Corroded Battery Terminal / Cable

[peterk9]

Does anyone know what causes this? I noticed a few threads where several people had to replace very corroded positive terminals and I just ordered a replacement for mine. It seems to accumulate a green substance that covers the entire terminal. I have been cleaning it off with baking soda. I removed the terminal but I do not see any leaking from the battery. Should I just replace the battery anyway?

Thanks in advance.

Thread merged with this existing one.
I doubt the battery needs to be replaced. Perhaps a mention of this issue to the dealer is in order or you can perform some preventive maintenance.
http://www.howtocleanstuff.net/is-it-safe-to-put-grease-on-your-car-battery’s-electrical-terminals/

Peter

 

[wharriso]

Thread merged with this existing one.
I doubt the battery needs to be replaced. Perhaps a mention of this issue to the dealer is in order or you can perform some preventive maintenance.
http://www.howtocleanstuff.net/is-it-safe-to-put-grease-on-your-car-battery’s-electrical-terminals/

Peter

Thanks for the info Peter. I have owned a lot of cars but I never saw anything like this, maybe its a result of mixed metals or something. I suspect the dealer already knew about this problem since the connector I have does not look like the MotorCraft replacement. When my new connector arrives I will try some lithium grease. Hopefully that will do the trick.

Thanks again.

 

[1995E]

Imo, the oem batteries have become very garbage. The battery that they put in the battery holders don't even fill up the whole size. You can buy a bigger battery and put it in there. After only 4 years, my battery went bad. Same with the Fusion, the battery got drained down and required a jump start after 4 years of ownership.

When my father bought a 95 Explorer, the battery lasted 12 years. Maybe that's an unrealistic expectation with all the electronics on these cars though.

 

[pnuticus]

Anyone have any suggestions on where to find a positive battery terminal/connector? I'm kicking myself for letting it get this bad. The part number looks like BB5T-14A003-CA, but not having much luck when searching for it.

 

[peterk9]

Anyone have any suggestions on where to find a positive battery terminal/connector? I'm kicking myself for letting it get this bad. The part number looks like BB5T-14A003-CA, but not having much luck when searching for it.

Your thread was merged with this existing one found using the handy 'Search' feature.
https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/?p=catalog&mode=search&search_in=all&search_str=battery cable

Peter

 

[pnuticus]

Your thread was merged with this existing one found using the handy 'Search' feature.

Thanks; forgot to search first

 

[luc]

seems to be the part you need
https://www.ebay.com/i/231361067047?chn=ps&dispItem=1

 

[pnuticus]

seems to be the part you need
https://www.ebay.com/i/231361067047?chn=ps&dispItem=1

Thanks, but not quite. The ebay link is reversed.

 

[wharriso]

This is really confusing. I have a 2016 Explorer Limited and this is what the positive terminal looks like, after a cleaned it up a little:

But the part everyone else seems to have looks like this:

I only have 2 wires going to the positive terminal. The one on the left is crimped on, and the the other is bolted on. That 100 amp fuse attaches to a big flat connector at the bottom but I can't figure out what wire is supposed to be fused. Should I just get a simpler battery terminal?

 

[peterk9]

This what the one on my 2017 Platinum looks like. Seems to be the same as yours only a little cleaner.

Peter

 

[Exit32]

I've been tinkering with cars for years and have grown tired of dealing with corroded battery terminals. This problem appears to be as common today as it was 50 years ago when I got my driver's license.

My theory is that battery-terminal corrosion is caused by sulfuric-acid vapor that escapes from the microscopic gap between the battery post and the battery case. Last year, I started sealing this gap on every new battery I buy for my cars, trucks, and tractors. I knew I needed a low-viscosity ("watery") fluid to ensure the sealer would flow into the small gap, and I ended up choosing a product called RapidFix UV Liquid Plastic Adhesive.

A few drops of this watery adhesive flows well between the battery posts and the battery case, and an ultraviolet light is used to quickly cure the adhesive. So far, I have not noticed a trace of corrosion on the two new batteries I've sealed with this method. I intend to continue sealing all my new batteries and will report back here if corrosion appears on any of the sealed batteries.

FWIW, Amazon sells the RapidFix UV Liquid Plastic Adhesive: http://a.co/an1MGLj

 

[wharriso]

I've been tinkering with cars for years and have grown tired of dealing with corroded battery terminals. This problem appears to be as common today as it was 50 years ago when I got my driver's license.

My theory is that battery-terminal corrosion is caused by sulfuric-acid vapor that escapes from the microscopic gap between the battery post and the battery case. Last year, I started sealing this gap on every new battery I buy for my cars, trucks, and tractors. I knew I needed a low-viscosity ("watery") fluid to ensure the sealer would flow into the small gap, and I ended up choosing a product called RapidFix UV Liquid Plastic Adhesive.

A few drops of this watery adhesive flows well between the battery posts and the battery case, and an ultraviolet light is used to quickly cure the adhesive. So far, I have not noticed a trace of corrosion on the two new batteries I've sealed with this method. I intend to continue sealing all my new batteries and will report back here if corrosion appears on any of the sealed batteries.

FWIW, Amazon sells the RapidFix UV Liquid Plastic Adhesive: http://a.co/an1MGLj

I know this is late but it seems that you have a point about the microscopic gap. I finally gave up trying to fix it myself and gave the problem to the dealer. They said the corrosion came from the battery (I could not see anything wrong with it myself). They replaced the entire harness and the battery, apparently the warranty covered both items.

But do you think that was the purpose of the felt washer that some batteries have around the terminals? It seems to me that those washers would isolate the wires from vapors or whatever else leaks from the battery.

 

[Exit32]

I know this is late but it seems that you have a point about the microscopic gap. I finally gave up trying to fix it myself and gave the problem to the dealer. They said the corrosion came from the battery (I could not see anything wrong with it myself). They replaced the entire harness and the battery, apparently the warranty covered both items.

But do you think that was the purpose of the felt washer that some batteries have around the terminals? It seems to me that those washers would isolate the wires from vapors or whatever else leaks from the battery.

Yes. Those felt washers are infused with a base (non-acidic) substance that serves to neutralize the sulfuric-acid vapor that escapes from the microscopic gap between the battery posts and the battery case. The washers also serve as a physical barrier between the battery and the terminals on the battery cables.

 

[Medic531]

So this is what my 2015 looks like -_-

Instead of cleaning I like replacing. Assuming I read this thread carefully enough I only need this one part from ford, DA8Z14526A, that includes both the assembly and the breaker?

 

[peterk9]

........Instead of cleaning I like replacing. Assuming I read this thread carefully enough I only need this one part from ford, DA8Z14526A, that includes both the assembly and the breaker?

It looks like that is what you need assuming the cable itself doesn't need to be replaced.
https://parts.levittownfordparts.co...ical-cat/battery-scat/?part_number=db5z14300a

Peter

 

[champco]

So this is what my 2015 looks like -_-

Instead of cleaning I like replacing. Assuming I read this thread carefully enough I only need this one part from ford, DA8Z14526A, that includes both the assembly and the breaker?

Get rid of that battery. Take it to it's source. prorate it. Replace it. Clean it up. That blue is copper oxidizing. Do not wait.

 

[Medic531]

Get rid of that battery. Take it to it's source. prorate it. Replace it. Clean it up. That blue is copper oxidizing. Do not wait.

The new part is ordered already just waiting for the dealer to get it in so I can get it faster. I will of course replace the battery as well. Any suggestions on particular types?

 

[kmac59]

My battery did this last month. Vehicle was running great.. pull into store, dead.

Jumped it and got home. Used hot water and baking soda to clean all. The corrosion had actually eaten the copper ring on the bracket. The battery had deformed, possibly from the Texas heat and leaked out of ++ post.

I replaced battery and need to order one of the copper rings in that complex connector (eBay). Ford wants over $300 for the positive battery connector or you can modify with another type clamp. There are video's of how others have avoided buying a whole new positive clamp from Ford.

Keith

 

[champco]

The new part is ordered already just waiting for the dealer to get it in so I can get it faster. I will of course replace the battery as well. Any suggestions on particular types?

I just replaced mine. Went to NAPA. Spent money for a better warranty and sacrificed a few CCA which this engine does not need.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBP7566?searchCategory=11.1&searchIndex=App

 

[DirtyHarry70585]

Hello all,

So on Friday night, we discovered that our Explorer's battery leaked and pretty much destroyed the positive battery terminal and assembly that fits over it. We had to buy a replacement, but that only seems to come as the whole assembly.

DB5Z-14300-A. It's msrp $300. All I needed was everything under the red cap.

So, if anybody needs this part, minus the + end distribution block, please let me know.

Same thing to wife's 2010 Mariner, $79 from rockauto but, I couldn't wait a week. So I cut the end assy off and put the clamp $8 on. I had to cut a cable tie for extra length. Still good two years later.