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How to: Convert V8 AWD to BW 4406 Manual Shift- A how to thread

Discussion in 'Offroad Drivelines' started by MountaineerGreen, September 17, 2006.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. fastpakr

    fastpakr Elite Explorer

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    Just a follow up to this. I'd ignored it for a long time because getting the truck itself running was a bigger priority. It's starting to move up the list now that the truck is on the road. One other thing I've noticed is that the power windows also work as long as the headlights are on. So far that one doesn't make any sense to me. Anybody have an idea? @Spudhut ?
     
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  3. CDW6212R

    CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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    That sounds like there's a connection between the accessory delay circuit, and the headlights, a couple of crossed circuits.
     
  4. fastpakr

    fastpakr Elite Explorer

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    It's probably still related to the constant power for the gauge lights feeding across the relay onto the switched accessory wire to fire up the radio. I'll try a diode there so it can't flow that direction to see if it resolves everything. Thanks.
     
  5. CDW6212R

    CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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    If it has some added wiring, that's probably it. I added a bunch of stuff to my 99 for mail delivery, including a power source that also feeds the radio. I added diodes to that and the extra turn signal switches. So I can run the radio without the key at any time. Diodes are cool items.
     
  6. fastpakr

    fastpakr Elite Explorer

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    The only relevant added wiring is what I've done to make the shift lights work, but that's got to be it. Question - any idea what size diode I need? I saw this but wasn't sure if there was a better/cheaper/simpler alternative.
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UVR570
     
  7. CDW6212R

    CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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    That looks like a heavy duty diode, that will work. I went to a local electronics store and asked for one. I gave them my estimate of current(15 amp fuse on the radio), and they suggested a diode. I did the same for my turn signals, and both times it was about $3 a piece for the diodes. I had to ask them which way to wire it in, I wasn't familiar with the symbol on it and which way it means the current flows.
     
  8. mounty71

    mounty71 It's green, not gray. Elite Explorer

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    Sorry to be making an extremely long thread even longer, but I’m getting confused regarding rear driveshafts.

    I did the BW4406 swap a couple of years ago and recently dented my rear driveshaft, so I’m looking to replace it. It currently is the double cardan variation, which I actually got used from someone on here, so I assumed at the time it was the correct one from an Expedition, although now I’m second guessing that for a few reasons. 1) I had to get it shortened about 1” when I did the swap because it seemed too long, and 2) it has never slipped into the t-case output easily, requiring several minutes worth of pounding with a dead blow to get it to slide on. 3) It has always leaked a tiny bit of fluid between the output seal and slip yoke, even with new seals.

    Fast forward to today, I went to a junkyard and found 2 different styles of rear driveshaft, both of which just have a single u-joint at the t-case but are totally different in several ways. One Expedition definitely has a 5.4 engine, and I’m pretty sure the second does as well, although it’s hard to identify with the condition the vehicles are in. Both have 9.75 rear ends, and 4r100 transmissions, so I would have thought the driveshafts would need to be the same. I don’t recall either vehicle having air suspension either.

    You can see in the pictures the differences. They are about 1” different in length. The slip yokes are totally different, the shorter shaft with a more rounded yoke and only one “registration” spline vs the longer one having a larger squared style and 2 of those registration splines. You can also see the splines stop before the end of the slip yoke on one, and go all the way to the end on the other. The rear flanges that bolt to the rear axle pinion are also different, although the hole pattern is identical. Diameters of both the shaft and the slip yoke are the same as far as I can tell.

    I’m having a hard time finding pictures of which driveshaft is the correct one, and in hopes of avoiding the tedious removal of my current driveshaft, I’m hoping some of you can offer some clarity. Maybe you guys can measure your non-double cardan shaft lengths?

    029945CC-2683-4762-98C7-2B166C44F677.jpeg

    939BB6EC-469D-4AF4-A174-D436F793A26D.jpeg

    398EB491-26F0-4C4E-9674-96328489934C.jpeg

    9871282C-DFAD-4611-8783-EB5D689BDCB6.jpeg

    AD1A9CC1-85BA-49EC-94B1-870B3F22C5B5.jpeg

    8386E8FE-22ED-4383-B305-A5986F30E557.jpeg

    24A7611C-679B-4B0B-894F-46CDD45932FE.jpeg

    This is my current driveshaft.
    4002068A-6199-471D-9311-632B7F34D6A2.jpeg
     
  9. SWIGIN

    SWIGIN Active Member

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    The bottom DS in my pic shows the one I used and it worked perfect. The part number matches your second to last pic.

    [​IMG]
     
  10. 410Fortune

    410Fortune River season Staff Member Moderator

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    I am sure you already sorted this out but, It should NOT require pounding to get the d shaft to slide into the tailhousing! It should slide easily and fit snug to the tailhousing seal
    Getting the right rear D shaft can be tricky, there are so many different ones out there. The ones I used originally when I first did this to my 96 Explorer were from a 97-98 expedition with solid rear axle and a 4.6L engine

    Since those have become very hard to find I usually just get the rear shaft from the F150 (4.6L trucks) and have it shortened to fit my project (re tubed)
     
  11. mounty71

    mounty71 It's green, not gray. Elite Explorer

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    I went back to the junkyard and got both just to be safe, and the shorter one that SWIGIN mentioned was the better fit. Surprisingly the old one slid out of the t-case without any hammering, but the new one did require some persuasion. Must be something about the output shaft on mine.

    By the way, here are a few more comparison pictures for anyone who’s interested. The double cardan allows a tiny bit more angle, and the slip yoke also only has one “registration” spline, although the output shaft just has regular splines completely around the shaft so they really make no difference. Also the double cardan is slightly smaller in overall diameter. The yoke of the single u-joint shaft kisses the gas tank cover.

    B58C298C-E204-44A5-8364-9A4D7C0BA09B.jpeg

    7CFD4036-8523-4314-9196-D453DA0FDE58.jpeg

    C03A54B1-E5BA-4C9E-A2BB-51F6F81C91B6.jpeg
     
  12. 410Fortune

    410Fortune River season Staff Member Moderator

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    what are those 3 shafts out of (for reference)? Should put the info with the pic
    Why does your shop/garage have yellow parking stripes?

    I have had to hack away at gas tank covers more then once, the plastic cover gets trimmed near the driveline when they have that big round flange.
     
  13. mounty71

    mounty71 It's green, not gray. Elite Explorer

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    Hopefully that helps. Also neither top nor bottom came off vehicles with rear air suspension. And that’s a parking garage, I live in an apartment building.

    85DE7838-84E7-486F-99F2-20B470D6F494.jpeg
     
  14. 410Fortune

    410Fortune River season Staff Member Moderator

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    wicked good
    Which one worked again? No 4.6 trucks around you? LOL
    I would have to go back and read but Im 99.9% sure the rear d shaft I used in my 96 was from a 97 Expedition 4.6L and it bolted in. The front shaft bolted in too but it was TIGHT. Years later I learned that I can remove 1" from both sides of the slip yoke (grinder and file) and make the front d shaft slip right in (1" from both sides = 1/2" overlap gained)
     
  15. mounty71

    mounty71 It's green, not gray. Elite Explorer

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    I didn’t even try a 4.6 shaft because everyone says the 5.4 is what is needed. The one from the 1999 expedition is what I used, which is slightly shorter. Surprisingly, the front shaft (presumably from a 4.6) bolted right in for me, which is nothing short of miraculous considering it’s a 2nd gen with TTB.
     
  16. 410Fortune

    410Fortune River season Staff Member Moderator

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    well the front diff and the t case are still in a similar location gen I vs Gen II, etc
    Does the front shaft have enough slip for your ttb setup?
    COOL!
     
  17. mounty71

    mounty71 It's green, not gray. Elite Explorer

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    Yeah because of the length of my radius arms, it barely needs any slip at all.
     

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