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correct parts #'s 4.0sohc guides & tensioners with pics...

Discussion in 'Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers' started by project92, October 24, 2008.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. 03Mach1

    03Mach1 Member

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    So lets see if I have this correct.

    P/N 7U3Z6A257A - Left front cassette. This should include new chain and guides, and from what I can see gears as well.

    P/N 4L2Z6M290AA - Right Rear cassette. This should include new chain and guides, looks like it also comes with new gears.

    Will new tensioners come with this? If so are they the most current tensioners that would be part of 00M12?

    Anyone have the part number for the guides on the chain going from the crank to the jackshaft at the front of the motor?

    Seeing as I think my right chain guides bit the dust if the motor has to be pulled I might as well replace them all while I am in there.
     
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  3. janolsson

    janolsson Well-Known Member

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    Post #52 has a picture with all the part numbers. The 00m12 kit only has the front bolt tensioner along with the upper and lower intake gaskets and oil way restrictor pencil for the front. The rear tensioner bolt has to be bought separately. You will also need a new rear jackshaft bolt as this is torque to yield and a new rear cover for this bolt.
    The cassettes do have the sprockets included.
    If you have 4wd you will also have the balance shaft so be sure to check the condition of the tensioner on this carefully. Mine was cracked but you could not tell unless you depressed it away from the chain.
    Sprocket to cam bolts can be reused. as can the rear cassette bolts unless the chain has mangled the top one (ask me how i know)
    The balancer bolt is also TTY so has to be renewed.
    Get or borrow the otc 6488 tools for the timing.
    After reading a few threads on this job, once you get in there with the spanners it will all make sense.
    good luck
     
  4. 03Mach1

    03Mach1 Member

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    Is removing the rear jackshaft bolt required?

    It seems as though you should be able to keep the rear jackshaft cog in place throughout the process.
     
  5. sarahsdaddy

    sarahsdaddy New Member

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    Okay, I've read this and a different 15(!) page thread and am still a bit confused. I've got the death rattle, and am reasonably handy mechanically, just not experienced with Fords. I look at my engine and see all kinds of pulleys and the serpentine belt up front yet what I gather from all these posts is that to replace the main tensioner and guide is that I don't need to remove all that much, not even the radiator. Is this correct? Any estimate of time for a shade tree mechanic? Basically how big a mess is this? I know I also need to drop the pan and clear broken debris. Any ideas of the labor a shop would charge? I know a full chain replacement can be $1500 or so but what about just this much? If it's just a few hundred I may just pay someone. Thanks.
     
  6. CDW6212R

    CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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    The upper intake has to come off to get to the front external tensioner. The back one you can do by getting the back of the right inner fender out of the way.

    For the front internal parts, including the plastic guide, the front timing cover has to come off. That means the whole front dress, the balancer, and the radiator if you want more room.

    To get the upper oil pan off, expect to be lifting the engine off of the mounts slightly. That means unbolting the mount nuts, and the collectors. If it's 4WD/AWD then you have to drop the front diff.

    The rear engine parts work requires pulling the engine or trans(do the engine).

    The parts are not expensive, but the special timing tools are not cheap($150+). If you go in there, replace as much as you can afford of the other non guide/tensioners problem. Do the jackshaft chain and all guides, the gears too if you can.
     
  7. sarahsdaddy

    sarahsdaddy New Member

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    Thanks. It almost sounds like the worst part is the oil pan! What is the deal with that being so difficult? When you say upper oil pan do you mean the one with the drain plug? My manual only indicates one oil pan.

    Also, just dropping the radiator doesn't seem to be the most casual thing to do. It seems the tranny radiator is integrated with it so I guess I have to at least partly drain that and seal off the connections, no?

    The Ex has 206k miles but is not my daily driver and is only getting 5-6k/yr now so unless the timing chains show some sign of great wear I'm trying to do the minimum and hope it carries me the rest of my days with it.

    I must say that after twenty years of working on gas and diesel VWs this Explorer has been a real trip in many ways. For instance, the ordeal of replacing the spark plugs was something else. The previous owner must have cemented them in, but the odd reaches and awkward angles on some of them
     
  8. CDW6212R

    CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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    Consider the value of the truck, and what a V8 version would cost to trade to. I've got both, and the SOHC and V6 trans are not the most reliable things.

    The lower oil pan is shallow and likely not enough to get everything out of the upper pan. Start with the lower and see how tight it is up in there. I was changing the oil pump and balance shaft timing, so I had to do it all.

    The radiator is not bad in the V6 trucks, the AC condenser is not attached to it like with the 302 version. The trans lines are no issue, very little ATF will come out.
     
  9. BubbaFL

    BubbaFL Active Member

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    Does anyone have a source for reasonable prices on individual timing parts? I need a left chain guide, right chain guide, and a left chain.

    I've checked all of the sites mentioned previously in this thread, and for the price of those couple parts I could get the entire kit off ebay.

    Thanks!
     
  10. 2000StreetRod

    2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    cassette only available

    The cassette individual components are no longer available from the dealers. It is unlikely that you will find any guides available second hand because they fail much more often than the chains. According to reports from other members the guides in the inexpensive kits on eBay are junk. Personally, I would not take the time to pull the engine to install junk in it. When the junk breaks the cost to replace the valves, head gasket and head bolts will be much more than the cost of a quality cassette. In general, overhead cam engines whether they use belts or chains require periodic replacement of the timing mechanism. I think chains are superior to belts but Ford lost the advantage with their incorporation of the plastic guide assemblies.
     
  11. CDW6212R

    CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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    Ditto, the Ford cassettes were $60 a set when I bought them. Check TascaFord.com
     
  12. elrynon

    elrynon Member

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    Crush washer

    I've looked around online and can't find a straight answer. Does anyone know if ANY aluminum/copper washer (right size of course) will work for the tensioners? I bought mine online for about half the price of the stealership, but sadly they didn't come with any washers. Called all the local stealerships and they want about $10 after tax for EACH washer. Cheapest I found them online were about $6 a piece (after s&h it'll be close to the same) I've checked all the big box stores and either people A)don't have a CLUE what I'm talking about or B)tell me to go to the stealership. :banghead:


    I've seen on some forums people talk about just using any aluminum/copper washer but THEN other people chime in and start talking about a certain "series" of aluminum for it to be soft enough.....:dunno:

    On top of that, when I google aluminum crush washers I see beveled ones and I see flat ones. I realize it would probably be "easier" to just go buy the damn things but I REFUSE to pay $10 for ONE freaking washer. That's just stupid. If they would have told me $10 for a BOX of them......sure, now we're talking. Thanks for the help guys.
     
  13. CDW6212R

    CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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    If you still have the old ones, use them. The old washers are not ideal, but they can be used more easily than any part which isn't close to the same dimensions. I'd buy new parts if possible, both of mine came with them from Ford(2005). But I did have to go back in later, and I reused the washers.

    If needed, just add a very thin film of Ultra RTV on the two surfaces, but don't use too much. The old parts should work fine even "dry", but any imperfection from previous use might end up with a slight leak. That's all the RTV would be needed for, to fill any such tiny scratches in the washer etc.
     
  14. elrynon

    elrynon Member

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    Honestly, and this is just from looking and without removing the tensioners yet, it doesn't look like there's any washers at all. I KNOW this goes against everything I've read, but when I've looked at the tensioners it HONESTLY looks like it's just metal on metal. Unless the washer gets crushed that thin? Doesn't seem like it would make sense to me though. What happens if I remove the old tensioners and "just in case" there AREN'T any washers to do what you were saying with the RTV? (I'm a worst case scenario kind of person. :D)
     
  15. CDW6212R

    CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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    The washers are extremely thin, say maybe .020" when new. I doubt that they would be missing from an engine unless someone did leave them out. The surfaces which mate there are close to matching, so the washer is just to be sure that there is a more positive seal than relying on metal to metal contact of the two parts to be the seal. The washers concentrate the seal point to that very thin boundary.

    Do the right side first, you can change that in less than five minutes, after you get the inner fender out of the way.
     
  16. 2009KVFD976

    2009KVFD976 New Member

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    I have a 01 X 4WD V6 SOHC. mine rattles from the front of the engine, so im suspecting the primary chain guides/tensioner is weak... I do plan on replacing the water pump (removing the radiator for more clearance) which is the perfect time to do this as well as replace front crank seal and timing cover seal. my question to yall that have done this repair is

    1-how much of a pain in the nuts is this to do?
    2-can i just replace the guides/tensioners w/o the use of the timing tool IF the chains r good?
     
  17. 2000StreetRod

    2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    primary chain tensioner & guide

    The primary chain guide and tensioner can be replaced without removing the primary chain. Since you don't need to loosen the jackshaft sprocket bolt you won't need the timing tools. See: Timing chain rattle resolution process - SOHC V6
     
  18. elrynon

    elrynon Member

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    So it's only been about 2 months but I FINALLY got the time/chance to tear my engine apart and get these tensioners replaced (only a "slight" P.I.T.A.) Is it normal for the front tensioner to be locked into place? I mean the silver part that's suppose to compress/decompress. The new one I got I can move it in/out with my hand but the old one is locked in the out position. I even tried hitting it with a hammer (I know, I know. Probably stupid) but it didn't even budge.

    BTW, Don. I see what you were talking about with the almost non-existent washer. I almost thought it was just built up "crud" for a minute. Thanks for the heads-up on it.
     
  19. 2000StreetRod

    2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    hydraulic tensioner

    If you're referring to the left hydraulic/spring tensioner then no that's not normal. The piston should move within the cylinder bore when pressure is applied. If locked in the extended position there may be excess pressure on the guide assembly. If the guide assembly was broken causing slack in the chain for a long time then the piston would always be extended and could eventually stick in that position.
     
  20. Desert Goat Herd

    Desert Goat Herd New Member

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    Hey guys, I'm I going to have to worry about this problem on my 07 ranger or did Ford fix this problem by then? I didn't read the whole thread so I' sorry if this has been covered.
     
  21. Desert Goat Herd

    Desert Goat Herd New Member

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