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Convert V8 AWD to BW 4406 Manual Shift- A how to thread

Discussion in 'Offroad Drivelines' started by MountaineerGreen, September 17, 2006.

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    1. MountaineerGreen

      MountaineerGreen Towing Moderator Moderator Emeritus

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      Convert 1996-2001 V8 AWD to Manual Shift BW4406


      EDIT: There is a write up on how to connect the indicator lights a few posts down, near the bottom of the page.

      [​IMG]

      AWD is a great method for putting power to all four wheels, but it does it somewhat inefficiently and doesn’t offer low range. A MANUAL SHIFT BW4406 transfer case from a 97-03 F150 can be installed with a few modifications. Pre 1998 vehicles will need some sort of speed sensor set up, I did not need this, but when a solution is found, I will add this to the thread.

      EDIT
      Speed Sensor issue is this: The 1997 and 1998 Explorers and Mountaineers use a speedo gear on the output shaft of the transfer case. Most of the later model cases do not have this gear, they do have a provision for the sensor, but no gear. I understand a 1997 and possibly a 1998 F150 transfer case has the gear in the case. If you cannot find an older case, all is not lost. 410Fortune figured out how to put a gear on the shaft to convert a later model case for use. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=166605&page=5

      I am not the first person to think of this or do this by far. V8boatbuilder did a great write up here.
      97V8 did a manual conversion that got me spurred on -click here
      These guys did the pioneering and figuring, so I don't mean or want to take the credit for the innovation- I just want to make things clear so that others can do this conversion easily.


      Items needed:

      • Manual shift BW4406 from 1997-2003 F150, there are three part numbers that I know of and cannot find any appreciable difference between them other than possible speed sensor issues.
      • Shift linkage including stick from the same or similar truck as the same transfer case. Edit 10/2012- Be ware the shift linkage from some 5.4 trucks may not work, particularly early (1997 area) vehicles. Thanks to ford99_1979 for this information.
      • 1997-200? Expedition/Navigator 4x4 rear driveshaft. Suspension set up makes no difference that I can tell. Must be from a 5.4 V8 equipped vehicle
      • 1997-200? F150/Expedition front driveshaft (obviously from a 4x4) Must be from a 4.6 V8 equipped vehicle
      • Conversion U Joint Autozone P/N: 185793, PDQ/Brute Force #1-0134.
      • Shift boot of your preference
      • Tube of sealant

      The difference in the front Driveshafts:

      [​IMG]

      Thanks to AMMO_HOOHA I now have the Ford part numbers for the shifter, rod and linkage. Some dealers can't seem to find this stuff in their parts system.

      Lower lever (part that bolts to the transmission) F65Z7210BC
      Upper lever (the rod in the cab) F65Z7210AB
      Rubber boot F75Z7277AA
      Linkage (piece that connects to the t/c) XL3Z7B051AA
      4406 Manual Transfer Knob F2TZ7213A
      4406 Lockout Switch (4wd indicator sensor) 4L327E440AB

      Best guess is about $100 for the linkage parts, no boot or knob.
      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

      I am going to try to put these instructions in the best order, that isn’t necessarily how I did it, I learned as I went. Revisions or suggestions are welcome. I am assuming some level of mechanical ability and safety common sense when typing this, use your best judgment. I was able to do this with a creeper and four jackstands.

      1. Remove center console- remove front piece of console that has the message center or storage pockets, remove cup holder piece that is behind that piece. Near the front of the console, there are two 8mm bolts with large washers that are installed horizontally, take these out. Near the middle of the console on each side there are two more identical bolts that are vertical, use an extension to reach these and a magnet to fish them out. Near the front, there is a wire connector with a 10mm bolt holding the connector together. With the key off, loosen the bolt and disconnect the plug. To remove the console grip it near the back and with a pulling and lifting motion, it should come loose.

      2. Remove the trim near the door that holds the edge of the carpet down and fold the carpet back. It is easier and advisable to remove the seats at this time. It is well worth the effort. Fold the carpet back to expose the plate that covers the top of the transmission and remove the cover.

      3.
      Using a 13mm socket remove the top two bolts that hold the transfer case to the transmission. Leave the cover off and the carpet back.

      4.
      Go under the truck and remove the front and rear drive shafts. The rear requires a 12pt 12mm socket for all four bolts. The front needs a torx bit and an 8mm socket or hand wrench at least if you have the CV style front output.

      5.
      Remove the remaining four bolts that hold the transfer case, pull the vent hose off the barb on the front on and remove the case.

      6.
      This is a good time to have less than a half tank of gas. Put a jack under the gas tank with a board to prevent denting it. Loosen the rear strap using a 13mm socket, but do not remove the bolt.

      7. The front of the tank is held by a bracket that is bolted to the frame. Remove the two 18mm bolts that hold the tank to the bracket. Remove the four 15mm nuts that hold the bracket to the frame. Two of the nuts are on the bottom of the frame, the other two are on top between the frame and body. Remove the bolt pairs from the frame. You may have to tap them with a hammer.

      8. Remove the bracket from the truck. The end of the bracket needs to be bent inward to allow for the bigger 4406 case. I don’t really know how to explain how to do it, but it’s easy to see what has to be done when the case is in.
      Here is what it looks like with the case in:
      [​IMG]
      9. On the 4406 case there are two tabs on the top that need to be ground or cut off so they don’t hit the body. Do that now. You need to "clearance" your body to clear the case. Turdle was nice enough to post a picture with where to hit:

      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]

      10. Making sure the alignment pin is in the case or the transmission, put sealant on the transmission flange and put the 4406 case on the output shaft of the transmission and push it up on the alignment pin. Install the lower four bolts.

      11. Install the shift linkage on the transmission using the two 21mm bolts. Leave the stick off at this point. There is a wiring connector in the way of this linkage held on by two 10mm bolts. Remove both bolts, push the connector forward and hold it on with one bolt in the forward hole. There are two blind holes on the tail shaft housing to bolt the linkage to. Push the link bar over the barbed head on the transfer case.
      [​IMG]
      [​IMG]
      12. Re install the gas tank bracket, it may take several attempts to make it clear the case, I had to try two or three times. Don't forget to tighten the rear strap bolt.

      13. Inside the cab install the upper two bolts in the transfer case.

      14.
      Looking inside the transmission hump, through the access panel, decide where to cut to allow for the shift rod. This is a personal preference on how you do so. After the hole is cut, make sure the stick doesn’t hit the body in any position. I used a BFH to finesse my opening.
      [​IMG]
      15. You may want to fashion a cover to limit mud water and air from entering the cabin, just make certain it doesn’t interfere with the shifter function. Yes, that is a license plate I used to make my cover.
      [​IMG]
      16. Remove the stick and lay the carpet back down. Feel for the opening and cut the carpet to allow the shift stick to pass trough the carpet. I made my cut put the stick through the carpet, let the carpet down, and then installed the bolt that holds the stick to the linkage.
      [​IMG]
      17. Install the rear driveshaft- slip the splined end in the rear of the transfer case and bolt the driveshaft to the rear end. I put the case in neutral to allow me to rotate the driveshaft to line up the bolt holes.

      18. Put the conversion U Joint in one end of the front driveshaft. Reuse the original clamps to attach the front of the driveshaft to the front axle. Use the bolts leftover from the original rear driveshaft to attach the rear flange to the output of the transfer case. I found it easier to line up the bolt holes by leaving the case in neutral, then putting it in gear to torque the bolts.

      19. Jack up all four wheels and have someone start the truck and put it in drive, check for binding or rubbing. I had to trim some of the plastic shield off of my gas tank.
      [​IMG]
      20. Install the shifter boot, knob, trim, console, seats etc.
      [​IMG]
      21. Go Wheelin!
       
      Last edited: October 20, 2012
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    3. MountaineerGreen

      MountaineerGreen Towing Moderator Moderator Emeritus

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      Friday after I finished my install, I took off with my 6000 lb travel trailer. It has never pulled better. The AWD robbed so much power its unreal. I didn't even put my programmer on but didn't need it.

      The steering is definitely lighter and acceleration is faster. The only time I can tell any difference is when driving on gravel and turning.

      I took my carpet out and washed it while I had the console out. When it dries, I am going to install the carpet back and put on the shifter boot I bought today. I think it will work well.
       
    4. 410Fortune

      410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Staff Member Moderator

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      what about the speed sensor issue?
      hehehehe
       
    5. MountaineerGreen

      MountaineerGreen Towing Moderator Moderator Emeritus

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      I'm hoping you will be able to figure that one out-

      I got my carpet put back on today and installed the Mr Gasket shifter boot that I bought at Advance Auto. It had a lovely chrome ring that I covered in charcoal vinyl. It looked like a much closer match when there wasn't a bright flash. I'm overall pleased with the setup. The shifter works well, with a slight bind coming back from 4lo.

      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]
       
      Last edited: January 18, 2007
    6. 410Fortune

      410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Staff Member Moderator

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      I will figure it out but it may delay my install a bit as I need my daily driver shifting properly. :)
      I cant wait to get 2wd!!
       
    7. MountaineerGreen

      MountaineerGreen Towing Moderator Moderator Emeritus

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      while your at it, figure out how to hook up the shft lights. Im going to be searching the Ford CD for a diagram of the F150 wiring.
       
    8. 410Fortune

      410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Staff Member Moderator

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      OH shift lights I can do and will, I have done them before and understand how the dash pot works :)
      1 wire to the light = should work perfect.

      I went to my friend at Ford, um the 97-03 F-150 manual shifter parts are labeled "Do not replace" meaning they don't make them. He said not one dealer in the country has these parts in inventory.

      the search continues! I know 97V8 said he bought his from Ford, well I am SOL on that route!!

      I have been searching for pictures of older F-150 and Bronco transfer cases, looking for one with a tailhousing and speed sensor that will work so I can track one down.

      I am also searching for pictures of the FSB manual T case shift linkage, but I may just have to go pull one from my local U pull it and see if it can work myself.

      fire up the welder!
       
    9. MountaineerGreen

      MountaineerGreen Towing Moderator Moderator Emeritus

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      You should check on the trans from a truck with the manual shifter, thats where I found mine, still bolted to the trans on the shelf. The stick was still in the truck, but the main part of the linkage was on the transmission. If you know someone at the yard they should be able to help.
       
    10. 410Fortune

      410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Staff Member Moderator

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      yes I saw that thanks, problem is the yard with a possible manual T case F-150 is 1 hour drive through traffic........sucks and the guy didnt know if it was a manual t case or not, but he does have the front and rear driveshaft (rear would have to be shortened)
       
    11. MountaineerGreen

      MountaineerGreen Towing Moderator Moderator Emeritus

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      Still cant find an expo rear drive shaft?? They are everywhere here, I can get one for you if you need it. I don't know what it would cost or what shipping would cost, but I can check if you want me to.

      The factory shift setup for these is so nice I would go out of my way to find one. I can call around here and see if I can find one for you, but most of the places are proud of their parts. I dont know if a FSB linkage would work but they should certainly be more available. Id be worried about the length of the rod between the shifter and case as well as what to bolt the shifter base to.
       
    12. 410Fortune

      410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Staff Member Moderator

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      I cant find an expedition in the yard, I found a couple online but my goal here is to find all the parts I need in one sopt, or at least both D shafts.
      I wont have the $$$ for the parts for another 2 weeks so I figure I will keep looking.
      Unless of course we find them all in one spot and they take American Express! hahaha

      the VSS is the big issue as I see it, basically its going to require a new gear on my 4406 case to drive the sensor OR conversion of the 01 sensor signal to work with my 96 computer OR more.....

      The length of the shift linkage rod I am not worried about, I can "adjust" that.
      The shifter itself is about 2' tall in those trucks so that would need mods too, BUT the 1356 t case I have and the 4406 have very similar shift levers and the same shift pattern. Also the 80-90's FSB used a AOD-E trans in some years (95-96?) I THINK, does anyone know?

      Best news of all is I have a complete 5.0L and 4r70w drivetrain in my garage for mock up porposes if needed
       
    13. MountaineerGreen

      MountaineerGreen Towing Moderator Moderator Emeritus

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      The Ford CD does not have wiring diagrams. What I wonder is can I use my GEM, wire the switch on the transfer case to the appropriate pins and my lights work? From what I understand the modules are similar, but vary from year to year.

      410 have you messed with the GEM before?
       
    14. '97 V8

      '97 V8 Well-Known Member

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      Man, that sucks you cant find the linkage and d-shaft. How could that be a do not order pafrt for the linkage? Wierd. I had ordered my linkage on a thursday at 2pm and had it 8am friday morning.

      Im thinking of just making my own gear thingie for the speedo. But as i said before i'll be watching yours.

      Mountaineergreen, you shifter stick sure does stick out there.if mine was like that it would be a pian in the ass.
       
    15. MountaineerGreen

      MountaineerGreen Towing Moderator Moderator Emeritus

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      I was looking at yours wondering why it looked so different, then I realized you have a BL. Now that I have the different boot on, it dosent bother me any at all. I turned my stick the same way as it was in the truck I think.

      Oh, and I lied the Ford CD does have wiring diagrams :confused:
       
    16. MountaineerGreen

      MountaineerGreen Towing Moderator Moderator Emeritus

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      What I have gathered from reading the Ford CD

      The two vehicles are completly different in the way the 4wd works. The F150 has an imput into the PCM when the case is in Four low. The GEM dosen't play as big of a role in the F150 as it does in the Mountaineer.

      The F150 manual case uses two ground leads to indicate 4hi or 4lo from the plug on the front of the case near the shifter. The GEM in my Mountaineer has two outputs for each light. When a ground is applied to the lead, the light illuminates. I think I can run wires from the switch, splice them directly to the wires comming out of my GEM and it should work. I just need the plug that goes into the case so I can have some wires to work with. And I am probably going to have to take my console out again to run the wires...... I have to go back to the salvage yard tomorrow to get a wheel, so I will see if they will let me cut the plug off of the truck body.
       
    17. 410Fortune

      410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Staff Member Moderator

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      or you can run the wires directly to the dash, the other side of the light already is powered full time, putting the ground signal to the bulb, directly from the T case will work, unless you want your GEM to know your in 4x4
      or they completely changed things.......not sure why the GEM cares if you are in 4x4? or LOW?

      Weird.
       
    18. MountaineerGreen

      MountaineerGreen Towing Moderator Moderator Emeritus

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      The only thing I can figure is the PCM regulates the throttle or trans when in 4low. To save from having to pull the gauge cluster, I am going to snip the wires that go from the bulbs to the GEM and attach the wires from the transfer case sender directly. That way all I have to remove is the radio bezel. (theoretically speaking)

      I took a look at the plug on the transfer case, and there is no way I am going to be able to connect wires without the lead that attaches to it. Ill try to take my camera and get pics for a how to on hooking up the lights.
       
    19. MountaineerGreen

      MountaineerGreen Towing Moderator Moderator Emeritus

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      Transfer Case Indicator Lights Hookup

      Using the Ford CD and a pigtail, I wired up the dash lights for my transfer case. It was easy.

      Besides the case, obviously, you need:

      • approx 10 feet of small gauge wire
      • wire connectors

      • relay (optional)

      • wiring diagram of your vehicle

      This is an easy job to do and in my opinion worth the effort.

      1. Remove the radio bezel, there are two screws under the radio to remove it, they are 7mm. Unhook all of the connectors that are hooked to the bezel.

      2. Remove the radio if necessary. I have an aftermarket radio and it came out with the bezel.

      3. On the left side of the hole in the dash, the GEM is mounted vertically.

      [​IMG]

      4. Using your wiring diagram, locate the two wires that go to the dash indicators. I would think many years would be similar, but Ford likes to change things up, so do your research. My wires were grey and light blue w/ black stripe.

      [​IMG]

      5. Now that you have the wires located run the wires from the dash to the bottom side of the body. I ran my wires under the carpet to a plug in the body about the size of a quarter that came out just on the outside of the frame on the drivers side.

      6. Wire the wires to the two coming from the pigtail. It doesn't matter at this point which wire is which, so just hook them up.

      [​IMG]

      7. Find your shift indicator switch on the transfer case. It is near the shift fork and takes a 22mm hand wrench to remove.

      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]

      8. Route the wire away from the driveshaft and plug it into the switch. I ran mine from the plug over the frame, over the shift linkage bar, behind the vent hose to ensure id doesn't get near the driveshaft.

      9. Go back to the cab. The two wires that you found earlier you need to strip some insulation away from. I just took a wire stripper and cut and pushed the insulation.

      [​IMG]

      10. At this point, don't connect the wires permanantly. Pull your case into 4 hi. Taking one wire from the case at a time touch it to the wire that runs to the dash. Find the wire that lights up the 4 high light.

      [​IMG]

      At this point, you need to decide if it will bother you to have both the high and low light on when the case in in low. The switch works by putting a ground signal when the case is in 4 high, when you pull it into 4 low, the 4 high light and the 4 low light will illuminate if you just hook up the wires. It works well enough I guess, but I wanted it to be correct. Using a standard relay, you can do some simple wiring to correct this.

      If It doesn't bother you, hook the wires up and you are done.

      [​IMG]

      EDIT: This sounds confusing, but I don't really know how to make it clearer. (I'm open to suggestions) Once you get in there, it should make more sense. :confused:

      11. To wire the relay, find a 12v positive source. The wire for the cigar lighter comes from the GEM and will work for this. Wire the relay as follows-

      12v + to the 85 post

      Connect the wire from the transfer case that comes on when in 4 low to the 86 post

      Connect the wire from the transfer case that comes on when in 4 high to the 30 post

      Connect a wire from the 87a post to the wire that goes to the 4 high light

      12. Connect the wire from the case that comes on when in 4 low to the wire that goes to the 4 low dash light.

      The way this works is, the ground from the 4 low signal trips the relay, cutting the signal to the 4 high light. The 4 high light now only works when in 4 high.

      [​IMG]

      Thats it, put the radio and bezel back and your done!
       
      Last edited: November 22, 2006
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    20. '97 V8

      '97 V8 Well-Known Member

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      High five to you man. Only 3 of the pics work though..must be my comp. I'll definatly have to do this when i get home in december.

      EDIT: nm the pics work
       
    21. MountaineerGreen

      MountaineerGreen Towing Moderator Moderator Emeritus

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      This was important to me because the wife sometimes drives my rig. She could accidentally knock it into 4 high and drive it that way. I could definitely feel the difference, but I don't know if she would. Id hate for her to burn something up, so this is cheap insurance.
       
    22. AMMO_HOOAH

      AMMO_HOOAH Active Member

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      Great thread, the wireing is very useful. I know 410 had some problems finding the linkage/ shifter parts. I just got mine from Ford, so I figured I'd give you the numbers:

      Lower lever (part that bolts to the transmission) F65Z7210BC
      Upper lever (the rod in the cab) F65Z7210AB
      Rubber boot F75Z7277AA
      Linkage (piece that connects to the t/c) XL3Z7B051AA

      Hope this helps someone out there looking into doing this swap.
       
    23. 410Fortune

      410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Staff Member Moderator

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      You have to be kidding me! My dealer told me its not listed and none are available, and the guy I go to is a friend who knows his stuff!

      I cant wait to rub this in his face hahaha


      Nice post!

      I am making progress, I FOUND my tailhousing, speed sensor, etc :)
       
    24. '97 V8

      '97 V8 Well-Known Member

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      i told ya Jamie, you just didnt believe me. Im heart broken. :p
       
    25. MountaineerGreen

      MountaineerGreen Towing Moderator Moderator Emeritus

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      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      2012 F150 4x4

      Very nice info, thanks! My Ford dealer couldn't find it either (some people need training!) I will update the first post with this.

      Did you do the conversion?
       
    26. AMMO_HOOAH

      AMMO_HOOAH Active Member

      Joined:
      December 16, 2005
      Messages:
      858
      Likes Received:
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      Trophy Points:
      18
      City, State:
      Spokane, Wa
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1996 Ex V8, AWD XLT
      The t/c goes in tomorrow!
       

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