going to do it.
again, im not trying to make any horespower. im going to limit the max RPM to just over 4k, im not going t push any part of the drvietrain very hard. i just want to make it easier for it to cruise in 5th on the highway maybe up a 10% grade with those 33's.
so i'll be installing my t3/t4 into it and running 5.5-6psi. i want to make more torque from 1300-3500rpm, i dont want ot make any extra power past 3700rpm. im not going to ever try to go fast in it, just want more low end power so i never have to get out of 5th on the highway, or maybe even drop into 4th if im pulling a load.
if i wanted to make power out of it i'd go about a 5.4 based powertrain.

 

[jrock47]

what is this "TTB" you keep referring to?

im just trying to make it into a comfortable daily driver. im not trying to race it or tow anything with it. im going to be switching the suspension to full coilover suspension and any work the ranger needs done will be professionally done. replacing everything with top shelf parts.

 

[Mbrooks420]

TTB = twin traction beam. Same as on a First Gen Explorer.

 

[fastpakr]

I absolutely applaud your enthusiasm and high degree of motivation but...........WHAT IN THE ADHD HELL IS GOING ON HERE?

I'm with you. The goals and plans in the works have changed nearly every single post with no logical flow whatsoever.

 

[Mbrooks420]

If you want to make reliable, drivable low end torque I’d ditch those 33s.

 

[corkey]

huge nitrous kit , and lotsa spare **** for when it poops,,,
the trans can't handle much more either,, so get a few of those too

 

[jd4242]

huge nitrous kit , and lotsa spare **** for when it poops,,,
the trans can't handle much more either,, so get a few of those too

Now we're talkn!!

 

[Mbrooks420]

like i said, im going to be putting a built m5 behind it. and well,l if you think the SOHC conversion will be difficult im not going to do it.
again, im not trying to make any horespower. im going to limit the max RPM to just over 4k, im not going t push any part of the drvietrain very hard. i just want to make it easier for it to cruise in 5th on the highway maybe up a 10% grade with those 33's.
so i'll be installing my t3/t4 into it and running 5.5-6psi. i want to make more torque from 1300-3500rpm, i dont want ot make any extra power past 3700rpm. im not going to ever try to go fast in it, just want more low end power so i never have to get out of 5th on the highway, or maybe even drop into 4th if im pulling a load.
if i wanted to make power out of it i'd go about a 5.4 based powertrain.

Pick a goal and stick with it. Earlier in the thread you were talking 300hp with 400ft lb. You are aware these are MASSIVE gains......... right? If you build a motor with these *actual* numbers and not just fantasy ratings most people attribute to their builds you will have a rough time keeping the Mazda 5 speeds together.

 

[fastpakr]

What is a built M5, anyway? What changes do you plan on making, and where are the parts coming from?

 

[jd4242]

What is a built M5, anyway? What changes do you plan on making, and where are the parts coming from?

Hes got a shop that can make him anything remember. ..lol

ASTRO is building me a custom input shaft for my T5 so i can use their A5 kit now that a blew the zspec one up..

 

[jrock47]

speaking realistically, im used to building 440's and 460's and 572's and huge engines that make alot of power. so if im saying numbers that are way too high then im sorry.
im not chasing numbers, im just going to build the engine using the best parts that i can afford and whatever it makes then thats what it makes. im not trying to build huge HP. im trying to build low end torque, thats why im going to use a turbo thats sized so that it will give full-spool before or right at 2k-RPM
im going to put a 410 cam in from comp cams to get a bit more torque through the curve.
i only plan to push 5-6psi MAX on the OHV and i'll never run over that in its lifetime.
i think i'll do a full rebuild on the engine before it sees the 220k mile mark if i recall correctly its got about 211-212k miles on it
all hp/tq numbers im saying would be crank power, not wheel power.
if i gave out what info im going to do to the m5,it wouldnt be a secret. sorry, cant do that mate.
the t-case,transmission,driveshafts, and the axles will be built. but im not going to say at all what im going to do to them or where im going to do it. sorry, my secret.
i'll start off simple with a aftermarket intake, and headers. im going to straight pipe it and any emissions s**t is getting thrown out the window becuase in my city they dont give a f**k about emissions.
if i get a 20hp gain from all the N/A things im doing to it, that'd be fine by me. but what im really looking for is making more torque from 1500-3500.
i COULD ditch the 33's, but f**k that. im not trying to go fast
im thinking about 1.7:1 roller rockers in it.


at the end of the day im 19 and while i have alot of engineering knowledge, i have FAR less mechanical knowledge. i wont be doing any of the work myself and alot of the performance parts will come down to whatever is best for my budget, and use scenario's.
i want more low end power, and honestly after i get the turbo in i might just call it a day and end there.
im not going to push over 220hp through the m5 before i get one built.
my neighbors brother just bought a m5 i pulled out my last ranger and he got it built up and now its sitting behind his 2.3 making 40psi.
"Hardened straight cut gear set and torsion bearings and hardend in and output shafts
Case girtle"
thats what he had done to it.
and its rated to withstand 900hp for the rest of that engines lifetime.

still not saying what im going to do to it.
but im not trying to build alot of power out of it. just trying to make it alright between 1500-3500.

 

[MetricMuscle]

Currently the easiest way to attain your goals is with BOOST! BOOST is kinda like a Honey Badger in that it don't care what other components are willing to do. Poor flowing heads, undersized valves, BOOST don't give a damn! BOOST will be waiting in the intake manifold first to help the intake valve open and then to push an ample intake charge into the cylinders. BOOST don't care if the lobe separation angle isn't just right to create a slight boost effect as rpm increases, BOOST will make that happen NOW! An overfilled cylinder will not only create more displacement but cylinder pressure, and technically dynamic compression, will go way up. The only other way to increase power with less displacement is lots-o static compression and/or more rpm.

Embrace BOOST! BOOST is the answer to the combo you seek.

 

[Mbrooks420]

The 33s will hurt your TORQUE. They will eat your power.

Emissions stuff won’t hurt what little performance you will be getting. Might as roll it back to a carb with that attitude.

Secret transmission mods? That’s very forum oriented behavior. “Hey guys help me out......oh you want some info?...... naw, ancient Chinese secret, brah”.

Good luck.

 

[jrock47]

hell yeah. i was thinking 6psi at 1500-3500. but my neighbor (long time mechanic, built over 40 4.0's over his life, dude makes the BIG $$ just giving advice) thinks the 4.0 and m5 will be rock solid if i only get on it in each gear,never try to power shift,and shift before 4k.
even at 10-15psi. so i think i might just take his advice on that.
i love boost. last boosted truck i drove was a m35a2 pushing 75psi through the 7.8L
thing would do rolling burnouts in 4th+5th all day long. but that was a 200k$ engine lol