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Checkup and Repairs

Inverhyt

Member
Joined
September 11, 2017
Messages
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City, State
Oregon City, OR
Year, Model & Trim Level
96 EB v8 5l
Heyo!

I own a 1996 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer, with the 5l v8 engine. I just replaced my front brake pads (I can actually slow down at a reasonable speed now) and brought the car to a mechanic to perform a checkup on the entire vehicle.

News ain't good, but for a 201k mile vehicle, I didn't expect much.

My oil pan gasket is leaking on to my exhaust and causing a wonderful burning smell after I stop the car. Apparently, it's in a place where they have to take the engine out of the car to seal it. It would cost more than the car's worth to have them do it. I don't have an engine hoist.

My power steering needs to be flushed, front diff needs fluids changed and my transfer case needs fluids changed. At least, that's what I assume, since all this description says is "needs service". Front wheel bearings sound horrid turning around corners and turning the wheel at a dead stop. Mechanic says they need to be replaced in a year or the wheel might go sideways on me.

My engine light is constantly on from a carbon build up in the tubes to my EGR. The EGR has been replaced.

My welding instructor noticed that the camber on my passenger side rear tire was way out of whack. I haven't noticed anything different when driving and I just had the tires rotated. Wear on tread seems to be even.

I just bought this vehicle from family for cheap (Traded a skateboard and $400, so I was not expecting much). I've got tools laying everywhere and a few jacks. What are the cheapest things I can do to increase the life of this car? I'm going to go and pick up a new air filter tomorrow, along with 6 quarts (or more) of synthetic power steering fluid to flush it.

I don't have hundreds on hand, but I'm damn sure I won't need any tools. What do you guys think is going to be the simplest to do, or what should be first on my priority list?
 
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There is no cabin air filter...
 






There is no cabin air filter...

Good catch. I don't know how I got it into my head there was one and convinced myself to get one. Maybe I should take a break for a little...
 






With a high mile OHV engine you may consider high mileage 10W-40 oil. I know that was speced at one time for that motor. It may help the leak.

Wheel bearings could be a safety issue, good idea to do them. I wouldn't get cheapo brand unless you don't want to keep it long or use it occasionally.

PS is easy to DIY, either with a turkey baster over a few trips or putting the return tube in a bucket while someone turns the wheels (off the ground) and you refill it.
 






My first concern would be the wheel brgs, too. If they are making that kind of noise, there's no way I'd wait to replace them. BTW...I've never heard of a wheel brg making a terrible noise when the vehicle is stationary and the strg wheel is turned. You sure there isn't something else going on in the front end?

Also, if you don't already know this...it's critical that all four tires be the same size, tread depth and tire pressure on 4WD/AWD vehicles.
 






Check your valve covers for leaks, the early 5.0s have an aluminum oil pan and tend not to leak much even with high mileage. Most of the oil leak evidence will be on the rear corners of the heads.

I'd definitely jump of the wheel being issue first tho
 






I'll look into getting the bearings replaced soon-ish.
 






My first concern would be the wheel brgs, too. If they are making that kind of noise, there's no way I'd wait to replace them. BTW...I've never heard of a wheel brg making a terrible noise when the vehicle is stationary and the strg wheel is turned. You sure there isn't something else going on in the front end?

Also, if you don't already know this...it's critical that all four tires be the same size, tread depth and tire pressure on 4WD/AWD vehicles.
If the ball joints are original at that mileage they are toast. That would make noise when stationary. Check the boots on them for tears. You can squirt some grease in with a needle to see if things improve. If they do improve, change them ASAP, they are probably getting ready to fail.
 






Check your valve covers for leaks, the early 5.0s have an aluminum oil pan and tend not to leak much even with high mileage. Most of the oil leak evidence will be on the rear corners of the heads.

I'd definitely jump of the wheel being issue first tho


I agree but also the rear main seal should b leaking by now too.
 






If the ball joints are original at that mileage they are toast. That would make noise when stationary. Check the boots on them for tears. You can squirt some grease in with a needle to see if things improve. If they do improve, change them ASAP, they are probably getting ready to fail.

Ball joints are original. Not much has been replaced in this car.

I'll try that but I figure they need to be replaced anyways. Just need the money for it.

Was just going to make sure my throttle cable isn't super stretched out and check how off my TPS is and pop a few zip ties on there.
 






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