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Check engine light on then off (couldn't get codes)

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johnvosh

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City, State
Stony Plain, Alberta
Year, Model & Trim Level
'93 Sport
So I was cruising along the highway coming home the other day at a nice 120 KM/H (75 MPH). Got stuck behind a slow moving truck, so put it into 4th and speed up to 140 KM/H (85 MPH) and put it back into 5th. While doing this the check engine light came on. After I put it back into 5th and slowed back down to 120 KM/H it went out a while later. Also it was about -10 Celsius out.

What could cause this? I had almost a fuel tank of fuel. Spark plugs and such are good. Did an oil change about 300 KM ago. I currently have 300,000 KM (186,000 miles) on it. Before I got it it had sat for a around a year.

Could this possibly be the fuel filter needing to be replaced or the O2 sensors going bad? It hasn't happened since that day. I'm going to be heading on a long trip at the end of the month and want to make sure I'm running in top shape. I just checked my mileage on this last tank and am getting around 13 MPG (65% stop/go & 35% highway, average of 100-120 KM/H).

Sorry my post is so long, just want to make sure I've given all the info to help find an answer. Thanks for any and all help.
 



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the MPG or in your case KMPL sound a bit low so maybe the O2 sensors but being the light went on pull your codes first to see what set that light off.

Then again maybe the ex was telling you not to push her so hard after all she is getting old with a lot of KM under her bod now.
 






Can I pull the codes with the light being off? How many key cycles does it keep codes stored for? 300,000 KM's isn't that much! My old 94 Suburban had 450,000 on the original power train (I got it used) and I had that thing to 130 KM/H in 4HI. That thing never let me down.

I am planning to take and change the O2 sensors, IAC sensor, PVC valve, and the fuel filter before heading on my trip. How many O2's are on this thing, just 2?

Thanks.
 






Can I pull the codes with the light being off?
Absolutely. The computer should store the codes for about 870 "drive cycles" (whatever a drive cycle is, but it should be long enough to hold it for a while).
 






Well I pulled the codes and found out the thing that set it was the MAF sensor. So today I took and cleaned it with some MAF cleaner so hopefully it fixes the problem.

Now the problem I have is the cruise control won't work. I checked all the vacuum hoses and the PCV and everything seems to be good. It worked when I first got it and now it doesn't do anything I push the "on" button and then the "set" button. Any ideas on this one?

Also is it worth it to rebuild the transmission/transfer case/engine on these vehicles? This one is actually in really good shape with not that much rust. I know it costs around $3,000 to get the engine rebuilt correct?
 






Well now that was better then throwing some parts at it I bet.
as for the cruise sorry can not help there past checking fuses and the other simple things like vacuum line or the cable and making sure its getting power and vacuum.

As for rebuilding that’s a personal call but it’s normally cheaper to rebuild then to buy a new auto so that’s how I look at it but some were you have to draw a line on cost. Such as is it a toy that is a hobby or is it a DD that you do not want to keep working on. As some were you will find a line that you will not cross your self but over all if it’s in good shape and you like it its way cheaper then a new auto and better then a new used auto with unknown records.
 






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