Can't Remove Control Arm Bolt

[v_eziwd]

I have an issue with my '97 Explorer XLT where I cannot remove the front driver's side control arm because there's a bolt on the right (located next to some fuel and brake lines) that doesn't have enough room to be pulled out. These lines aren't the issue though, it's the metal pipe behind them which I think might be the power steering line. The 'shield' that is on the end of the bolt hits something no matter how I orient it; if it's not hitting the pipe, it's hitting part of the frame behind the shock. Seems like the Explorers with the V6 don't have this pipe, as mine is a V8 and I can't find any threads that mention it, and most people seem to only encounter the fuel/brake lines. Any ideas? I don't want to resort to cutting it.

 

[Mr. Alligator]

Have you been able to alter the the position of the bolt by rotating the cam which the bolt is fastened to?

 

[XLTrunner]

Granted, I have the SOHC...but, I learned after messing with it for awhile that the arm can be shoved inward a little bit once the bolt is loosened and that gives just enough clearance to remove it while orienting the flat lobe on the bolt. Not sure what you're talking about with the pipe, though.

 

[koda2000]

Granted, I have the SOHC...but, I learned after messing with it for awhile that the arm can be shoved inward a little bit once the bolt is loosened and that gives just enough clearance to remove it while orienting the flat lobe on the bolt. Not sure what you're talking about with the pipe, though.

Yes, they're tricky to get out. Lots of wiggling, pushing, pulling and rotating. I've done this job 6 times now and it never gets much easier, but it can be done.

 

[v_eziwd]

In that case, I'll keep at it. I'll post updates.

 

[swshawaii]

Surprised no mention of removing the hard line clips for extra clearance.
How to: Install camber adjusters 2nd Gen Explorer - Fixing a lowered X's alignment

 

[FijiBill]

You could use a hacksaw to cut off the end of the bolt to make it easier to remove. Then replace with a camber kit--the eccentric washers aren't welded on like stock and go on a lot easier. Plus the alignment shop will be able to set it exact.

 

[v_eziwd]

I ended up cutting the bolt in half after all with a hacksaw. Thanks for the help guys.

You could use a hacksaw to cut off the end of the bolt to make it easier to remove. Then replace with a camber kit--the eccentric washers aren't welded on like stock and go on a lot easier. Plus the alignment shop will be able to set it exact.

Which camber kit would you recommend?

 

[FijiBill]

Moog worked for me!

 

[koda2000]

Surprised no mention of removing the hard line clips for extra clearance.
How to: Install camber adjusters 2nd Gen Explorer - Fixing a lowered X's alignment

I've never found it necessary to remove the hard lines, but I have unsnapped them from their clip(s) and pushed/pried them out of my way. Rotating the OE alignment plate and moving the uca around also helps. I usually remove the front (left) bolt first (after taking the A/C line loose) which may give you a little more movement in the rear/right bolt. It's funny, when you hit the magical position the bolt comes right out. I've found no difference in removing the control arm on a SOHC or V8.

 

[donalds]

I just took on this task I found that if you turn the cam bolt 90 degrees to the engine wiggle uca while pulling on the bolt it will come out and in the same way

 

[GLOCKer]

Oh geez. I'm not looking forward to this.

 

[koda2000]

Oh geez. I'm not looking forward to this.

It's really not that bad. Just be patient and know that it can be done. When I hear people say that they could not get the bolt out and resort to cutting the heads off, I don't get it.

As little side story:
When I was in my 20's, my best friend and I bought Identical BMW motorcycles. I always performed my own maintenance and repairs. When it became time to replace our rear tires we purchased tires. I installed mine w/out a problem. My friend called me and said he could not get his tire to fit over his rim. I reviewed the procedure I'd used with him and he told me that yes, he was doing the same thing and could not get the tire on the rim (same bike, same wheel and same tire/size). I drove over to his house and found he was trying to mount the tire from the brake drum side of the wheel. He'd ruined the tire (exposing the wire bead) and gouged the aluminum rim in his struggle. I pulled the tire off, flipped the wheel over popped the now ruined tire on easily and asked him why he was trying to mount the tire from the back side (which just seemed illogical to me). Sure enough it turned out that the back side of the rim was a little bit larger in diameter than the front (not sure why). His inability to consider this cost him a $120 tire, chewed up his rim and frustrated him. He was always doing stuff like this. He would have cut the control arm bolts off rather than consider he might be doing it wrong.

 

[Turdle]

Oh geez. I'm not looking forward to this.

If you use a combination of sliding the control arm inboard-outboard while sliding the "spacer block" up the bolt while rotating it and pushing it thru, while sticking your tongue out the right corner of your lips ( left corner doesn't work for me) and some fudging, the bolt will come out. The easy thing to do here is loose patience on something you see should work but just won't until it is just right. You do not need a saw.

Or is it the left corner of lips and right doesn't work? Heck, you'll figure it out.

Be sure to replace the bolts with the adjustable camber kit. And avoid the temptation to put them in backward or the alignment guy will have a real hard time adjusting

 

[GLOCKer]

If you use a combination of sliding the control arm inboard-outboard while sliding the "spacer block" up the bolt while rotating it and pushing it thru, while sticking your tongue out the right corner of your lips ( left corner doesn't work for me) and some fudging, the bolt will come out. The easy thing to do here is loose patience on something you see should work but just won't until it is just right. You do not need a saw.

Or is it the left corner of lips and right doesn't work? Heck, you'll figure it out.

Be sure to replace the bolts with the adjustable camber kit. And avoid the temptation to put them in backward or the alignment guy will have a real hard time adjusting

What is the adjustable camber kit? Do you have a link by any chance?

 

[Turdle]

You need 4 total, or, one kit per side. Here are a few choices for you. My criteria would be greater range of adjustment. Factory ones just don't move far enough.

These are replacements for the hard to remove upper control arm bolts, in other words.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...,alignment+caster+/+camber+cam+bolt+kit,13512

 

[FijiBill]

I understand what you guys are saying about a proper repair. I would never, for example, cut a hole in the cabin floor to access the fuel pump--I'd drop the gas tank instead.

But I really can't see any downside to cutting the UCA bolt if you are stuck, as you should be replacing the stock bolt with a camber kit anyway. The recycle guy doesn't care if the bolt is in pieces.

FWIW when I replace hoses, I'll usually cut the old ones too if it makes things even a bit easier. Maybe I am being bad

 

[Turdle]

I understand what you guys are saying about a proper repair. I would never, for example, cut a hole in the cabin floor to access the fuel pump--I'd drop the gas tank instead.

I take that as a jab, so, take this back. The access hole is not for replacing the pump now, it is for when you are actually using your truck for something like exploring other than the soccer fields, and in the middle of nowhere. dropping the tank is fine for mall crawlers but not when you are in the rocks.

Now, as far as the bolt is concerned. do it the right way and it will be out before you can dig out the sawzall.

 

[donalds]

I ...

Now, as far as the bolt is concerned. do it the right way and it will be out before you can dig out the sawzall.

So true

 

[koda2000]

What is the adjustable camber kit? Do you have a link by any chance?

It's a set of bolts with cams to allow more adjustment than the stock plates. Look on RockAuto under caster/chamber kit.

Of the 1/2 dozen times I've replaced ball joints/control arms I've never needed the kits. My alignment guy was always able to get my alignment in spec w/out them. My daughter took her truck to a different tire shop for alignment and the tech installed an adjustable kit on only one side. This kit kept loosening up and ended up costing me 2 new tires and a second alignment at my regular shop.

Will your truck need these kits? There's no way to know until you get an alignment.