Camshaft sychronizer replacement

[dr fildo]

'99 Mounty. 209k. Has anyone replaced the camshaft sychronizer? I would guess it's similar to replacing a distributor.

Is it ok to use a remanufactured part from Advanced Auto, or is this the type of thing I need to get a Motorcraft part for?

 

[vroomzoomboom]

spend the extra couple of bucks and get a motocraft one. every one that i have had that wasnt motorcraft failed, as well as others within around a years time.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Ditto. Don’t buy a cheap replacement. It’s a critical component. Fairly easy to replace. You’ll need the alignment tool, and to be at TDC on compression stroke.

 

[96eb96]

Yeah, the cheap ones (years ago) could snap the roll pin and when that happens your oil pump isn't driven. Hopefully that problem was fixed. Also the gears may not be precise.

I would say get a reman with Ford markings if price is a major issue.

No off brands. Remember your Ford one lasted this long!

 

[koda2000]

I assume 5.0L. If so, get a Motorcraft synchronizer. Too many problems with off-brands.

 

[Selleck2]

I must be doing it wrong then ! 1995 xlp,r 4.0 auto,4wd. I have spent the best part of two days fighting to get to cam-sensor. pulled upper intake and coil pack. Liked to never found sensor--under lower intake. got clamp bolt loose after a lot of cussing, (no room or vision back there ). now the sensor is stuck in intake and I can,t seem to get a grip to pull it out. soaked area with penetrate oil and walked away. have no idea how I,m going to get it back in but I have broken original so have no choice. Secrets to this ??

 

[koda2000]

I don't own a 4.0 OHV, but based on the location of the 4.0 OVH cam synchronizer, I'm thinking you need to remove the upper/lower intake to get it out. Maybe a 4.0 OHV owner will have addition info on this procedure.

Have you looked for a youtube video on the subject? 1A Auto has a lot of good repair videos.

Edit:
I did a little research on this subject and below is a link to what I found. There's very little else out there on this subject. Maybe something in the thread will be helpful to you. Seems the '95 parts are unique and hard to come by (or they were).

1995 Explorer 4.0 cam position sensor/synchronizer.

 

[Selleck2]

Ok, after a bunch of dirty words and lots of Kano I have finially gotten the D@#$% thing out of engine. I have new one in hand but still see no way to (pin) shaft in any static position while trying to re-install. Because its a 95 it uses a 1 pc aluminun sync with site glass. Local Ford mechanics are no help. Anyone have experience with these critters. Just for info I am a pro mechanic with 30yrs plus experience so I have a clue but this is STRANGE.

 

[Mbrooks420]

There’s not an alignment tool for the v6 sync’s?

 

[fast_dave]

As an OHV owner that's done this job (same as pulling a distributor), just confirming what that other guys said; you need an alignment tool to get the job done.

NOTE: Don't pay more than $15 - they are all the same. Get a HIGH VIZ color i.e. Yellow.

In addition to what Mbrooks420 said, if I remember correctly, you need to install the alignment tool on the old synchronizer BEFORE removing it, marking an "index mark" on the rear firewall where the Arrow on the alignment tool is facing.

Then, remove the old synchronizer, remove the alignment tool, and place the alignment tool on the new synchronizer.

As you place/feed the new synchronizer into the block, the gear teeth on the synchronizer will mesh with the gear teeth on the end of the camshaft. As that meshing occurs, the alignment tool arrow will slowly move towards the index mark you made on the firewall.

More than likely you'll have to remove/insert the new synchronizer a few times to hit the index mark exactly - as you'll be a tooth or two off in either direction the first few attempts. It's not a hard job, just a PITA due to the lack of good sight, space, and having to hit the mark spot on. If I remember correctly, it's easiest with the hood off...



Camshaft Synchronizer Alignment Tool Kit Spectra TK01

 

[Selleck2]

Thanks for input. Where I have issue seems to be that mine is early (5/95) 4.0 from all info Ford has given me this is only
year that they installed this sync. I could not access 1 screw to remove switch from sync as it is under corner of intake (lower) . I placed engine @ tdc mark before managing to break it loose from block. Once unit was out I got switch screws out with impact tool. Tool that I,m led to believe I need is similar to hat you pic,d but none of those fit. Too small. Search is o for tool. I may have to try to fab something up to hold shaft in fixed position and fly blind !

 

[fast_dave]

Thanks for input. Where I have issue seems to be that mine is early (5/95) 4.0 from all info Ford has given me this is only
year that they installed this sync. I could not access 1 screw to remove switch from sync as it is under corner of intake (lower) . I placed engine @ tdc mark before managing to break it loose from block. Once unit was out I got switch screws out with impact tool. Tool that I,m led to believe I need is similar to hat you pic,d but none of those fit. Too small. Search is o for tool. I may have to try to fab something up to hold shaft in fixed position and fly blind !

Good Luck and let us know how it goes and how you ultimately fixed it - so that if anything - the info will be documented for somebody else that has this problem in the future!

 

[Selleck2]

Ok guys ,I,m back . Determined after the fact that there is (no) tool for this application. Sync has site window in top that you must align rotor to a mark and try to install blind @ 26deg atdc. Then you install a break out harness into switch wiring and use volt meter while turning sensor to re-set timing. I had set my engine @ TDC before removing sync shaft assembly. I also took pics of rotor in window. Once I managed to get unit out of engine I removed switch assembly from old unit and cut hall effect assembly off plate. I then made a (tool) from wood to hold rotor in place- similar to tool used for (normal) sensor. Once I figured out that Dorman had screwed up fit between oil pump shaft and new sensor shaft
I re-used my old shaft assembly and was able to get unit back in engine with my timing tool and then installed switch into top of shaft assembly.
NOW- I have procured a copy of timing procedure from Ford lit that shows timing proceedure. Since I do not have break-out harness does. anyone have a clue how to back-probe wiring to proform this operation ?

 

[Selleck2]

Back again ! i,ll apologize up front if this gets long but I hope I can help someone else. Here goes.- as noted in previous post I determined that oil pump shaft was in-correct fit in new sync assembly. (I would suggest you use magnet to pull shaft and ck fit before install) because oil shaft was stuck I could not lean unit back enough to clear lower intake ridge, I taped off and covered everything and carefully took a carbide cutter and relieved rear of lower intake enough to get newly installed unit back out. (because oil shaft would not fit completely into bottom of sync I could not get unit to go fully into place. ) At this point I decided it was time to find (ALL) info needed for job. Note :hope you have better luck with dealers than I did.
Got in touch with local MR Fix-it -name of business free plug. He was kind enough to print out Ford procedure instructions from his ALLDATA web site for me. THANK YOU !
Following is condensed info. locate TDC mark on crank --measure 34mm ccw and add new mark @26deg ATDC. Position engine #! cyl @ 26 deg ATDC. Align CID sensor rotor in window with trail edge aligned with short mark. Install into engine @ this position- switch terminals facing rear. once sensor is seated fully traling edge should be aligned with long mark in window. install and lighty tighten clamp bolt.
IMPORTANT-connect CID test harness #T94T-50-B. Break-out harness !
Rotate engine 2 revs in direction of normal and return to installed 26 deg mark--do not go past mark or you must go around again !! This is to remove all wear/slack in timing chain which I have since found is most common cause of fault code.
Using timing harness and voltmeter you set timing to exact point that voltmeter switches for 0 volts to 12 volts. do this slowly as once again if you go past switch point you need to will need to turn sensor clockwise and re-set. FINAL MOVEMENT must be in counterclockwise direction !!
Don,t forget to final tighten clamp bolt >>
Now if you are still reading this a suggestion or two.
To mark 26 deg on crank pulley _ I used a machine rule, layed on top of 1/4" wide plastic tie, mark length @ 34 mm (per info) and cut off square. work tie in hands to form semi-circle form and lay on crank-pulley at TDC mark. 26 deg will be end of tie to left of tdc looking from top/front.
I found no way to do this with out removing upper intake , moving coil pack and dis-connecting plug wires for left bank.
I suggest new upper intake gasket and trust me you will need new seal for EGR pipe in side of upper intake > additional help--before starting loosen EGR pipe @ EGR valve. Two 10mm bolts in from side and 1 hidden bolt under oil dip stick support. As support has no give in it and stud is too tall I cut support in two and repaired after . Small pc metal and two self-drilling screws. Hell after everything else this was minor !
Bottom line -Exploder is running -no fault codes after 2 wks- Momma,s happy and I never want to do this again. If anyone here would like more info or pics of Ford info sheet I will be glad to text them to you, or if someone can post them here I will gladly share > Thanks Jeff