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How to: Convert V8 AWD to BW 4406 Manual Shift- A how to thread

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Got mine 95% done this weekend. Still working on the shifter boot and don't have the front driveshaft in. My Mounty did not have a front driveshaft in it when I bought it. I have to order the clamps and bolts to be able to put it in. I have a question about the front driveshaft, does it matter which end of the shaft goes to the transfer case and which end goes to the front diff?

I got a new set of straps and bolts off-the-shelf at O'Reilly (Autozone didn't have it). They were really cheap... like $12 or something. Check that out, might be cheaper than having it shipped.
 



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Thanks for the info. I drove it to work today, the lever is kind of a pain in my leg. Hope I get used to it. I have to take it to the muffler shop now as I cut all the exhaust off starting with the rear cats and all the way back while I was under there. I patched some exh stuff together to drive it on the road. It made it alot easier to work under the Mounty with no exhaust.
 






Took me long enough:
 






Just finished this on my wifes 98 XLT as well. Now I have two 98 xlt 5.0's with true 4wd in my garage lol.
 






Have an problems arose from the swap over gentlemen?

I have a Mechanic friend back home currently working on this project and want to be sure to give him any heads up on possible bracing needed or preemptive things that might need to be done.

Appreciate the time!
 






wow, a lot of good info here. I put my 4406 in over the weekend and last night I tried to test fit my drive shafts. The front one is just about right but the rear is ~ 5.75" too long. Did I get the one from a 4.6 vs. the 5.4? I know a local place that specializes in drive shafts that can shorten it no problem but I'm looking for some insight.
 






The 5.4 trucks have a shorter rear driveshaft, I'd swap it. It's expensive to have them altered.
 






The 5.4 trucks have a shorter rear driveshaft, I'd swap it. It's expensive to have them altered.

rats, I was afraid of that. I'll check into it I guess. Also, the d-shaft I have must have came off a regular suspension truck, not air-suspension because it has a double cardon on the transmission end. That shouldn't cause any problems right? If anything it will just help with preventing vibrations? I'm going to be putting around 500 hp to it and I don't want it to be weak.
 






The double cardon joint is better, but the extra size will be really tight at the tank. Mine has it also, but I'm using a plastic 1993 tank, so it may or may not be an issue.
 






The double cardon joint is better, but the extra size will be really tight at the tank. Mine has it also, but I'm using a plastic 1993 tank, so it may or may not be an issue.

ok thanks! I'll have to look again but I don't think it'll be an issue because I'm use a sport tank in my 4 door. It's kinda hard to tell because I don't have the engine in yet and the trans and transfercase are free to wiggle around.
 






Are you going to the TOD BW4406, because the manual TC doesn't need the Sport tank. I've got to research which wires are missing to run the TOD/4WD module, Aaron was the first to do that, I hadn't asked him before.
 






Yep, I'm running the TOD BW4406. You probably aren't aware of what I'm doing so I'll fill you in and if you would then please let me know if i need to add wires to get the full function of the T-case.
My truck is a 96 which originally had the 4.0 OHV 4X4. I've been in the process since Christmas doing a double drive train swap with a 97 mountaineer. The mountaineer is done and I'm driving that for now. The straight swap turned into a full rebuild including a new BOSS block and I'm stroking it to a 347 and supercharging it. I didn't want to have AWD so I decided to also do the 4406 swap.

I was to the understanding that the wires were the same between the 4405 and the TOD 4406 with the exception of having the T-case manually lock in 4X4 high vs with the electric clutch only. Did someone figure out how to make the 4406 lock internally with the explorer system?
 






The wiring should be there for your 96 truck, that's a good beginning. I was looking into making the BW4406 lock by using a 98 Expedition GEM, and switch, but I'm not sure if that is going to be feasible. I'll get mine going with the Explorer system first. I'm going to first see if I can cut the fuel tank mounting sections from a 99 Sport tank I bought, and attach/epoxy them to my old 93 plastic 22 gallon tank. The mounting of the tanks is virtually the same between 91-94 models and 95-01's. The later tanks have the added two threaded locations in the front of the tanks. I don't want a 17 gallon capacity tank.

I was hoping to be able to open up the two GEM modules and identify the 4WD circuits, possibly being able to install the Expedition section into the Explorer GEM. Modifying a GEM like that would be the most elegant solution, but another member also was trying to just use the Explorer signals to operate the Expedition switch. I did figure out how to install the Expedition switch into the Explorer bezel, my way would have it look stock and simply have a farther left position to provide the manual 2WD. Times has flown by the last 3-4 years.
 






Wow all those electonics are above my experimentation level; maybe it won't be as over whelming once I have my engine in a running strong. I would love to see a write up on how that is done if you ever figure it out! I'm all about keeping the stock clean look. That is part of the reason I went with the TOD 4406 instead of the manual one. With as much power as I'm going to have though, it would be nice to be able to lock the case into 4X4 with the mechanical part of the T-case.
 






I would like the locking feature for rare times when I need the 4WD full time, lots of snow etc. For traction with high power, I'd hope that the TC clutch can hold the shafts well enough. Locking axles are not ideal for dry conditions.
 






Yeah I understand that. I'm not going to beat on it in 4X4 on dry pavement. I can already foresee the outcome of that. I'll just have to play with it as I go.
 






just picked up a 4406 transfer case from a 98 f150 for 250 cash, it only has 67000 km's on it and what looks to be shift linkage.im going to snap some pics and check its overall condition. I didnt bother to ask for the driveshafts because I want to make sure the t case is still good. also grabbed a shift knob for free.
 






Nope, I haven't had any problems. Minor drive line vibration, and a few little leaks, but other than that, running great. Have done some great trails with the truck, hasn't let me down!!! And now that I've been living with my weird little shifter, and seeing the F-150 one you guys have, I'm pretty happy with my little shifter!!!
 






Preparing for a GO

I see the v8boatbuilder and '97 v8 both did a gas-tank-swap to the sport size - but MountaineerGreen did not, that being said are there any other suggestions before i do this swap, for bracing, install deviations, pre-emptive maintenance that can be done?

thanks in advance, you guys rock
 



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I see the v8boatbuilder and '97 v8 both did a gas-tank-swap to the sport size - but MountaineerGreen did not, that being said are there any other suggestions before i do this swap, for bracing, install deviations, pre-emptive maintenance that can be done?

thanks in advance, you guys rock

They did the gas thank swap because they used a torque on demand T-case, aka the electric shift one. I did the same thing. The people on here that didn't swap the gas tank used a manual shift 4406 and modified the front tank bracket.
 






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