Code 214 on my 95

[Texan01]

Ok so the Check engine light and the random hesitation has drove me nuts long enough (a week). I pulled the codes and I am getting a 214 CID error.

Ok, so I read up, and replaced the original Cam Position Sensor (295,000 miles!) with one I had pulled out of the wrecking yard long ago, put it back together and reset the computer, light came on.

Ok... Maybe the crank sensor is flaky, replaced it, starts better but light is still on.

Ok. So maybe ignition control module, I pull the battery out, and pull the module out, looking down into the plug on the module I see what looks to be discolored or melted plastic on pin 9 which appears to be a ground.

Before I shell out the $200 on a new module, is there any way to test it?


Thanks!

 

[Texan01]

Doing some sleuthing i think my PCM might be flaky, I've run out of what i can trace out without a breakout box.

That or my junkyard CMP sensor. Wiring seems to be good as far as I can trace out.

 

[Texan01]

Replaced the PCM, no change, though my false-activation ABS quit pulsing at random intervals. Still hesitates when you stomp on it, drive it like an old man and it never flinches.

Helping a friend move, and I drove it over a speed bump and it killed the truck once. So either my junkyard CMP sensor is bad, or the harness is bad when its installed.

 

[Texan01]

The junkyard sensor was bad as well.

I bit the bullet and bought a new sensor assembly. I had to replace the brake booster on the Chevelle and decided to throw them both on the same ticket from Rock Auto.

Here's the skinny, you CAN replace the assembly with the lower intake in, you can almost do it with the upper in place, but since it's fairly easy to remove, I took mine off.

I took a few sightings of the flag in the sensor itself after removing the electronics, unbolted the trans mount, and jacked the tailshaft up as high as I could which gives plenty of room behind the sensor. I was using a box end wrench, and discovered a slight mistake of after the bolt comes up you are trapped under the sensor drive, but wait! you can use it to pry the body out of the hole. You can almost get a socket on it, if you use a wobble and a short 10mm.

Made the new one match how the old one was positioned and dropped it in place (way way too many distributor swaps done back in the day) cinched it down in about the same angle, bolted it back together and it fired up and ran smooth, with no lights.

The original drive body had a lot of play in it but after 297,000 miles I can't complain.

Now back to racking the miles up on it, and letting the Chevelle get some attention! I prefer driving the Explorer daily rather than the 35 year old 'classic'

 

[ajasko27]

Hi TEXAN01,

When you replaced the sensor assembly did the car run better? Did you get better gas mileage? My Explorers CEL came on last week and the code is 214. My mechanic thinks its the sensors, but wasn't sure if you had to replace the whole assembly or can you just replace the individual sensor? The assembly as you know is like $350 from Ford...the individual sensor is just $30. Will replacing the whole assembly do any good and shut the CEL off?

Keep in mind that my explorer is 18yrs old and has 250k on it. It has a rebuilt tranny, and everything else is newer. Is it worth putting in the money to get it fixed?

How did it run after you replaced the assembly?

Thanks,
aa

 

[Texan01]

I had forgotten I had done that to mine...

It runs like it always does, even at 316,000 miles. mileage didnt change, it didn't start any easier or harder after I did it.

Mine's (March '95 build) kind of an oddball when it comes to engine sensors since 95 was the only year that the 2nd gens had OBD-I/EEC-IV so I had to call it a 94 to get the right sensor.

Now to fix that pesky flashing OD light...

 

[ajasko27]

Thanks. Mine is just barely a 95. It was a May 1995 build. So, later than yours.

My mechanic was just worried that if he replaced the assembly the CEL would t shut off. I'm assuming it will. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks!

 

[93pos17]

Easier fix

I was throwing code 214 on my 93 sport.So I cross checked everything include wire voltage/ continuity. And it came back with 100% cam sensor. The part was $237 at the cheapest. However I had an idea on how to fix it. The top portion held down by two screws is the electric portion of the sensor. I went to my local junkyard and bought just the top piece for 10 bucks (I would expect to pay between 10-20) replaced it and the code went away. Sure beats paying 237 for a new one. Best access with intake manifold off but you can do it with out removing the intake manifold it's a lot harder but it is possible. Just thought I'd share what I found being cheap and effective. It may not fix your problem but it did fix mine and was worth a shot at $10.