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correct parts #'s 4.0sohc guides & tensioners with pics...

Discussion in 'Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers' started by project92, October 24, 2008.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. 99SportX

    99SportX Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for posting these numbers. I looked up the part number for that washer seal and nothing came up on Tasca.

    [​IMG]
     
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  3. janolsson

    janolsson Well-Known Member

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    Yes i tried this also and did not come up with anything. I will have a look tommorrow and see if i can find any other part no. on the packaging that'll help. You could try phoning tasca and asking them to look. I think it was listed as a gasket on the label.

    On another note i have part numbers for the piston and rotor assy for the oil pump and tasca don't come up with anything for these either.
     
  4. ford slave

    ford slave New Member

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    well guys,i am new here and have enjoyed the thread.very interesting since i have issues of my own.i own a 2000 explorer 4.0L sohc,just installed an used engine from a used autoparts,started engine sunday 17th nasty rattle.figured it would be lifters waited for them to charge,now it doesn't sound like a rattle,it's more like a clak,clak,clak more like a lifter on left side.i did remove left valve cover and chain and guides seem just fine.any advise would help on cheking lifters and or rockers THANKS EVERYONE!!!
     
  5. janolsson

    janolsson Well-Known Member

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    A clak clak sound sounds like chain slap to me. It could be the crank to jackshaft or the jackshaft to cam, the latter being the most likely. The reason i say that one is that the cam turns once for every 2 turns of the crank. If the guid on the cassette is busted then this will happen. Another cause could be the oil tensioner bolt is weak. Before you go tearing into the front of the engine try replacing the tensioner (do the 00m12 kit) and see if it quiets down or remove the valve cover and give the guides a good once over even watching movement while someone cranks the engine (disable fuel or coil)
     
  6. sabasigh

    sabasigh Active Member

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    Well I just did the 00M12 kit on my 189k 2000 Ford Explorer. Manifold gaskets needed replacement, but I saw there was already the oil restrictor rod inserted. When I installed the replacement tensioner, naturally I overtighted it and almost shredded the thin washer.

    I removed it, took the old washer and placed it on the new tensioner. Re-tightened it to 32 or 36 lbs and buttoned everything up.

    Started it up and god almighty, the knocking was heartbreaking! Like the chain is slapping something. Really loud...I may reinstall the old tensioner.

    Is it possible my over tightening broke the guides/cassette?? Someone please tell me heck no! :(
     
  7. 2000StreetRod

    2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    time to inspect

    When you install a new hydraulic tensioner it takes a while for the oil pressure to build up. The spring tension is inadequate to keep the chain tight so there is more slap. It is very unlikely that tightening the tensioner broke the guide. I suspect one of more of the guides has been broken for some time.

    It's a shame that you didn't pull the valve covers and inspect the upper sections of the cassettes when you had the upper intake manifold removed.

    SOHC V6 Timing Chain Inspection & Repair
     
  8. ford slave

    ford slave New Member

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    97-06 4.0L Ford Explorer Vin E, K SOHC Timing Chain Kit

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    97-06 4.0L Ford Explorer Vin E, K SOHC Timing Chain Kit
     
  9. ford slave

    ford slave New Member

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    Description

    Brand New Timing Chain Kit for:

    1997-2006 4.0L (245ci) FORD EXPLORER V6 VIN E, K SOHC (FLEX FUEL)

    1997-2006 4.0L (245ci) MERCURY MOUNTAINEER V6 VIN E, K SOHC (FLEX FUEL)

    2001-2006 4.0L (245ci) FORD RANGER V6 VIN E, K SOHC (FLEX FUEL)




    Part Numbers: TK8-20700



    This Item Includes:




    + 4 Timing Chain
    + 4 Sprocket
    + 4 Tensioner
    + 4 Guide Rail
    + 1 Oil Seal


    Note:

    Please refer to the listing pictures for an accurate description of the parts included in the kit.
     
  10. sabasigh

    sabasigh Active Member

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    Good grief...my perfect luck. I pulled out my new tensioner:
    [​IMG]

    Completely collasped...WTFF (what the effing eff?)

    Put the old one back in and back on the road...for now.
     
  11. 2000StreetRod

    2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    another weird tensioner problem

    Did you purchase the tensioner from Ford?

    Did you check to see if the piston moved freely and the spring extended the piston before installation?

    Is there an oil port in the housing close to the sealing face?

    Did the spring break or is the piston stuck in the housing?

    The tensioner could have been defective but I don't understand why it was forced to the fully retracted position.
     
  12. sabasigh

    sabasigh Active Member

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    I bought the 00M12 kit part #YL-2Z-9E473-AA from midtennfordparts.com

    I gave it a finger push test and it had some spring.

    Yes
    I believe it's broke and stuck.
     
  13. janolsson

    janolsson Well-Known Member

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    I believe this is the second one i've seen on here recently with this prob. I think i'll be inspecting the new one i just got shipped.
    Sabasigh, how does the quality of the new one stack up to the old one (machining wise, the oil port, the metal of the plunger)??
     
  14. janolsson

    janolsson Well-Known Member

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    I have bought one of those kits before. The guides seem fine but the casting of the metal arm on the cassettes was substandard and the chains are not anywhere near the quality of the genuine ford ones. As i am in the uk i had to take it on the chin.
     
  15. sabasigh

    sabasigh Active Member

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    I believe they are identical right down to a little blue dot on the head of the tensioner.

    As I said earlier, I really over tightened it and when I took it back out (having not started it yet) the plunger seemed fine at this time.

    I "think" what happened is on the first start after I got everything buttoned up...is that it cranked and cranked and cranked before ever firing. Maybe it was too much for the tensioner?
     
  16. janolsson

    janolsson Well-Known Member

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    when you put in a new tensioner it is a good idea to disable the fuel or spark for a few cranks to let oil pressure build up. So if yours cranked a few times before firing it would be a good thing rather than causing the prob
     
  17. ford slave

    ford slave New Member

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    well pulled engine out and set it on a stand removed valve covers and timming chain cover to discover all was in place and well.went to check timming but crank pulley would not land on tdc 0 degree mark it would spring past 0 degree or stop in between 0 and 10 degree marks.after attempting several times now the crank wount turn at all not clockwise nor counter.what could this problem be?i rand this engine three different times it sounded like a loud rattle while it wormed up but at normal temp. it was like a lifter sound except louder or stronger.
     
  18. janolsson

    janolsson Well-Known Member

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    First off don't turn the motor counterclockwise as it can damage the guides.
    If it jams then the timing could be out enough to have the valves contacting one of the cylinder. It could also be the rear cassette guide broken and jamming the chain.
    First off check all the cassette guides etc are not jamming. Then you can slaken off the cam sprocket bolts (the right hand/rear sprocket bolt is clockwise to undo) and turn the cams to neutral position so none of the valves are depressed. Then you should be able to put the block at #1 TDC. then lock the right cam in the correct position then do the left cam. This can be done without the otc 6488 tools as documented by a few members but it is faster and easier with the tools.
    Jan
     
  19. CDW6212R

    CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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    Don't loosen any bolts until the crank is at TDC. Don't break the connection between the crank and cams unless the crank is at TDC. It isn't a good idea to turn any of the three without the other two turning at the same time, in unison. Don't bet on being able to do that and not have any valves bend when they touch pistons.

    Don't risk it, always turn the whole assembly to TDC before doing any work on the timing of the crank and cams.
     
  20. ford slave

    ford slave New Member

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    well, thanks guys! like i said,i've inspected all guides everything checksout well,just ordered tool kit otc 6488 yesterday from tool topia for $172.00 shipped.guess i will proceed then to be on the safe side.will keep yall posted.
     
  21. Bernie Mac

    Bernie Mac New Member

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    Hi guys
    I'm new here but happy to have found the forum. Here's my first post and request for help.
    I have a '98 Explorer XLT that last week was running fine (I thought) after stopping at Lowes for a piece of 2x12 for another project, it tried to start but after a second of two or rattling and shaking along with a metallic marbling sound it died and would not re-start. After making a new acquaintance with the AAA tow truck driver and a short tow home I checked for fuel pressure. None...7 weeks ago I replaced the fuel pump with a new NAPA pump / new filters too!
    After a few hours installed the "new" replacement pump - no pressure. Two days later the third pump shows pressure but no start.
    I checked compression and found the left bank to have 125-135PSI. However the right bank no pressure anywhere.
    So now I'm thinking, heads need removed and a few new valves to be replaced along with new chains and all the goodies.
    Any suggestion before I start the engine pull?
    All reply's are welcome...
    Thanks -=- Bernie Mac
     

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