Can a T-case clutch slip? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Can a T-case clutch slip?

Cstoliker

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Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Explorer XLT
Is it possible for a transfer case clutch to slip? I'm not very knowledgeable of the inner workings of transfer cases. But as far as I understand the ball-ramp squeezes a clutch together which drives the front out put shaft. Can the clutch get warn in such a way as to slip under load?
The problems I'm having with my 2000 v6 XLT it seams the front wheels are engaging in 4wd hi/low but are not "locked". Taking a tight turn on dry pavement I get some resistance, binding & noise but not enough to make a wheel skip.
Yesterday in deep snow, in a field & uphill the truck fishtailed most of the way uphill, but dud get there.
Trouble shooting guide says to turn on 4wd with front wheels in the air and try to turn the front driveshaft by hand to confirm if the T-case is locking. Wich would suggest the T-case is either locked or unlocked. I haven't done this yet due to it being in the negative temperatures, but I can defiantly feel the T-case engage in auto when the rear wheels spin. And I do seam to be getting some torque to the front axle. Just feels more like an AWD system then 4wd right now.
 



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Yes, the clutch can slip, these transfer cases do not last forever especially when used off road alot or when abused.
 






Ok. Next question, could a swap the T-case (I know to be good) out if my 95 to my 2000 without too much hassle?

The 95 is the electromagnet stile wich I used brown wire mod to gain 4wd hi rather the "auto"
 






Actually the transfercase in the 95 is the same thing but the GEM was programmed to make it operate slightly differently. You could essentially swap the transfer case but you need the front drive shaft from the 95 also. I'm pretty sure the plugs stayed the same but double check before you go rippin and tearin...
 






Thanks. Yes the plugs are the same.
I just bough the truck yesterday.
Here are my options:
The dealer offers extended protection plains which according to my paper work I have the option to add up to 30 days from vehicle purchase. The lowest plain which covers Transmission and transfer cases (and parts there in) will cost $299 and is good for 3 months or 4,500 miles. But only covers $50/hour labor cost and has a $100 deductible per claim. So if I could find a garage that charges only $50/hour, I could have it fixed for about $400 bucks.

That's probably not far off the cost of just paying to have it fixed?

Or I have a transfer case in the 95 that I know to be good, although it's got nearly 200k miles.

What would you do?
 






Unless you rarely used 4wd in the 95, then I would go with a case with the lowest mileage as possible or rebuilt/reman, or just swap a manual BW1354 into the truck.
 






Thanks. The rebuild kit runs only $150-$250. Any idea what the typical labor time to have it removed-rebuilt & reinstalled?
 






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