332 diagnostic procedure
found this after some digging
thought i would post it....maybe it will help the next guy
Code Specific Test Procedure
DTC 332 - Insufficient EGR flow detected
Possible causes:
EGR valve sticking closed
EGR valve diaphragm leaks
EVR solenoid sticking closed
Loss of vacuum to or from EVR
Open in EVR VPWR or driver circuits
Leak or restriction in PFE/DPFE signal hoses
To diagnose:
Key off
Connect a vacuum pump to the EGR valve.
While observing the EGR valve, slowly apply 34kPa (10 in-Hg) vacuum.
Note:EGR valve should begin to open with a very small amount of vacuum, approximately 3 to 5kPa (1-1.5in-Hg). EGR valve should remain open with vacuum applied or else vacuum diaphragm could be leaking if the valve closes immediately.
Does the EGR valve open smoothly and hold vacuum?
If EGR valve does NOT open smoothly and hold vacuum, Remove and Inspect the EGR valve for signs of diaphragm damage or leakage, contamination, unusual wear, carbon deposits, binding, and other damage. Service as necessary (including cleaning the unit with carb/throttle body cleaner). Clear continuous memory codes. Rerun tests.
If EGR valve does open smoothly and hold vacuum inspect EVR solenoid hoses.
Disconnect EVR vacuum hoses
Verify that hoses are clear of any obsructions, properly routed and will hold vacuum.
Are EVR vacuum hoses in good condition?
If not service vacuum hoses as necessary (generally replacement). Clear continuous memory and rerun tests.
If EVR vacuum hoses ARE in good condition reconnect EVR hoses and inspect PFE/DPFE signal line(s).
Disconnect PFE/DPFE signal hoses at the sensor.
Inspect sensor and signal line(s) for any signs of contamination, obstruction or leaks.
Is there a fault indicated?
If so isolate fault and service as necessary. Clear continuous memory codes and rerun tests.
If not reconnect all components and inspect EVR solenoid.
Note: The contents of this test procedure involve using a breakout box. More than likely you will not have access to one of these. If you find yourself in this situation you have options, but the inexperienced mechanic should probably not try to be creative with this test. Either have the EVR solenoid tested somewhere with the proper equipment or take the chance on it being bad and purchase a new one.
Key off
Disconnect ECU harness connector. Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary.
Install breakout box and connect ECU to breakout box.
Disconnect vacuum hose at EGR valve and connect hose to a vacuum gauge.
Run engine to operating temperature and stabilized idle.
Jump test pin 40 to test pin 33 at the breakout box which should turn ON the EVR solenoid.
While reading the vacuum gauge, tap the EVR solenoid, wiggle the solenoid connector and solenoid vehicle harness. Look for a sudden drop in vacuum reading as you perform each action.
Is there a fault indicated?
If so, isolate and service fault as necessary. Reconnect all components, clear continuous memory, and rerun tests.
If not, test procedures are unable to duplicate and/or identify fault at this time.
Be sure to check the hoses on the DFPE (EGR pressure) sensor and make sure they do not collapse under the vacuum load. I replaced the original factory vacuum hoses on the DFPE and made 2 mistakes. Mistake #1: I bought a DFPE from Autozone and got the error code associated with intermittent signals from the DFPE (code 327, I think) and Mistake #2: The vacuum hoses that Autozone sold me were not nearly as thick walled as the factory originals, so they ended up collapsing under load and restricting flow; thereby, giving me the 332 engine code. The Autozone hoses were labeled for windshield washer and vacuum service, but they weren't nearly strong enough for the DFPE.
